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JSeery 04-06-2015 03:05 PM

How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

3 Attachment(s)
Based on several resent post there seems to be a lot of confusion about how early Ford gauges work. They are NOT resistant units and are unique to Ford as far a I know. A lot of the following is directly lifted from a Ford Shop Manuel. There are also a lot of older post on the Barn on this same issue.

The 6v Ford gauges (Fuel Level, Oil Pressure & Temperature) all work on similar principles. They have two major components, a Sender Unit and a Gauge Unit. The senders use a bimetal element and a heating coil to control the average current flow through both units. The Gauge Unit pointer is controlled by another bimetal and heating coil unit.
When the ignition switch is on, current flows through the circuit and warms the Sending Unit bimetal by means of a heating coil, causing the bimetal strip to bend and open a set of contact points. When the points open the current is interrupted allowing the bimetal to cool and close the contact points again. This cycle then repeats and the points vibrate open and closed pulsing the current in the circuit.
Because the current through the heating coil in the Sending Unit also flows through the heating coil in the Gauge Unit, the amount of heat supplied to the gauge unit is about the same as the heat in the Sending Unit. The amount of heat in both units is controlled by the average current flowing through the circuit due to the repeated opening and closing of the contact points.
The Sending Unit varies the current required to open and close the contact points by varying the pressure on the bimetal strip making it harder or easier for the points to open and close. The more pressure on the points the more heat (current) that is required to open the points. Likewise, the less the pressure on the points the less heat (current) that is required. The different gauges use slightly different mechanical systems to accomplish this.
Fuel Level Sender Unit:When the tank is filled, the float rises with the fuel level in the tank and a cam moves the ground contact toward the bimetal arm, increasing the tension holding the contacts closed. A greater amount of current is required to heat the Sending Unit bimetal arm enough to cause it to open the contacts. A similar greater bending of the bimetal arm occurs in the Gauge Unit and results in a movement of the needle toward the full position on the scale.
Oil Pressure Sender Unit: When there is no oil pressure, the contact points are just touching and the gauge pointer register at the “0” position. Any increase in oil pressure bends a diaphragm, which in turn increases the tension on the bimetal arm. More heat must be supplied to cause the contacts to open and a resulting increase in the average current flow to supply this heat. This increase in average current flow in the circuit heats the coil in the Gauge Unit which bends the bimetal strip and moves the pointer.
Temperature Sender Unit(s): The Temperature Sender is coupled with a Thermal switch. When the engine is cool the bimetal arm in the Sending Unit has maximum tension holding the contacts closed. The Maximum average current is necessary to open the contacts. The heating effect of the current causes the Gauge Unit bimetal arm and pointer to defect toward the “C” position of the scale. As the engine temperature increases, less current is required to keep the contacts at the break point since the increase in engine temperature causes the Sending Unit bimetal to bend away from the grounded contact. The Gauge Unit pointer then registers toward the “H” position of the scale.
The Sending Unit has one electric terminal. The Thermal Switch can be identified by the two terminal connectors on it. The switch is set to open at 200-212° F. With a sending unit in one cylinder bank and the switch in the other cylinder bank, the Gauge Unit will indicate a boiling condition in either bank.
Testing a Gauge System
Fuel Level & Oil Pressure System Tests: Gauge Unit can be tested by disconnecting the wiring to the Gauge Unit and connecting it to a 1 ½ volt source (a “D” cell battery works well). The gauge should display mid-scale with a 1 ½ volt input and full-scale with 3 volt input (two “D” cell batteries). The suggested test of a Sending Unit is to test it by substituting a know good gauge to see if it will read correctly with the suspect Sending Unit. If it does not work correctly with a know good gauge the problem could be a bad Sender Unit or a bad connection between the Sender Unit and the Gauge Unit.
Oil Pressure System Test: The gauge test is the same as for the Fuel Level and Oil Pressure Gauge Unit test. The Sending Unit is checked the same as the Fuel Level and Oil Pressure Sending Unit. The Thermal Switch can be tested to see if it is closed at normal temperatures. It can be tested with a test light or an ohm meter. It should show continuity. The switch can then be tested to determine if it opens at boiling temperature by placing the bulb in boiling water and testing it. At temperature it show test as an open.

Edit: on another post it was pointed out that by shorting the electrical terminal on the sending unit you are causing full current to flow through the Gauge Unit which would move the pointer on the gauge to full scale. I would be very carful doing this test because it would be easy to damage the heater coil in the Gauge Unit. It should be a momentary test. If the Gauge Unit responds then the Sending Unit may be the problem. If not it could be the wire between the two or the Gauge Unit itself. I would lean toward the "D" cell battery test, much easier on the Gauge Unit.

rockfla 04-06-2015 04:06 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

How far does this process go?? All the way through 1953??

JSeery 04-06-2015 04:09 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfla (Post 1064415)
How far does this process go?? All the way through 1953??

Yep and one year of the 12volt years, 1956 I think.

Old Henry 04-06-2015 04:43 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

That's great info. I'll just add two diagrams that I have to illustrate the text.

Oil pressure gauge system:

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/...pseyb5fagx.jpg

Temperature gauge:



http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/...psyo7ynm0e.jpg

http://i1059.photobucket.com/albums/...pswl9tvzdy.jpg

JSeery 04-06-2015 04:51 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

LOL Henry I just added the same ones! Well now we're sure the diagrams are in there!!! Yours are posted full size so guess that is an improvement.

Old Henry 04-06-2015 05:00 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1064454)
LOL Henry I just added the same ones! Well now we're sure the diagrams are in there!!! Yours are posted full size so guess that is an improvement.

I'd like to get the gas one full size if you could give me a link for it. I've not seen that one before.

The new replacement gas senders are, in fact, resistance senders using a rheostat activated by the float.

19Fordy 04-06-2015 05:04 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

JSeery: Excellent. Thank you again.
I printed it all out.

Bolts 04-06-2015 08:20 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Thanks for posting this info.

Barlea 04-06-2015 09:18 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfla (Post 1064415)
How far does this process go?? All the way through 1953??

Pretty sure Fords are still using the same 6V King-Seeley system into the 70s, with a gauge voltage regulator providing an average 5.6V. It's the '56 models with the first year 12V electrics that used a different type of 12V gauges. ..B.

deucemac 04-07-2015 03:28 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

That same gauge system was used all the way up to 1985 save 1956. Then ford, in their infinite lack of wisdom went to the magnetic gauges like GM and we had trouble ever since. The gauges have no idea what they are reading and I have often taken a much later gauge with the same sweep, changed the needle and face from the older gauge and used it without problem. Ford Torinos and Ranchero Gt's from the '70's have donated their gauges for me on several occasions. The beauty and simplicity of a King-Seely gauge is incredible. Ford made a gauge tester that would fit to the sender wire and work for both 6 and 12 volt gauges, though only designed for 12 volt.One position checks the "IVR" but since the 6 volt doesn't need this function, the 6 volt gauge will respond to the test of low, middle, and high for gauge needle position. I used mine since the early '70's when I started in Ford dealerships and have it yet today squirrelled away in retirement. I guess I am a natural born pack rat.

britman 04-07-2015 07:51 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

If repo fuel senders are resistor type, what are the implications when installed with original fuel gauge? I have noticed that my fuel gauge (39 deluxe)takes several minutes to register correctly(not sure about accuracy) as does the volt meter.

Old Henry 04-07-2015 08:29 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by britman (Post 1064815)
If repo fuel senders are resistor type, what are the implications when installed with original fuel gauge?

They work just fine. The rheostat in the modern gas gauge sender controls the heating of the bimetal strip in the stock gauge the same as the oscillating switch in the original sender does.

19Fordy 04-07-2015 08:36 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Old Henry, Who sells a modern gas guage sender that will accurately work with the original bi-metal Ford fuel gauge?

Old Henry 04-07-2015 09:31 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy (Post 1064832)
Old Henry, Who sells a modern gas guage sender that will accurately work with the original bi-metal Ford fuel gauge?

Here's one at Mac's: http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_me...tion-tank.html

http://htsmall.macsautoparts.com/ass...u/64-20528.jpg

Here's one at C&G: http://cgfordparts.com/ufolder/cgcat...&sp=Search+%23

Here's Bob Drake's: https://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.as...a-7f378a887934

https://www.bobdrake.com/images/Item...A-9275_lrg.jpg

I believe that's the one I bought and am using. Works fine.

19Fordy 04-07-2015 11:47 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Thank you.
Not trying to beat a dead horse, BUT when you say,
"I believe that's the one I bought and am using. Works fine."
Did you buy the one from Mac's, C&G or Drake?
Thanks again.

Old Henry 04-07-2015 11:49 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by 19Fordy (Post 1064947)
Thank you.
Not trying to beat a dead horse, BUT when you say,
"I believe that's the one I bought and am using. Works fine."
Did you buy the one from Mac's, C&G or Drake?
Thanks again.

Drake. But, I believe they are all the same sender. They certainly all work the same way with a float operated rheostat.

19Fordy 04-07-2015 11:57 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Thank you again. JIM

rotorwrench 04-07-2015 12:43 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

I've heard both sides of the coin on the rheostat variable resistance types. Most resistance based units use a specific Ohm resistance range and they vary between manufactures of the different units. Many claim that the repos work OK and then many claim they don't indicate accurate quantities. I think if you play with the adjustments you can gain some accuracy within a narrow band of meter movement but you can never get them to be accurate through out the range of movement. The resistance levels are more minute for working a current based indicator and the rheostats just can't attain the accuracy in those small levels of resistance change but they will give you some idea whether you are getting close to empty which is likely the most important use of a quantity indicating system. You may not know how much is left but that won't matter as much as the system causing you to run out of gas on the side of the road somewhere.

john in illinois 04-07-2015 05:44 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

JSeery, thank you for posting this.

John

FireEngineMike 09-13-2016 10:29 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

I am afraid I am still a little dense troubleshooting the gas and temperature gauges. History: 1940 1-1/2 ton panel. I replaced the OEM gas sending unit with the one from Mac's. It gave readings that increased as I added gas to the tank using a 5-gallon can. Temperature gauge worked fine. Some time later I removed the distributor and spark plug wire assembly including looms to have the distributor serviced and new wires installed. I had to remove the temp sending wire (I have only a single one-terminal sending unit on the driver side) to get the driver side loom out. Ever since I reinstalled everything the temp gauge reads H and the gas gauge reads E. I checked the gas gauge by momentarily grounding a long jumper connected to the sending unit wire and the gauge read F. Both failures happened after I removed and reinstalled the temp sending unit wire. The temp sending wire has continuity to the gauge. Thoughts?

JSeery 09-13-2016 10:42 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Hard to say, did you mix the wiring up? Damage the sender? Because you are having two systems exhibit a problem I would guess a wiring problem. On the temperature gauge H indicates an open somewhere in the wiring or the sender.

FireEngineMike 09-13-2016 01:13 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

I did two things at the temp sending unit. I removed and reinstalled the wire to the sending unit. Only one wire and one place to reinstall it. I replaced the screw with a socket head cap screw because the original straight head screw was buggered. Both gauges stopped working properly afterward.
I will double check continuity of the wire and try the 1.5 volt battery test procedure on both gauges and look for mid-range. Key off, 6 volt input wires and sending unit wires disconnected from gauges?
Operationally, with the temp sending unit wire disconnected, shouldn't the fuel gauge still work?
Since the fuel gauge deflected full range with momentary contact by the jumper from the sending unit end of the wire, I assume (uhoh, there's that word) that the gauge has 6 volt supply and the wire from the sending unit has continuity. The ground wire at the fuel sending unit is good, but I will double check it for continuity with the positive cable on the battery disconnect.

GB SISSON 07-04-2017 10:49 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1064383)
Based on several resent post there seems to be a lot of confusion about how early Ford gauges work. They are NOT resistant units and are unique to Ford as far a I know. A lot of the following is directly lifted from a Ford Shop Manuel. There are also a lot of older post on the Barn on this same issue.

The 6v Ford gauges (Fuel Level, Oil Pressure & Temperature) all work on similar principles. They have two major components, a Sender Unit and a Gauge Unit. The senders use a bimetal element and a heating coil to control the average current flow through both units. The Gauge Unit pointer is controlled by another bimetal and heating coil unit.
When the ignition switch is on, current flows through the circuit and warms the Sending Unit bimetal by means of a heating coil, causing the bimetal strip to bend and open a set of contact points. When the points open the current is interrupted allowing the bimetal to cool and close the contact points again. This cycle then repeats and the points vibrate open and closed pulsing the current in the circuit.
Because the current through the heating coil in the Sending Unit also flows through the heating coil in the Gauge Unit, the amount of heat supplied to the gauge unit is about the same as the heat in the Sending Unit. The amount of heat in both units is controlled by the average current flowing through the circuit due to the repeated opening and closing of the contact points.
The Sending Unit varies the current required to open and close the contact points by varying the pressure on the bimetal strip making it harder or easier for the points to open and close. The more pressure on the points the more heat (current) that is required to open the points. Likewise, the less the pressure on the points the less heat (current) that is required. The different gauges use slightly different mechanical systems to accomplish this.
Fuel Level Sender Unit:When the tank is filled, the float rises with the fuel level in the tank and a cam moves the ground contact toward the bimetal arm, increasing the tension holding the contacts closed. A greater amount of current is required to heat the Sending Unit bimetal arm enough to cause it to open the contacts. A similar greater bending of the bimetal arm occurs in the Gauge Unit and results in a movement of the needle toward the full position on the scale.
Oil Pressure Sender Unit: When there is no oil pressure, the contact points are just touching and the gauge pointer register at the “0” position. Any increase in oil pressure bends a diaphragm, which in turn increases the tension on the bimetal arm. More heat must be supplied to cause the contacts to open and a resulting increase in the average current flow to supply this heat. This increase in average current flow in the circuit heats the coil in the Gauge Unit which bends the bimetal strip and moves the pointer.
Temperature Sender Unit(s): The Temperature Sender is coupled with a Thermal switch. When the engine is cool the bimetal arm in the Sending Unit has maximum tension holding the contacts closed. The Maximum average current is necessary to open the contacts. The heating effect of the current causes the Gauge Unit bimetal arm and pointer to defect toward the “C” position of the scale. As the engine temperature increases, less current is required to keep the contacts at the break point since the increase in engine temperature causes the Sending Unit bimetal to bend away from the grounded contact. The Gauge Unit pointer then registers toward the “H” position of the scale.
The Sending Unit has one electric terminal. The Thermal Switch can be identified by the two terminal connectors on it. The switch is set to open at 200-212° F. With a sending unit in one cylinder bank and the switch in the other cylinder bank, the Gauge Unit will indicate a boiling condition in either bank.
Testing a Gauge System
Fuel Level & Oil Pressure System Tests: Gauge Unit can be tested by disconnecting the wiring to the Gauge Unit and connecting it to a 1 ½ volt source (a “D” cell battery works well). The gauge should display mid-scale with a 1 ½ volt input and full-scale with 3 volt input (two “D” cell batteries). The suggested test of a Sending Unit is to test it by substituting a know good gauge to see if it will read correctly with the suspect Sending Unit. If it does not work correctly with a know good gauge the problem could be a bad Sender Unit or a bad connection between the Sender Unit and the Gauge Unit.
Oil Pressure System Test: The gauge test is the same as for the Fuel Level and Oil Pressure Gauge Unit test. The Sending Unit is checked the same as the Fuel Level and Oil Pressure Sending Unit. The Thermal Switch can be tested to see if it is closed at normal temperatures. It can be tested with a test light or an ohm meter. It should show continuity. The switch can then be tested to determine if it opens at boiling temperature by placing the bulb in boiling water and testing it. At temperature it show test as an open.

Edit: on another post it was pointed out that by shorting the electrical terminal on the sending unit you are causing full current to flow through the Gauge Unit which would move the pointer on the gauge to full scale. I would be very carful doing this test because it would be easy to damage the heater coil in the Gauge Unit. It should be a momentary test. If the Gauge Unit responds then the Sending Unit may be the problem. If not it could be the wire between the two or the Gauge Unit itself. I would lean toward the "D" cell battery test, much easier on the Gauge Unit.

On the D cell test, how do I wire up the battery? Just the two battery terminals to the to instrument terminals? Does it matter which terminal is ground?

JSeery 07-04-2017 02:18 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

The car use Positive ground and Negative for the power side. The gauge is wired with power from the ignition switch going to one terminal on the gauge and the other terminal connected to the sending unit. The negative side of the battery would connect to the ignition switch side of the gauge and the positive side would connect to the sender side of the gauge.

glennsanders 07-04-2017 03:22 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Great information thanks

Paul Bennett 07-04-2017 04:25 PM

Oscilloscope Anyone?
 

Has anyone used an Oscilloscope to determine the pulse speed of a Ford gauge at lo-mid-hi positions? I'm just curious.

Not a resistance direct current system, the Ford gauge isn't an alternating current system either. Information really depends upon the on-off pulse ratio not the pulse rate.

Sender open/pulses mostly off - gauge is at maximum.
Sender pulses mostly on - gauge is minimum.
Pulsing - gauge reads pulse off/on ratio.

I do find it interesting how the similar temperature coefficient of both sender and gauge work to cancel each other resulting in a system quite accurate across a wide ambient range.
.

GB SISSON 07-05-2017 12:02 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1494568)
The car use Positive ground and Negative for the power side. The gauge is wired with power from the ignition switch going to one terminal on the gauge and the other terminal connected to the sending unit. The negative side of the battery would connect to the ignition switch side of the gauge and the positive side would connect to the sender side of the gauge.

Thanks so much for this info. I just tested a very nice looking instrument panel that I bought for 60 bucks and now I know all three gauges work and center out with the D battery. This one goes in the woodie. Excellent thread!

50droptop 07-05-2017 07:13 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

So does converting to 12V affect the accuracy of the gauge? I was always under the impression you only needed to drop the voltage at the gauge, but it seems from the diagram that both the gauge and the sending unit would be impacted by the 12V.

JSeery 07-05-2017 09:42 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

All of the gauges work the same way, the current is from the gauge to the sender and to ground. A voltage drop is needed at the power input side of the gauge, the sender is just a path to ground. The circuit is matching the current flow through both the gauge and the sender. There is no way or reason you would attempt to connect a voltage drop device to the sender.

GB SISSON 07-05-2017 10:01 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1494920)
All of the gauges work the same way, the current is from the gauge to the sender and to ground. A voltage drop is needed at the power input side of the gauge, the sender is just a path to ground. The circuit is matching the current flow through both the gauge and the sender. There is no way or reason you would attempt to connect a voltage drop device to the sender.

I am a bit confused as to the resistor 'voltage drop' I need when converting to 12 volts. I see many ideas, but not sure what to do and what to use. One reducer for all 3 gauges, or 3 seperate? What and where to buy. Thanks GB

rotorwrench 07-05-2017 11:30 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Check out Randy Rundle's fifth avenue internet garage. He has about everything a person would need to switch to 12-volt. This includes dropping resistors & voltage regulators.

JSeery 07-05-2017 03:03 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 50droptop (Post 1494864)
So does converting to 12V affect the accuracy of the gauge? I was always under the impression you only needed to drop the voltage at the gauge, but it seems from the diagram that both the gauge and the sending unit would be impacted by the 12V.

See if this helps any.

rotorwrench 07-05-2017 06:11 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

The power in is at the gauge so it would need a runtz or a dropping resistor on there. The runtz units use one for each gauge I think but a dropping resistor or voltage regulator will drop all of them at once. Speedway carries this stuff too.

50droptop 07-05-2017 06:39 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSeery (Post 1495099)
See if this helps any.

Got it! I'm liking all the diagrams.

GB SISSON 07-05-2017 07:40 PM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

So I looked at all Randy's stuff and he seems like a very knowledgeable straight shooter and I thank you. What has worked well over time, the speedway style that does all gauges or the runtz, needing three? Money seems about the same. I'm ready to pull the trigger on one way or the other.

Curt in AZ 07-06-2017 12:35 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

I'd use the Runts units: one per gauge. Can't say for sure why, but I suspect the Runts may be more than a simple voltage dropping resitive load. In any event I like the idea of a single runtz unit responding to the individual load of each circuit rather than the average of the three parallel circuits.

rotorwrench 07-06-2017 08:42 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

The runtz is a mini regulator. It will keep accuracy better with separate units for each gauge.

GB SISSON 07-06-2017 09:18 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Runtz it is! Thanks much.

flatheadmurre 07-08-2017 02:27 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by rotorwrench (Post 1495381)
The runtz is a mini regulator. It will keep accuracy better with separate units for each gauge.

Accuracy shouldn´t be an issue using 1 or 3 regulators since the heaters in sender/gauge is in series so exact same current goes through them.

Last conversion i did uses a switched stepdown converter and is now being under test for dependability.

The stepdown converter modules are dirtcheap today i can´t buy a regulator and breadbord for what they sell online.

If you use one for each gauge just about any dropping device including a simple resistor works fine.

The gauge doesn´t care about the voltage...you just need to limit the current rush a bit.

rotorwrench 07-08-2017 08:15 AM

Re: How Ford Gauge Unit Work
 

The sender is not the problem so much as it is the generator output. It fluctuates even more on a generator than on an alternator but a change to 12-volts with an alternator changes things a lot. Fluctuation can be anything from 6-volts to 7.1 volts with the original set up but with 12-volts it's a different story (much more voltage spread at 12 to 14.7) and those little runtz regulators will keep it the same all the time and each gauge will be regulated separately so there are less chances of spikes creating any problems.

The gauges do care about voltage and especially amperage. Add twice the voltage to the mix also adds twice the amount of higher spike capability. Ford used constant voltage regulators on these systems for a long time after the change to 12-volt and for good reason.

The runtz is a step down switching converter or regulator if you choose. A person can build one cheaper but the labor involved along with soldering skills makes the runtz a relatively inexpensive way to do things. Definitely less hassle unless a person just likes to do that stuff themselves. A person could make 4 of them for the price of one prefabricated one if they were so inclined.


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