Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Has anyone actually done this according to the shop manual?

Hi kids, So I've had the engine and transmission (side loader BTW)
out of my (basically stock) '47 Merc a few times. Each time, I did this by going out the front... once with engine and trans connected and twice with them separated. Other than some grunting and a few choice words, each procedure went fairly well. Now, I need to remove the transmission again. This is a running/driving car. Everything is neat and tidy in the engine compartment, so I thought I'd do what the shop manuals suggests and remove the torque tube, then remove the trans out the inside of the cabin. The torque tube came out easier than I expected. (How often does that happen?) Propping up the engine and disconnecting the trans bolts... no sweat. The rear saddle mount has been removed. Time to slide back the trans to clear the input shaft from the clutch... Problem! The trans housing/casting won't slide back far enough to clear the shaft... It hits the inside of the frame and/or top of the floorboard hump with the rear mount bosses. I need at least another 1/2 of rearward movement to clear... and it's just not there. I raised/lowered both the engine and trans numerous times and angles, and still can find the sweet spot where the trans can lift out? What am I missing? Has anyone actually done this successfully? (I assume 46-48 Ford is the same) Thanks.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I have done this many times on my 41 Ford. I think your car may have the same setup. Once you remove the floor cover for the transmission there is another small plate on the firewall just over the top housing of the transmission. It’s about 6” long and has a few screws to hold it in place. This should give you the 1/2” your looking for. It might be hidden under the inside fire wall cover.


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Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Hi Bursonaw, I forgot to mention that I have already removed that plate. It still didn't give me enough room.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I'll also add that I had a couple friends over at the time who also own, and have built flathead coupes, although older '34-'36. None had done this procedure as written in the shop manual and and none of us could figure this method out. We had people on top and underneath with bright LEDs blazing and the consensus was either fagetaboutit or start over and go out the front, or contact this forum.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

The only thing I can think of and it sounds like you may have done this. I use a scissors jack under the oil pan and lift the engine up to where the transmission housing is almost touching the firewall before I slide it out. I’ve loosened the front motor mounts as not to cause to much stress on the front engine mounts.


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Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Yup... did that... even went past the firewall to see what would happen on the rear side, knowing that I'd have to lower the engine again to get the housing to clear the firewall. I didn't think Mercs were different than Fords from the firewall back. I only thought they were longer from the firewall forward. But now I'm wondering if something in that crossmember is in a different location, and all the "Ford" manuals are really just for Ford.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Good luck, if you find the magic formula I would be interested in the result. Sorry I could not be of further help.


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Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Bursonaw, thanks for your attempt anyway. I appreciate it.

Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

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Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

well, i am not a 47 merc guy, but i wonder how you get the torque tube out with out moving the rear end back? and, if you only need a 1/2", cant you rotate the trans so the bottom sump area is not hitting the x member? , like, 90* to the right? never been there, just some thoughts

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

If its anything like my 35 pickup you have to install the rear mount [bearing retainer] after . But I think you've done that..??

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

After sliding the trans back,
You may have to twist the transmission to the right to clear the crossmember.
Then you can remove the trans.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Slowforty, I think that might be it. I just came in from the garage after staring at this again... by myself... no other distractions, and I came to the same conclusion that if the engine/trans is jacked way up as far as it can go yet clear the firewall, then I pull back and rotate the trans housing (I'm thinking counter clockwise from inside the car to clear the side shift levers) that it could just work. So that's the next plan, when I can go work on it again.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

cas3... YES, you have the right idea too! I'm going to try it hopefully tomorrow. The torque tube, dif, rear axle, springs, are all one unit. After disconnecting things like shocks, sway bar, brakes etc, then I placed a set of old rims on to protect the drums, unbolted the leaf springs and with a few tugs, it drops down and slides right back. I moved it about 8" which is more than enough to make room up front.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I'm probably not a ton of help here, but I took the transmission out of my '47 Ford through the top after I pulled the rear about fifteen years ago. I don't recall there really being any problem, maybe just need to come back fresh and keep wiggling it.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I had a 48 Merc back in 57 or 58, Those Cluster gears were a little fraggle so I had to replace my Trans a few times. If I remember right I took it out from the bottom and put it back the same way. I use to drop it, well not drop it, bring it down and rest it on my chest and belly, did the reverse putting one back in.. I supported the car up high enough to roll the rear end assy back. Reverse things to go back in. I sure couldn't do that today. It was cheaper to buy a complete used Trans than a new Cluster Gear. Think I was paying $12-$15 and the junk yard removed it.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

AN UPDATE (but not what we wanted to hear)

So a few more hours were spent on this 10 minute job today. The consensus from all three knuckleheads in attendance, is that it can't be done according to the manual.
Marvin/TN – In order to go out the bottom, the wishbone would need to be dropped, and even then it won't work on this old Merc.
We managed to rotate the trans well over 90° both right and left which indeed gave us hope, but still we needed 1/4"-1/2" more travel to have the input shaft clear the pressure plate, at any angle... this is with the housing hitting the backside of the chassis and then some.
Now, during the time I have my face smashed up against the trans housing from under the car... and attempting to peer into the gap between engine and trans with flashlights blazing in all directions (mostly in my eyes) I became aware of one possible cause for this snag. The clutch and pressure plate had been replaced previously. I'm wondering if the pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch is just "thicker" enough that the input shaft won't clear. Perhaps a stock '47 Ford part pressure plate is just thin enough that the shaft can squeeze out. This is speculation until I can call them tomorrow. And let me be clear... I have had nothing but great experience from Fort Wayne Clutch... those guys are awesome. So if it turns out to be the pressure plate, it's on me for not being able to predict the future.
Stay tuned for a possible update.

Unrelated: For Sale: 1947 Mercury, partially disassembled... new clutch and pressure plate from Fort Wayne Clutch... torque tube and several flash lights, sold separately.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

The last time that I did this on a 1947 Mercury was in 1952, so I don't remember everything I did. The engine has to be jacked up enough to allow the back of the transmission to clear the floor pan hump for the torque tube. The back end of the trans has to be inside the car before the input shaft will clear the clutch.



Post some photos showing your problem areas if you cannot slide the trans back inside the car.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Mystery solved: I slept on it. Then I got up this morning, and with only one cup of coffee (it usually takes 3) went out to the garage to take some measurements. Taking measurements from another flathead block with stock clutch attached, that pressure plate protrudes 7/8” into the trans housing. The Pressure plate I got from Fort Wayne Clutch protrudes 1 1/4” into the trans housing. And that my friends, is the 3/8” difference that I needed to clear everything. Not an issue if everything comes out the front. Mystery solved. Now, where did I put my left handed radiator wrench?

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

So, although it may end-up being somewhat awkward to handle, shouldn't you be able to reach each of the six pressure plate bolts and remove as you turn the flywheel over for access? This would leave the P-plate kind of dangling on the transmission input shaft as you pull the trans rearward and upward, but it should now give you the room you need. And put a NEW, less cumbersome clutch on that thing before replacing the trans, eh? GOOD detective work! DD

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

V8COOPMAN, I like how you think... certainly something to seriously consider. Since my exhaust is already unhooked, another option (with more steps) is to remove h2o hoses and the fan assembly (leave the radiator) and remove front engine mount bolts, then with a cradle, just move the engine forward an inch. Removing the trans is only one part of this. It all has to go back together at some point too. So putting pressure plate back on in reverse order? Hmmmm...

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I would probably move the engine forward, Watch out for the radiator
Then you dont have to fool with the clutch.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

That's why I suggested a NEW (different) clutch, so that next time, it comes out like it should. With trans out of the way, easy clutch bolt-up to flywheel. But, what do I know? DD

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Well, V8COOPMAN, that makes a lot of sense. But where's the fun in that?:D

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Slowforty – Yeah, to me it's 6 of one and...
Hey, is it 5:00 somewhere?
:D

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

did you disconnect the flex brake line on the torque tube, so you can move the torque tube back further. also replace the flex line with a longer one . so next time you wont have to bleed the brakes

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

slowforty... the torque tube wasn't an issue at all. It came out easy. But I might look into your idea of making the flex line a little longer... even though I hope I won't have to do this again.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Well, justanotherguy, that makes a lot of sense. But where's the fun in that?

DD

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I know that these Videos refer in particular to the Model A Ford, nevertheless, they are very educational and could be helpful to early Ford V8 guys. In these Videos, the owner removes the rear end to allow the transmission to be removed. Check them out.

#1.........https://youtu.be/RPzUwu3Jf5Y

#2.........https://youtu.be/_ZNVWUrvAcY

#3.........https://youtu.be/XYVHcLX1qXY

#4.........https://youtu.be/rVC-fSBe4WM

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Ha! Okay, first laugh of the day! :) You got me! Not sure when I can get back on this project again. A lot has to be done before I can "slide" the engine forward an inch, including make room for a hoist in front of the car. Think giant Rubik's Cube.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

slide the engine forward an inch.... I'm having trouble with this. I realize you've tried everything possible, but it sure seems like moving the engine forward should NOT be necessary. I've had the transmission out of my 47 Ford, three times in the last 18 years. Never had to move the engine. I realize a Ford is not a Mercury, but still, are they that different? All I recall at this point, I removed the ujoint and rear bearing retainer (trans mount). I think one time I removed the side cover (shifter cover), although I don't think this was necessary. I also dropped the front wishbone, forcing it down with a 2x4 between the wishbone and the frame. It's been quite awhile, and my memory fades, so if there were 'tricks', I seem to have forgotten. The Motor Manual for 40-48 Mercury makes no big deal of trans removal. Quoting.."Unfasten the transmission from the engine and lift it out." The Ford Motor Company publication 3606-42-48, Ford, Lincoln & Mercury Service Manual, 1942-1948, dated August 15, 1948, states essentially what I've posted here, with no further 'tricks'. Something I'm not catching about your problem. My best wishes / good luck.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

You must have missed "THE SOLUTION" back in post #19, which I've quoted BELOW. DD
__________________________________________________ ___

"Mystery solved: I slept on it. Then I got up this morning, and with only one cup of coffee (it usually takes 3) went out to the garage to take some measurements. Taking measurements from another flathead block with stock clutch attached, that pressure plate protrudes 7/8” into the trans housing. The Pressure plate I got from Fort Wayne Clutch protrudes 1 1/4” into the trans housing. And that my friends, is the 3/8” difference that I needed to clear everything. Not an issue if everything comes out the front. Mystery solved."




........

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Update: IT'S OUT! So, after attempting to disconnect the U-joint with some wobblies and a socket (doesn't work very well) I realized that I could link my 2 long 3/8" ratchet extensions together (resulting in probably a 16-18" reach) and go through the rear of the X member, then all the way through to the bolt in the center of the U-joint. It works really well. After the U-joint was out, the 6 bolts of the rear mount (or bearing retainer) came out along with the retainer casting just as easy. This gave me ample room to lift the trans out inside the car. Of course everything was propped up nice and secure before all this. Thank you all for your suggestions, including Talkwench who, way back this thread, mentioned removing the bearing retainer right there in plain English. I guess, I had a mental block on that, since it isn't mentioned in the shop manual... and wouldn't have been necessary if my pressure plate was stock. Anyway, thanks everyone!

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Years ago, I bought a 24" long 3/8" extension from Sears. It has been one of the handiest tools I have.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

You know, this might be a good topic for a new thread...."What Is Your Favorite Tool?" You run with that, Denny!

My favorite tool is without doubt an old X-Cell brand screwdriver that is approximately 2 ft. long. I've owned it near forty years now. It has a 'straight point' (flat tip) that is about 1/2" wide, and the long shank leading down to that tip is probably about 7/16" square in shape, just right to get a wrench on if necessary. And the handle is a big, 'manly' yellow-grooved plastic for a good grip, and it has a carry-through metal flat on the end of the handle making it fit to hammer on. It'll undo any screw that is "undo-able", and it makes one hell of a prybar, even though I have a variety of dedicated pry bars. This screw driver just works and feels great doing many jobs. DD

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Quick update: The old Merc is back on the road! Thanks again everyone. The trans went in the same way it came out and now I'm a believer that removing the torque tube is much easier than it initially seemed. I also took the advantage of it being out to run new brake lines on the rear (it has a dual MC and the front lines are good). So now I'm doing shake down runs around town. It runs great, seems to shift well, but It looks and handles like a fat turd... a lot of body roll, and it already has a sway bar and Panhard bars. Maybe I'll give Posies some money. I'm thinking if I tackle the suspension issues, this will warrant a new thread.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Be sure to remove the rubber biscuits between the floor board and the frame if there are any. This will allow you to use wooden door stop shaped wedges to raise the floor pans upward. Just an idea. These pictures are of a 40 ford but perhaps it will help.

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

I smile when I read this Thread. It takes me back to the 60's when old fords were cheap and I had many. Our solution to getting the trans out through the top was to cut 2-3 inch x 8-9 inches long section out of the floor board just behind the trans. How many floor boards we ruined I have no idea but luckily I have not run into them when purchasing restored or restorable cars subsequent and current years.

Frederic

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

Quick Question ? Are you dealing with a 9 inch or larger clutch plate ? I know back in the mid 50s on my Merc convt. I changed many transmissions . Do not remember having that much trouble!

Re: Removing transmission 1947 Mercury
 

@Kerk, Yes, I'd have to check my notes for exactness, but the plate is just over 10"... and a little thicker (deeper) than stock. I like to create my own problems ;)
But it's shifting well now, that's the main thing.