Toein
 

How does a car drive with too much toein, I mean like 3/4 of an inch? Thanks

Re: Toein
 

Lousy.

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You will get extreme wear on your tires in a short period, let alone the increased wear on the front bearings. It would probably zig and zag with every uneven surface of the road.
Jeff

Re: Toein
 

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I can tell you from experience that it will EAT your tires. However, I found that the car handled okay in spite of the excessive toe. I think the previous owner intentionally adjusted the toe in so extremely to eliminate a front end wobble. I brought the wishbone ball back to original and redid the kingpins. After that, I set the toe where it should be and the wobble was no longer an issue.

Ken

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'how does car drive' ?
You will not enjoy driving a car in such condition.
This discourages usage and also is a safety issue.
Also, adds to wear/tear on vehicle parts and hard wear on tires !

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Might be someones "fix" for sloppy front end parts so by the time the car is moving the slack is taken out.

But yes what has been said is all true - also it wouldn't coast very well at that much toe.

first thing id do is jack up each side and pull and tug on the wheel to see if theres any slop in the kingpins/steering linkages and fix all that stuff first as resetting the toe isnt fixing a potential problem.

Re: Toein
 

3/4 inch toe in will make the car plough forward.

Chop out the insides of the tyres, but will steer somewhat Ok (straight).

3/4 inch toe out, will make the car wander and dart either way at the slightest road undulation and will chop the outsides of the tyres out.

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It'll drive like it's under water.

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easy to adjust the toe-in with a home made jig. Mark the center line of tire treads with masking tape (on a level floor) and equal vertical measurements both sides to floor as close to axle center as possible. Push car forward or back for front or rear measurement marks on tape to 1/16 to 1/8" more at tire rear. Also, vendors or internet have gauges. See the Service Bulletins to see how high up from floor marks should be to clear the radius rods, etc..
Others may have different methods

Re: Toein
 

I set mine at 1/16 plus or minus 1/32 . If a person isn't use to setting toe in it would be best to hav it checked and adjusted at a good front end alignment shop .

Correct toein helps keep the wheels going in a straight line . Toe out will usually cause shimmy or death wobble . Too much toe in will cause drag and tire wear . Three quarter inch toein would cause noticeable power loss .

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I jist "eyeball" it & if tires wear EVEN, I jist fergit it.---YES, UR tires can "talk" to you, jist like my Dog "talks" to me---LOL
Lazy Mayor Bill W.

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I bungey cord a 6 ft straight edge to each front wheel, so they stick out the front .

Sit the out front lengths on 2 milkcrates .

The distance where toe in is measured is about 26 inches (for a 21 inch wheel) at the tyre walls.

I simply put 2 marks out front on the straight edges 26 inches apart and measure there.

No need to move car or crawl under it to measure.

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Try two, 15 Foot 2 X 4s, placed alongside the front & rear tires???---"About" as accurate as some other "strange" methods.
Ever hear about Front End Alignment Shops???
Bill Sawone!

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Bill in post 14 is correct; we use 2x's to help insure the front/ back wheels are in line with each other.

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While the 2x4 method seems like a very good idea, go to the local building supply and try to find (2) 16 footers that are STRAIGHT. Better take a good pair of gloves and lunch, you are going to be there awhile.

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I agree , The yard man will always try to put the crooked lumber off on you .

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And IS a model A the same track front and back exactly ?

If it was from the factory, too many variables now anyway.

Firstly the 2X4 would have to be mid height on the wheels, as the front has camber and the top and bottom of the tyre are not the same distance apart from side to side.

And secondly, what if the rear axle taper is worn and the hub is further on, again changing track.

Re: Toein
 

I purposely bought the REAL Crookedy Lumber, CHEAP & built RUSTIC lookin' BENCHES/ETC & salvaged through their "throw away" bin, for FREEBIES.
I also hung around the lot, lookin' for someone with a purchase that wouldn't fit in their car & made $$$$$$s, hauling it for them:D I should have bought an "AA" Flatbed!
Bill Moneyhungry

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WELL, Pooch,
I'm CROOKEDY, from Polio, in 1937, but I get by fairly well:D
Bill Leaning

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I purposely bought the REAL Crookedy Lumber, CHEAP & built RUSTIC lookin' BENCHES/ETC & salvaged through their "throw away" bin, for FREEBIES.
I also hung around the lot, lookin' for someone with a purchase that wouldn't fit in their car & made $$$$$$s, hauling it for them:D I should have bought an "AA" Flatbed!
Bill Moneyhungry _________________

Bill, with a real croookedy length of timber, you will say you can check the ACKERMAN angle of the steering as well....:D

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Adjust your tie rod. Check with Les's book.

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Les Andrews book says the toe-in should be 1/16 +-1/32. The Model A Ford Service Bulletins on page 239 says 3/16” to 1/4”
Which is it?

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The spec was changed. Page 283 of the Service Bulletins shows the 1/16" spec.


Bob

Re: Toein
 

Thanks Bob. I missed that change.

Mine steers great but have noticed ridges forming on the inside of the ribs. Found the toe-in to be 7/16”.

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Improper toe will certainly feather-edge/ wear the heck out of tires.

If one wants to set their toe in the privacy of there own home then a couple 3' lengths of angle iron drilled and shimmed to be bolted to the wheel mounting studs will work. I prefer 1/32-1/16" in. In is good, out is not. [smiley face]

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Not all Model a rims are perfectly true. A slightly bent rim can give you a false reading. I use the following method to set the toe in.

Drill a hole in a block of wood at a 45 degree angle just big enough to get a sharpie pen in the block of wood. The pen needs to be tight and stationary in the block. Jack up the front wheels just off of the floor one at a time. Place the block on the floor and the sharpie against a flat spot in the center of the tire tread of the jacked up wheel and hold the block in place. Slowly turn the wheel so that you make a center line on the tire. Repeat on the other front wheel. This method will give you a true measurement even if the rim is slightly bent. You will need two people to take the measurements. The measurement between the center lines is taken with both tires on the floor. Measure the distance in the front by placing the tape measure resting on the bumper braces. Measure the distance in the back by just kissing the tape measure up against the A bars. Loosen and turn the tie rod for the adjustment.

This method will give you an accurate setting.

P<S< It is sure good to see Bill W. posting again.....

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Sorry, that post was from 2 years ago.

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Get a dubie that's what ford used to get the model a's straight there about $95.00 for a new one, but you can buy a original one allot cheaper than that that's what I did works great even works on new cars and trucks.

That is if you know how to set the toe in on the newer cars and trucks that's what I would suggest you do that, and don't try making one as my neighbor did that and now he has what I have.

reggiedog

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The ford measurement is taken 6” s from the floor. It will measure different higher or lower than 6”s.

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What do you mean by that? Or do you have a Dubie now or had someone that has one help you out, as there not that expensive I think $95.00 is all as these Model A's always go out of alinement.

So if you can find a original one it would be best to buy one or a new one either way it will save you in the long run as that's what I did, and it's helped me out allot but I have looked for one for about a year for a original one.

and it was allot cheaper than the new ones but getting the new one would probably be more accurate than the original one are, and that is probably why I have to go and adjust mine all the time.

But look them up on the internet just type in Duby wheel alinement tool it should come up and you can see what these are, as they look just like the originals do as I only used mine once on a newer car as they will work on any car.

Good Luck Reggiedog

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your suppose to roll the car back and forth on level ground with the chains just touching the ground and the tool must be on the outside of the rim next to the tire, Look it up in your service manual book it will tell you how to do it.

Reggiedog

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Front end geometry is pretty much the same on any vehicle, especially the old timers.
Toe should be 1/32" - 1/16" on just about anything.
Measuring at the rear then rolling the vehicle forward before measuring front just adds rolling pressure to try to force the front of the wheels out. Applying some hand pressure to the front of the tires will do the same.