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Shop wireing Question I have a pressure wash tank to clean the shocks
the problem it the cover is so heavy that I can no longer open it. :eek: I want to put on a piston off a snow plow to open it using the 12V pump unit is there a converter that I can switch the DC requirements to AC so I can use shop power on this pump ?? :confused: THANKS |
Re: Shop wireing Question I do not have an answer for your question but I am wondering if you could rig something simple like putting a handle on the lid and using a simple ratchet strap or similar to open the lid or rig a handle to gain leverage.
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Re: Shop wireing Question Depending on the current draw requirements of the 12Volt pump, you could run it directly from an automotive battery charger, or just buy a 12 volt auto battery and run it directly from the battery and just recharge the battery when it gets low.
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Re: Shop wireing Question Bill:
How about a simple block and tackle set up? They can really help when trying to light something heavy. Hang it over a rafter right about the tank lid. Tim |
Re: Shop wireing Question you need a RECTIFIER to convert AC to DC voltage. DD
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Re: Shop wireing Question If it is the cylinder that lifts the plow it takes enough power that a converter to run it would be $$, a less expensive way to power it would be a battery and small charger, another option would be a liner actuater --- something like this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-actuators/=ve3zzp -- or perhaps some gas struts like used to hold hoods up on modern cars http://www.mcmaster.com/#electric-actuators/=ve3zzp |
Re: Shop wireing Question As stated previously, car battery kept on a trickle charger.
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Re: Shop wireing Question The older hydraulic pumps were driven off engine, could be driven with electric motor.
Get the control valve off old plow truck for your up and down. |
Re: Shop wireing Question Kurt is right......a rectifier that is capable of handling the current load that you're probably considering will not be cheap. Can you post a picture (or a name and model #) of your pressure wash tank lid and maybe we can come-up with another more-workable solution for your situation. DD
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Re: Shop wireing Question How about cylinders as used on modern automobile hoods or SUV back doors and windows. No electricity needed. Or does the lid need to go both up and down without assist from the operator? You have shop air how about an air cylinder and a hand valve or foot operated valve?
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Re: Shop wireing Question Check out local bicycle shops and look at the pulley system for lifting bicycles up to the ceiling and out of the way. Maybe something could be adapted. Or maybe just a couple of small pulleys from the local hardware store.
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Shop wireing Question Bill - sent you a PM
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Re: Shop wireing Question cable to a pulley to a foot peddle
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Re: Shop wireing Question How about making a lighter cover? I think that might be the easiest solution. Maybe a sheet of aluminum or plastic. Then again I may not be picturing what you have.
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Re: Shop wireing Question 1 Attachment(s)
Bill, here is a picture of the electric motor and ram from an old power lift chair.
I put an ad in craigslist, that i needed an old power lift chair that works, but the upholstery could be shot and not worth recovering. I got a couple old power lift chairs given to me, just to save them from a trip to the dump. Just plug them in, and push a remote button for up or down. I am going to make can crushers out of them, as they are very powerfull, and one ram has 7" of travel, and one ram has 8" of travel. Click on picture to Enlarge. . |
Re: Shop wireing Question I'm thinking deep cycle battery and one of those lift gate pumps.
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Re: Shop wireing Question I would think you should be able to come up with some simple counter balance system. Just a couple of pulleys, rope and a weight close to the weight of the lid.
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Re: Shop wireing Question One other option is an air operated ram either power in and out or just out and let the weigh of the lip depress the ram when you open the valve assuming you already have a compressor in the shop. Just a thought.
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Re: Shop wireing Question Can you not counter balance the weight of the lid with a weighted arm or arms attached to one or both side of the lid with the weight behind the hinge?
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Re: Shop wireing Question If everything else fails go to Autozone or any parts store and get you a couple of spring loaded cylinders that is used on trunk lids and some hoods and install on each side of the lid to help open it.
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Re: Shop wireing Question I'm going for counter balance, and the balance weight would be a pail of non rebuildable shock cores.
Martin. |
Re: Shop wireing Question Mount this above on the ceiling ( with something suitable).
http://www.harborfreight.com/440-lb-...0385-9253.html |
Re: Shop wireing Question Some rope, pulleys and old sash weights or dead shocks. Your done. Just counter balance the cover so even your granddaughter could open it.
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Re: Shop wireing Question Thanks every one for the suggestions ~~
I don't know the pressure this washer puts out. But the cover must weigh at least 50 + #'s and is located at top of the washer. and because of the weight of the cover I think that is what keeps it closed. I have to get on the 2nd step of a latter to open it & besides loosing strength I am having problems lifting over my head. so making a lighter cover would still have me lifting over my head. Adding counter weight would still have the same problem of lifting over my head. As most shops space it at a premium so block & tackle won't work. The Electric Linear Actuators would be the cats meow but $$$ I all ready have the piston and I think I'm going to go with switch over to air instead of oil. My Question now is I want to power up & down ( the piston is power both direction) so how many port air control valve would I need to accomplish this. ~~ THANKS AGAIN ~~ |
Re: Shop wireing Question The way a snow plow works is power up and bled off the oil to lower.
I think a 5 port valve would work. Middle position to hold pressure and up and down to release pressure so not to buck the other side of piston. Less then $50. |
Re: Shop wireing Question check out a trailer brake control from a tractor trailer , it is used to control trailer air to independently apply the trailer brakes ,it can be applied as light or as much as full reserviore pressure as desired, I have converted several for the use such as radiator
pressure testers for heavy equipment and big truck radiators, these valves clamp on the steering column ( similar to an add on turn signal set up), they are fairly light and can be mounted almost any place you want or in any position, a relay valve can be added to speed up the action if desired, and shouldn't be too expensive at a truck salvage, I don't know the size of the cylinder you have , as for myself occasionally I go to tractor supply and get a few agricultural cylinders, depending on the travel and amount of lift pressure needed, a cylinder on each side may be in order, or maybe the cylinder you already have depending on size will factor in as to the pressure and volume of air or fluid needed (to do the job at an acceptable rate) mounted in the center with pin brackets on top of the lid . post a pic and some dimentions. I ssume the cyl. you have is a dual action, if so the extending side has a greater pressure area than the retracting side so you may want to use the extending area to do the work . |
Re: Shop wireing Question Why not just get a boat winch from HF or some place & hook it up to a 12V battery.
You can power up & power down. Probably wouldn't nee to charge the battery but once a month. Remember KISS process. |
Re: Shop wireing Question Bill,
I'll check monday and see what I can scare up as far as a good used air hand valve, do you know the diameter of the cylinder, it would help to know as the larger the cyl ,diameter the better the lifting capability, the only down side would be the speed of operation, the hand valve ports are about 3/8" in pipe , this is where a relay valve comes into play, also usually not very expensive and simple to connect,no messy hydraulic leaks and no chance of acid leaks or danger of explosion if used in an area where a torch or open flame heater is in use, I may be surprised as to costs , because prices have skyrocketed the past several months, I have friends in the salvage business and don't mind checking it out. if you decide to go that route, I am crippled also and always looking for an easier way to get things done. growing old isn't easy, we just have to work a little smarter, grin!! |
Re: Shop wireing Question The plow unit is made for a lot of weight and a short throw, plus that electric pump pulls as much as a starter motor--- 200 amps or more.
Lots of good suggestions here, but here's another-- get a hydraulic setup from a convertible car. There's lots of them out there--- the systems were basically the same for 50+ years of multiple manufacturers. You get a pump and two ram cylinders that will still be 12 volt but a lot less amperage than a snow plow pump. Easily lift 50#. I also like the cable/rope and pulley method. Takes up very little space and if you do it right you won't have to reach over your head. |
Re: Shop wireing Question A possible word of caution. Most wash tanks have a lead connector to allow the lid to close in case of fire. Don't jinx your insurance coverage.
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Re: Shop wireing Question Becareful using a hydraulic cylinder with air pressure! The pressure can build up and the cylinder goes to full extension in one very fast motion. Counter weight or lift chair seems like the safest way to do this. The advice about the top dropping in case of fire should be taken!!..... MARK
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Re: Shop wireing Question Bill
Seeing you have a 2 way piston hang one end from rafter and extend to full length hook to a chain and use a lead tire weight in case of fire. |
Re: Shop wireing Question I have an old methylene chloride tank that has a heavy steel lid. It was designed with a large stick of square steel tube welded to the back of it and it has a heavy weight that slides up and down inside the tube that is attached to a 1/4" cable that runs to the top of the tube then runs over a pulley sheave and down to the lid as a counter balance set up. Depending on the size of the weight, you can set them up to where the lid can be lifted with a single finger. Hydraulics is cool but complicated by comparison. I have a sky jack that uses a 12-volt hydraulic pump like a convertible top lift set up and it will lift my overweight self up to over 20 feet by hydraulics and cables for the multi segments it lifts. Those pumps can be overkill for a hydraulic set up but it would work for sure.
You can use a fusible link where the cable attaches to the lid in case of fire. |
Re: Shop wireing Question You can build yourself a 12 volt power supply, there are instructions for it on the internet. Just a rectifier won't work, you will need to convert 120 volts AC to 12vDC, and so you need a transformer and rectifier. Also, it will need to be high amp, so it can drive the piston.
By the time you buy all you need, you could probably find a used high amp battery charger that will do the job. You will need at least 20 amps I would think, 30 would be better. Otherwise, I'd go with the car battery and charger setup. Bill, let me know if I can help. |
Re: Shop wireing Question Very inexpensive but easy use/make a davit from pipe or tubing & hand winch from a boat trailer. Make a flat mounting plate weld or bolt the davit to the plat & attach to your tank. A come-a-long instead of a hand winch would work also.
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Re: Shop wireing Question If you can go manual, try a used greenlee knockout tool, porta a power body tool or an old engine hoist. Just have to adjust the mounting points where you need it to open the most. You might try to get a motor and pump from a auto shop car lift.
air over hyd: http://images.craigslist.org/00J0J_f...89_600x450.jpg |
Re: Shop wireing Question Use the counter balance lever on the lid, then install a lever on one side which is lower than top of lid, now you could lift it up but not over your head. Adjust the balance so it just a slight lift, then make up a latch if there isn't one to keep it closed. Laurie
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Re: Shop wireing Question Bill,
It is probably a little late to ask but do you have any pictures? Charlie Stephens |
Re: Shop wireing Question Quote:
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Re: Shop wireing Question Bill I like your idea if you have a 12" cylinder and have a 24" cover and mounted on side of tank in middle. With air compressed there 100lbs should lift the cover. With a 12 stroke should open it 12",heighter closer to pivot point.
With a 5 port valve you would have rest, up, down, and with your finger could control it. You would need fitting push on hose and clamps. Some of those cylinder will take 200 lbs. It wouldn't,t take up any space. |
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