39 Head torque
 

Edmund (sp?) finned aluminum, 40? 45 ? "Best" brand gasket. Copper coat ?:confused:

Re: 39 Head torque
 

45 lb, Best gaskets are fine. No copper coat.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Yes, #45 is more than enough. However, you should do this through at least 3 heat cycles. THis will insure compressing the gasket. Now if these are new heads they should be checked for piston clearance. Looking foe .045/050" for best preformance and economy.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

motors manual says 35 to 40# for aluminum, I don't like copper gaskets with aluminum heads, worry about electrolisis, it my never happen but I play it safe

Re: 39 Head torque
 

I just noticed that there are two different head gaskets for this engine. one type has round water passage holes in the center, the other has trapezoidal holes.. Does it make a difference?

Re: 39 Head torque
 

I'd suggest you match the gasket to the engine (hole). The trapezoid hole is Ford, the round hole is Merc.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Kube ? I wasn't aware of a Ford vs Mercury block, an additional detail?

Re: 39 Head torque
 

What holes are in the head? I have always used the gasket with round holes. I believe Ford went to these as a service gasket.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

The head is in the machine shop, so I can't match it up to the gasket yet. The gasket that matches the block has the trapezoidal water holes in the center and has larger water holes in the lower section. I'll take some pictures when I have all the parts here.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

A friend of mine always put a good coat of silver aluminum pigment spray paint on copper gaskets instead of copper coat. His explanation way back then was that it wouldn't corrode as easy. Knowing what I know now about dissimilar metal corrosion, it makes even more sense to me now. The aluminum pigment paint would block the copper from the aluminum head better as well as provide a bit of sealing.

Best gaskets are pretty good stuff but sometimes you have to play with the gasket thickness and copper is the only way to really do that. It just depends on how you build the engine.

Ford played around a fair bit with the deck ports. 221 24-stud would have trapezoidal center ports. 239 engines were round in the center. A lot of gaskets choke down on some of the ports to slow the flow in certain areas. They just have small holes in the gasket while the deck ports will be larger.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

At least in '39 - '40, the center water passage was different between the Ford and Mercury castings. Ford had a trapezoid shaped passage while Mercury had a round passage.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Thanks, didn't know that! But then there's lots I don't know!!! :)

Re: 39 Head torque
 

This is from Best for copper or graphtite gaskets.

Install using using a spray-on sealant like K & W Copper Coat or Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket. Always re-torque, no short-cuts.

John

Re: 39 Head torque
 

If I did it right, there should be two head gaskets pictured.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

It worked ! The top one is the one I removed. The bottom one is the new one I am going to install. The top one not only restricts water flow in the center, but also has smaller water holes on the bottom between 1&2 and 3&4. This is a much better match to the block. Machine shop is dragging it's feet.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Ford actually restricted some of the ports for a reason. This way they could control the flow around the cylinders and especially through the head a bit better to relieve hot spots. The 8BA blocks had larger ports at the back of the decks to flow more from rear to front but it made the decks a bit weaker. I don't get real worried about the gaskets changing the coolant flow.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

The upper gasket directs more flow to rear cylinders and is a much better gasket than the lower one. The upper still allows plenty of flow at the middle.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Bad news... Got the head back from the 'shene shop.. They cut it .012. I didn't like what I saw. The head was bowed with the center raised. Making the end chambers slightly smaller.Couldn't find my magnetic mount for my dial indicator. (probably loaned out!).I should have stopped but being an optimist... I put the head on without a head gasket. Cranked engine over by hand and nothing touched (that I could feel). Checked the thickness of the gasket I took off, "Best". Found the compressed gasket measured .058". I figured there should be enough clearance if the new "Best" gasket compresses the same. I would bet that the deck was cut at some time since it is a .040 over bore. It certainly had a major rebuild along the way.. Every thing was great up to the third torqueing after two runs and cooling. Third torqueing went OK but when I started it up.. knocking! Removed the head and found the front and back exhaust valve just barely touching the head. So Now it looks like we are looking for new heads. If it was my car I would opt for stock iron and dress it up with chrome nut covers but the owner likes the Bling of the finned heads. I keep telling myself that this is a fun hobby.. It sure as heck isn't a profitable one! Anyone have a set of uncut finned heads?

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Why not just clearance for the valves? Not that difficult.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Yup, X2 do that all the time. However, I usually measure the clearance before I bolt them on.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Valve relief ! Great idea! I am sure there is a lot of meat in the heads for a little relief. I sure would like to salvage this project without breaking the bank. All this help is very much appreciated!

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Obviously they had to be touching when you tried it without a gasket! A little grinding and you will be just fine. I would use the aluminum foils balls to check clearance before you finish the job. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

I don't know how I missed the clearance problem.. Maybe a senior moment.. But you were right! I added a little more space in the valve pockets and problem solved. :)Now to get another head gasket. That is the good news. The bad news is I broke the temp gauge bulb..:mad:

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Unfortunately, these heads are not very thick. However when clearencing for valve relief. You should do this at a 5 degree angle, that way you don't have to take off much material. I realize saving money is important, but you have to know the pit falls of doing it wrong. Might cost you more than you planned. An easy way to check all this is to lay the head on the block located by a few bolts, with out a gasket. Spinn the motor, if nothing hit's your golden. But actually measuring the volume and clearances can actually make things work better. Plus you'll know what the CR is.

Re: 39 Head torque
 

Thanks for our sage advise Ron. Valve shrouding is certainly an issue with these old heads once they have been cut so much. I could have CC'd the head if I still had my setup that I gave away a few years ago when I stopped oval track racing, At this point I just want this thing to run, not overheat and leave my shop!