Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

Hey Guy's

I'm installing Rear Float-a-Motor Mount's,, … well I WAS, and wondering why these simple part's cannot be made correctly OR … well someone else might have a better idea than I.

Mounts on the bottom of the inside frame rail, angle forward, all parts are as per instructions, … NOPE, … FAIL, … All bolt holes are to high. Look at the pictures, it's the same on both sides.

SO, … what are the options?

a. Wonder why the heck 3 simple holes cannot be drilled correctly.
b. Modify the Parts to fit.
c. Modify all the holes in the frame and mounting plates on an 87 year old car.
d. Call up CW Moss and ask them what's up?

Regards
Bill

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

The answer is d.....Call them in the morning for sure....

Something obviously isn't right. I would not start drilling....

I put a set on from Bert's and they fit fine...

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

I received float-a-motor from santa this year, to cold to install, will be watching this tread to see what happens.
Have not looked in the box yet, now I just hope I can sleep.

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Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

The rubber part that goes between the frame and the Float a motor should be L shaped (A-5092). The same piece as used for original motor mounts. This will raise the FAM and the holes should line up

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

YUP the answer is "D".

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

There is only 1 rubber pad between the FAM outer plate and frame, no rubber pad inside the frame as shown in Brattons new redesigned kit, which fits very well. The key to the design are the new donuts ,which probably should be replaced every 5 years or so. One should compare all the vendors' kits to select a preference.

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

I read this post a couple times before I realized what Duke suggested. I've owned my car for about 25 years and it was restored MANY years before me. It has the Float-a-motor and I've never touched the donuts. Will new ones make a difference? And how so?
Marty

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

Good orginal motor mounts. 90 years, if there not broken why fix them?

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

Have FAM in two cars replaced the rubber last year after 18 and 14 years respectfully. Old rubber was harder than a hocky puck! Well worth it to use new rubber.

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c) is NOT an option. If you modify the part then the warranty is null and void. If you enlarge the holes in your frame then that is a can of worms best left unopened.

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

I saw an OUTHOUSE, with SQUARE HOLES! I "guess" the builder didn't take GEOMETRY???
Bill Uncomfortable

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

That's an interesting lower bracket.
https://i.imgur.com/8dtQUj4.jpg?1


earlier ones had a mild steel bracket and the aluminum donut holder.

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I wonder what he did?

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Well, Railcarmover started me to thinking about the Float-A-Motor on my car. As near as I can determine it was restored more than 45 years ago. I can's even see the rubber donuts and the cap on the top is printed ANTIQUE and Rosemead, Calif. Does that make any sense to anyone?
Marty

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

That one is a first for me.All the directions I've seen say the lower bracket mounts directly to the frame,NO rubber on the inside.You did use the rubber between the outside plate and the frame though.I have a set on a truck that that was parked with them in it in 1954,when my uncle went in the service.Those are all steel,no aluminum.I had a bunch or partial sets of rubbers around because I had to buy a whole set and rob just the outside piece.Somewhere along the line at least one of the vendors started selling just the outside piece for people who were using floaters.

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this is no help , but I found putting in new ones can be a chore . mine have no problem going in & out . the set that was so much work were new ones on another car . I had to use a punch the get the holes to line up . lots of patience & reading the instructions often .
good luck

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I used some longer bolts then the one supplied, once I got the bolt thru the mount and frame, and the washer and nut on I tightened them up and everything went together as designed.
I found the supplied bolts to be about 1/4 inch to short for ease of installation.

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have a set with Rosemead Antique printed on them. Just replaced the rubber pads. Took 45 minutes with no issues. The old pads were hard as rocks and 1/8 inch compressed.

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Antique and Rosemead are indications of manufacture by Jim Gordon at Antique Auto Parts in Rosemead California. He is located on Garvey Avenue. Jim seems to be a great guy. Hi father in law was Gene Schott (ol Flathead) I believe.

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This thread was started Jan. 1, 2018. Surely there has been some resolution. Anyone know?

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Daveymc29 and midgetracer,
Thanks to both of you for the info. I took my FAM's apart yesterday and found the rubber donuts. I'm going to Snyder's tomorrow to get the replacements. As far as resolution to this post, I learned a lot and am going to fix mine. I guess everyone gets out of these posts what they want.
Marty

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

The information on Ford Barn seems endless and is also priceless. Most of the info here is based on experience; that is the best kind.

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

I just purchased a car with fam it has a bad vibration. Can you see the rubber plate on the outside of the frame after it is installed? I think it may have been left out.

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Yes you can.

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I am installing the engine after installing a gasket between the rear of the block and the flywheel cover, fixing a big oil leak. The FAM that I am installing on a 1930 Coupe came from Mac's Antique Auto parts and took me many hours to remove the old and install the new. The motor now is too high and the throttle mechanism is touching the firewall. I may shave off some of the rubber disk to reduce the the height.

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Check to make sure they are installed properly. There is TOP molded in the part that bolts to the flywheel housing.

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Installed FAM’s in my 31 Coupe about 3 years ago. Likely from Snyder’s. No problems in my case.

Re: Rear Float-a-Motor Mount Install Issue
 

Antique in Rosemead was one of the earlier vendors along with JC whitney before others hit the scene. They had a bunch of original parts available also, back in the '70's. Imo, the new FAMS made of steel or iron are less prone to fatigue than the alum. The donuts need to be replaced when hard,and adjusted as per many posts on the BARN which can take many tries to suit ones engine. Firm but not rock hard and no donut bulge. The crossmember support is essential to keep the drive line aligned, even on cars with F150 trannies which needs a special yoke at the tranny support..

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Don't accept a misaligned motor mount issue on account that you dont hand crank the car.If the crank bearing (crank hole) doesnt align with the crankshaft your drive shaft is out of alignment as well.The ujoint will accommodate the misalignment,with a potential cost of increased vibration and wear.

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In my case the crank bearing misalignment was caused by the front motor mount.

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I had the same problem wit the ones I got from MACS. Drilled new holes.