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Car lift Thinking about a 4 post car lift. It would be used infrequently. No room height wise to store one car over the other, just to lift the car up to stand or sit on a stool to work on the underside. (we're getting too old). I've been looking at options. Mainly my question is I see some that run off 120V. I don't have 220V in the garage, yet. Name brands are a bit too expensive. Cheapos are not. Limited budget. Any opinions are welcome.
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Re: Car lift I have a cheaper unit that is 120v. Has worked well for years and it gets used a lot.
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Re: Car lift Most all the 4 post lifts I have seen are 120 volt.
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Re: Car lift You might consider a scissor lift. I bought a used one for $300 to use in a garage with limited ceiling height and restored a 34 5 window on it. It was (and still is) a back saver. That and a low roll around stool from NAPA have been a good combination. Don't buy cheap! Used OK, cheap not OK.
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Re: Car lift You might consider a scissor lift. I bought a used one for $300 to use in a garage with limited ceiling height and restored a 34 5 window on it. It was (and still is) a back saver. That and a low roll around stool from NAPA have been a good combination. Don't buy cheap! Used OK, cheap not OK.
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Re: Car lift Not sure why you want a 220 unit, but if that's what you want go for it.
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Re: Car lift I have Atlas 4 post, 120 extended height. About 4 years old and am happy.
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Re: Car lift I have a 2 post I bought used off Facebook market place. My $ .02 worth IS 1) The most well known seller/Installer here In town i Contacted was a great source as he also sold used lifts when he had them, and installed them. Even though I didn’t buy mine through him, he went and disassembled mine, moved and re-installed mine for me for $400. 2). South of here is a company that deals in used car dealership “take outs” from dealership remodels, perhaps you manu research and fund one in your area?
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Re: Car lift I have kicked around the idea of a lift as well. The problem I've seen with used ones is that many are disassembled, laying in a pile outside. No way to know if the are complete or will work properly once assembled. The only way I would buy a used lift is if it was assembled and working so I could test it before buying. Lots of the ads say "worked fine when disassembled" which is right up there with "ran when parked".
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Re: Car lift I have a 4 post Benpak and I wired it 220. Speed raising is faster, they say twice as fast with the 220. I would not want it as 110 unless there was no option for this. I've had the lift about 3 years and love it.
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Re: Car lift Tom, I'm in the same boat age wise....can still craw under, but it's getting back out...and up again, that's the issue for me.
My dream for years was to have a lift. Finally, I found a sale on a four post Quality Lift, made in the USA. It can run on either 120v. or 220v. Since I have 220v in the garage for my welder, I added a circuit for the lift. Like Jerry Seery above, I use it quite a bit....maybe two or three times a week. Also, I've made some good friends in my neighborhood and helped them with their projects with all of us upright under the cars!! Don't have enough height to store cars stacked, but that's not a factor for me. The benefit of 220v. is that the lift runs faster going up....gravity coming down is the same!! The gentleman that installed mine has a business that services many of the commercial establishment in Tucson. From time to time, he has access to good used units...if I'd met him in the first place, think that's the way I would have gone. In any event, I feel blessed to have what I have...in so many ways!! Best of luck to you!!! |
Re: Car lift if your just using the lift to work on the car buy a two post with swing arms . a four post is much harder to adj brakes remove wheels for brake work greasing, oil change.
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Re: Car lift Did some looking, man have the prices gone up! Glad I purchased mine when I did, not sure but think it was around 20 years ago. In fact, my wife purchased it for me!! :)
To me the speed it go up is not a factor, but I'm old, and slow is normal. |
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Richard, you are absolutely right about a 4 post and working on wheels. I have to have something called a "jack bar" or tray that goes across the wheel tracks. I have to jack up the front or rear, depending where I'm working and put jack stands under the axle etc. to lift the wheel I'm working on. It does add to the process! All other work...oil changes, greasing, etc. is about the same re access to where you need to be. Here in AZ, they build using something called a "post tension" slab which means I have cables in the floor concrete that are under tension to keep the slab from cracking. You can't drill into this type to secure a lift, because if you sever a cable, it's like an explosion with shrapnel! Thankfully my four post doesn't need to be bolted down to be stable and safe. I think the two post lifts do need to be bolted to the floor....but not sure about this. |
Re: Car lift My neighbor has an old school single point lift I might be able to buy. I have space outside where I could install it. Does anybody have comments on using one of those. I know it would limit access to the central part of the car. Jim in San Jose.
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PITA if the develop a leak in the cylinder. |
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Re: Car lift Here's where I've been looking:
bestbuyautoequipment.com |
Re: Car lift I have two rolling jacks on mine and really helps with access but not as good a 2-post in that respect.
https://www.bendpak.com/car-lifts/4-post-bridge-jacks/ Glenn |
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Re: Car lift Do you REALLY want to work under a low price, probably imported, car lift with a 3000 pound-plus car on it ? I've had a BackYard Buddy lift for 25 years and have never had a problem with it, use it at least once or more a week and feel very comfortable working under it. I believe they still offer a power choice of 12v deep cycle battery, 120 or 240 volt ac.
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Re: Car lift I am in the same position as you are. I have pretty much settled on a "cheap imported" lift myself. The one I am looking at has good reviews, the main complaint being the poor quality of the installation instructions. That I can live with. If I can build a car from the ground up (including the frame and suspension), I think I can determine where the weak points are (if any) and correct them. I just can't see spending double the money for someone else's sense of security. The one I am looking at has a capacity of 8000 lbs; Anything I put on the lift will be less than half of that number.
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Re: Car lift I bought an Atlas two-post about five years ago. I picked it up at their warehouse and did the install myself. It’s one of the best equipment investments I’ve made. This year I bought one of their tire machines and I think their equip is worth the money. Next year I’m getting a four post for an adjacent building next to my shop for winter vehicle storage.
If your going to buy used I would strongly suggest buying from an “installer and dismantler” guy. I bought a used one piled on a trailer and it would have been a nightmare to put that puzzle back together. I got more for scrapping it than I paid for it. There are good used ones and junk new ones. Like what has been said, your life is under it. Be careful what you buy!!!.......Mark |
Re: Car lift I built a way of lifting the front of my car when using my four post lift.
I inverted my sliding jack tray and welded in some receiver tubes that fit the 1" threaded rod with a C channel welded to the top side, a large nut with two bolts welded to each side. Drive the car on the hoist, raise it about a foot, slide the jack tray with the upright threaded rod under the axel, raise the rod up until the C chanel contacts the axel and spin the nuts down to hold the unit up, them lower the hoist until the wheels are off the deck and then spin the nuts down to retain the hight. I usually just lift the wheels off the deck about 1 1/2". I would post pictures, but can't figure that part out. |
Re: Car lift Most the shops in town have Bendpak lifts and for some time they aren't USA made. Just saying.
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