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Engine Stand I'm getting ready to pull my engine and I want to be sure that I have my engine stand properly set up. What do folks use as an adapter to hold the engine on the stand. Must be able to pull head and pan while it's on the stand. Pictures would be great!! Thanks!!
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Re: Engine Stand Get the engine stand adapter sold my Snyder's or any of the other Model A supply houses. It bolts in place of the water inlet on the side of the block. It's the best in my opinion.
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For a "running" stand you'll need something else - possibly the frame of your Model A. Joe K |
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I made one from a junk model A frame that I had . i I cut the frame in two , just behind the center crossmember and installed legs . I can use this stand to test run an engine or use it to bolt fenders on when welding up cracks and straightening . It comes in very handy , especially with fender work . I would never cut up a good frame for this purpose !!! The frame that I used was already rusted in two on one side and rusted worse that I would want to use on any of my cars on the other side . I have one of the modern style engine stands that I use when doing engine overhauls . |
Re: Engine Stand I used a Harbor Freight engine stand, straight out of the box, no mods or adapters needed. Works good, can flip the engine upside down easily.
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This handy little adapter made by Bill Stipe and available from most of the vendors adapts to most any engine stand.
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Re: Engine Stand Thanks for the info!!!
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Re: Engine Stand Don't try to leave the flywheel and f/w housing on and mount to the housing in the conventional way. You can remove these and grab the back of the block but most all prefer the side mount way and that's how the original stands worked.
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Re: Engine Stand 100IH - Yes, Thanks! I get it! V8 folks have the same issue. That's why I asked the question - I just didn't know how to do the side mount. With the side mount I should be able to leave clutch and flywheel on - right? I would leave the flywheel housing still assembled in the car waiting to receive the engine when replaced.
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Re: Engine Stand With the side-mount the engine will be SERIOUSLY overweighted with the flywheel on.
You can do it - but there may be no "mechanical advantage" for rotating the engine, other than the bar they give you with the original engine dolly, which your particular "adapter" may or may not be drilled for. You may find you fight it all the way around doing the "flip" even without a flywheel. I made my own side plate. This is possible since my particular engine dolly is based on a 2" pipe rotating part. I drilled holes at 90 degree intervals (4 holes) for a locking pin but so far have used only two of the four holes since one rarely needs flywheel or timing gear "up." Looking to get it in service FAST I didn't create a means to "bar" the engine in the flip - but later (and wisely) added them to use the original "turn bar" for this. If you remove the flywheel, be sure to "mark" the orientation of the flywheel relative to the crank flange. Many rebuilders balance the crank, and the flywheel can be a big part of this so you want to maintain that orientation. Joe K |
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David Serrano |
Re: Engine Stand I've got a Harbor freight engine stand and it can be connected to the rear of the engine . I use the engine stand adapter pictured in post number 6 that connects to the side water inlet . It works well and the engine can easily turned upside down .
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Re: Engine Stand I don't want to hijack this thread, but I use a Stipe type engine stand bracket, and I have a B engine with a Miller head. I am concerned that the weight of this engine (I want to avoid pulling the head) will be too heavy for this engine stand. I have visions of breaking off the pan flange. I need to redo the Burtz seal I have on the rear of the crankshaft, and I want to disassemble as little of the engine as possible. I think I need to polish the area where the slinger was a lot better or at least make sure that the drain back tube has nothing blocking the flow. Am I too squeamish about doing damage to the engine? I have over 10K in this engine, but the leak is really bothering me.
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I put a worm drive gear reducer on my engine stand to make it easier for my bad back:
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Re: Engine Stand Very clever!!
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Bill Gonefishing |
Re: Engine Stand Build your own side mount and save a bundle.
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Bill |
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https://i.imgur.com/OFNMLmI.jpg?1 |
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Re: Engine Stand i have the stock cast iron one, but haven't weighed it. It is very heavy though. Probably more than the stock flywheel.
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Re: Engine Stand I made my own adapter for the side of the engine partly due to having the heavier HF engine stand. The pipe size is bigger for the rotating piece.
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I remember you traveled a LOOOONG way to a machine shop. Glad you have a Harbor Freight Store, near you. I HATE folks that criticise them!!! Look at their website, they have more stuff than you can wave a stick at! Bill W. |
Re: Engine Stand With the flywheel and housing in place the side mounted engine balances quite well. That is how they were set up on the KR Wilson stands. Easy to rotate
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Re: Engine Stand Railcarmover - Thanks for the picture!!!
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Re: Engine Stand |
Re: Engine Stand It does not get much simpler than this
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Re: Engine Stand Oh nooooo Bill. Never sell your welder. I would consider getting rid of my dog before my welder.
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Re: Engine Stand DD931; I believe you stated you wanted to leave the head and oil pan on the engine when you mount it to the engine stand. The side mount adapter is bolted to the engine using the water inlet and two bolts on the oil pan. If you use the side adapter, you'll have to remove the oil pan BEFORE you mount the engine to the engine stand. If you remove the flywheel and flywheel housing, you can use the rear of the engine to mount the engine onto the stand. Use the top two bolt holes(where the shims go) and the lower two flywheel housing bolt holes to mount to the engine stand. This lowers the engine so the center of rotation is nearer the engine's center of gravity. You can do all your disassembly and assembly with the engine mounted this way. But you'll have to dismount it to add the flywheel housing and flywheel again.
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Re: Engine Stand You don’t have to remove the pan, only the two bolts where the engine mount goes.
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Re: Engine Stand CarlG: how are you going to remove the oil pan after you mount the engine on the stand using the side mount adapter?
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Re: Engine Stand The two bolts that use the pan rail do not need nuts. You can use dowels for this. I had a local welding/fabricator shear and bend my adaptor plate. I had a template for them to use. I welded the two bolts to the plate and drilled the two water inlet holes as well as four holes to bolt the plate to my engine stand. I bolted the adapter directly to the stand face thus eliminating having to deal with fabricating a pipe.
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Re: Engine Stand Anyone who does this daily would put a drain pan under the drain plugs first thing and let it drip right up until time to mount the sling and lift the block out. then set it down a cart or on the floor for removing clutch and flywheel and then F/W housing. Then mount the adapter (you can remove the bolts that are in the way at the pan rail). Then up to mount on the stand.
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Re: Engine Stand Eagle, what stand is this?
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