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56 T-bird rebuild I recently acuired my dad's T-bird and I'm just starting to undo the carnage. I have rebuilt the teapot on it and changed the plugs and wiing. I have to replace the vacuum lines to the distributor. There was a solid piece of brake line running to the distributor from the intake vacuum port. That makes it almost impossible to move the distributor. Anyone using flexible tubing instead?https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y8P...w?usp=drivesdk
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 3 Attachment(s)
Steel line is original. There should be two of them, with special fittings on the ends.
When the distributor is installed in the correct position it doesn't need to move much to set the timing. The steel lines are reproduced, part # 12370-BL A sturdy fuel rated hose could be used if you have correct fittings for attaching it at the ends. |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild The one to the carb side has already been replaced with a flexible one. The manifold vacuum line has to be in place to adjust the timing, correct?
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild The second line runs from the advance unit to a fitting in the back of the carb, not the manifold. Usually when adjusting the distributor, the lines are disconnected and plugged. When the timing is set, the lines are bent to reconnect them.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Quote:
The '55 Shop Manual I have with instructions for a similar distributor, but with one vacuum line, says to disconnect and plug the line. If the dual vacuum canister isn't fully functional the timing won't advance properly, if at all, and the engine can be damaged. see this link... https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/Crac...stManifold.php . |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild When you set the timing the vacuum lines (both) need to be disconnected at the distributor and then plug the ends. If you have to turn the distributor a little bit to set the timing, then you have to bend the line slightly to reinstall them.
Sal |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Thanks.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._175808799.jpg
Anyone know what the port is at the bottom of the intake just to the left of the mounting bolt? |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Most choke heaters have 2 tubes, one is manifold heat and the other is sort of a vent.
I believe that is the vent tube. When it's running, see if you have vacuum there. I don't think the choke vent has vacuum. |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild That is the original location for the heat riser tube that goes to the choke.
The existing line you have for the choke which goes over the valve cover and to an orifice on the exhaust manifold is not the original path. It will work properly in the modified fashion that way but it tells me that you possibly have a non original right side exhaust manifold or one that has been modified. There would have been a brass 90* elbow connected to the shown intake manifold orifice and then a short tube with a coupling at the carb side run to the carb choke. Oldmics |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Any harm in it being open?
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I don't really see any harm with it open. The heat that will escape from the opening could lead to a slightly higher air temperature underhood and the paint will always be burnt off around the orifice. Could block it off with a metal plug if your concerned. Oldmics |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 3 Attachment(s)
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If it's open it's not a problem unless the tube is rusted thru inside the exh crossover. Exhaust will leak out both ends and it would be better if they are plugged. |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Yotehunter66,
Hope you did a good job on the Teapot carb you rebuilt. Looks pretty dirty, unless you rebuilt it a long time ago. Might need a new secondary diaphragm too. Looks like the frayed edge of it sticking out. Sal |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild It's been cleaned and rebuilt. Doesn't mean it's right though. I put a kit in it about a month ago.I don't recall changing any secondary diaphragm. There is a lot to do on it. It was my dad's project put due to his age and health he hasn't been able to work on it over the last ten years or so.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Electronic ignition is in it now. Is there a set gap between the pick up and the plastic piece that goes over the distributor cam lobes?
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._141010345.jpg |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild If I remember correctly, there should be a set gap. It should have been specified in the kit for the Electronic ign. system. do not use a regular feeler gauge when setting the gap between the pick-up coil and the reluctor. There are special brass feeler gauges for this purpose. They can be bought at most tool dealers, or parts stores.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Yeah I read that somewhere. I need to figure out who made this one.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Set the gap at .030" Should be close
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Who's the teapot guru on here if I need to get it rebuilt?
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Sal"s the man for teapots. Contact scacala thru a P.M. and as a plus he"s in your neck of the woods !
Oldmics |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Quote:
I can hep you with whatever you need for your teapot carb. I've been doing them for a long time. Sal Cicala [email protected] (586) 612-1650. |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Email sent.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild I pulled the carb back off and noticed that the gasket lines up with with one of the small holes over one of the vacuum passages. The gasket came with the kit but is it the right one?
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...705196_HDR.jpg http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c...655573_HDR.jpg |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Yes, that gasket will work OK. To make the kits universal, they put in larger bore holes so it would also work on the '56 Lincoln teapot which had larger throttle bores.
I got your email and replied just now. Sal |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Getting ready to pull the timing cover off to check the alignment. I've read about the 12 links between the marks. Anything else I should look for. Chain is new but my dad thinks he timed it like any normal engine. Twelve pins I should say. Not links.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 1 Attachment(s)
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And if you accidentally think this timing chain position has anything to do with cyl #1 being at TDC Don't let it confuse you, because it doesn't. see attached image |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Noticed that the oil pan bolts to the timing cover. What a PITA!
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 1 Attachment(s)
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-THIS IS WHAT YOU WILL SEE - |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Finally got the timing cover off. I have the rotor pointing at #1 spark plug wire and this is where the timing marks are currently.
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._175538275.jpg http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._175555749.jpg |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild It looks like your not getting any ignition advance with no vacuum lines to the distributor. The one port on the diaphragm appears to have the threads stripped too.
Sal |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 1 Attachment(s)
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With the spark plugs out, use the damper pulley bolt to rotate the crankshaft until the keyway and timing mark on the crank gear are in the correct position, see attached image, then look for the timing mark on the cam gear. Looking at your 2nd photo, you may need to rotate the crankshaft another full turn. It should match the diagram, if it doesn't that's a problem to fix. |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild Are you sure the timing chain is new? It looks a bit loose in this photo.
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Re: 56 T-bird rebuild 1 Attachment(s)
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Try this one- |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild You gotta watch this-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b1Z2L9pgMXU He's almost as old and ugly as me ... :o |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild The only thing he said wrong in the video is that there were 12 links on the timing chain between the two dots on the gears. It's actually 12 pins (not links). It makes a difference.
Sal |
Re: 56 T-bird rebuild He said he changed it but it definately has a lot of slop in it. So when the timing marks are in the proper position where should I expect the rotor to be pointing? Are the marks not TDC for #1 cylinder?
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