Tool advice
 

I need suggestions and help on the best tool to remove stabilizer links in shock links on my 47 Ford. I had a couple of tools that are used in the past for popping ball joints, but it doesn’t cut it on this one because these link heads are too narrow. Does anyone have any suggestions for the best tool for the job?

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Ultimately, only a BFH worked. Since mine were not going to be reused, cutting them made removing them a bit easier.

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I have never failed to get them off with a big hammer. Might need to put the sway bar in a vice to get a solid hit on it, after removing the end attached to the axle.


A little heat can do a world of good also.

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Hammer or any heavy steel on one side of the loop diameter and hit with hammer on the other side of the loop diameter.

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Common tie rod end removal tool worked like a champ on the rusted shock links on my '41.

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51 Merc has it right. Because this is a taper, it's best to strike the side of the joint. Use a BFH on the other side to hold it against the blow. Perhaps you can use the tool shown above by drolston at the same time. The extra force certainly won't hurt. I know it seems that beating on the threaded end should do it, but many years of experience by many mechanics support the strategy of getting a good hit on the side. And, it's very important to have a big heavy thing (BFH/5 lb maul) on the opposite side to beat against.

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What 51merc & DD931 said.

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X 2

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I remember the first time I was shown how to do this. It was in a salvage yard, trying to remove a tie-rod. The owner came over and said, let me show you how to do that, a young me in my early teens.

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Son of a gun. Never too old to learn a new trick!

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What website is that tool on?

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I tried striking the side and it didn't budge. My car I'm assuming was a barn find before I got it and I think these links have been in the car since the 50's.

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You need to hit it hard enough to distort the female part momentarily. Backing up the hammer with a HEAVY piece of iron on the other side is key.

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Just striking the side is not enough, there has to be a suitable heavy steel hammer or block of steel held against the opposite side while striking.

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A pickle fork has always worked for me.

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To add to what others have posted, sometimes on really stubborn ones, a little heat helps. It is a bit on an art to figure out how this works, but you will get it.

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I've seen this method of shock link removeal mentioned here many times, and others usually chime in to say "yeah, x2, that's the way I do it", etc., but I've never seen this method demonstrated, or at lest a picture showing how/where a piece of heavy steel is placed, and how/where the other side is struck with a big hammer, and exactly what is considered to be "the loop diameter". Apparently, rustedjunk didn't fully understand this explanation either, since he wasn't able to make it work.
I think it would be very helpful if someone could post some pictures here showing exactly how this is done. Or if there is a previous post that demonstrates this, please post a link to that.

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Me too. No distorted hole after you get done and wondering why a new tapered part doesn't seat.

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Oh, Yee of little faith!! I have done this a number of times myself on a Model A when I was about 60 years younger. The socket (called "loop" by 51 Merc) is the part that the taper fits into. It is a forged part and will distort a small amount when struck to "spit" the taper out, but is elastic enough to return to its proper shape. Never a problem putting a new taper in. The secret is to have a big solid piece of steel - I like a five pound mall - on the opposite side. You do not want the part being hit to move. That's why you need the inertia of the heavy BFH on the backside while you hit it with another BFH on the front. And yes, heat never hurts.

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I have used a small track rod end tool like pictured above, successfully. I have also used the two big hammers method less successfully.

I wonder, though, how one would tackle a 37-40 type rear shock link where it attaches to the rear spring perch.

You can't really get both sides of the hole for the hammers, the tool won't fit, so I suppose it would come down to the back the nut off and give it a good whack with a hammer, or a pickle fork tool.

If I were to use the hit the nut directly type technique I would try and find an acorn nut or closed end lugnut so I could hit it without hitting the threads.

Mart.

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Possibly, this picture may help clear-up the "two hammer" method. The "loop" is the tapered female part in the equation. Don't be afraid to whang the piss out of it with your "hammer-hitting" technique. DD


https://cdn.instructables.com/F4M/WQ...webp&width=933

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That is never a problem. The distortion is momentary. Never any residual change to the taper.
Also, it saves the cup seal from ruin you will get with a pickle fork.

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I got them out, but it took some heat to do it. I had to pound them out by hitting the stud. The parts were almost 60+ years old based on the condition.

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8 I don't recall ever needing to use heat to remove the tapered shafts of a shock link, based on using the method I described in my previous post on this thread, but then maybe I've just been lucky all these years of owning and working on early Fords ;)

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Thanks for the photo V8COOPMAN. Replacing the shock links is on my '36 coupe to-do list. It looks like fun, so I might even move it to the top of the list.

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Just Google Tie Rod End Tool. Available many places.

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The idea of the hammers is great, but often times there is not enough room to swing. This is what I have been using for years for Ford tapered seats like tie-rod ends, shock links and stabilizer connectors. This is a KD 3916, ball joint separator available through multiple sources like Sears, Amazon etc. Works every time, often with an assist from the blue wrench. For all the use I have given it, for $25., it has be the best tool money I ever spent.

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ttps://www.ebay.com/itm/Pickle-Fork-Set-including-Air-Hammer-Adapter/352342068517?hash=item5209394d25:g:jRMAAOSwWxNatu4 A
Here is a tool that sometimes works for me.
Bruce

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I've had good luck placing a block of wood between the frame and the link. loosen the bolt a turn or two and smack the stud . they usually pop loose. I also coat the taper with anti-seize when reassembling.