Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

See my avator, found this 1931 SW 160 -B, been sitting in storage since 1959, all there, but the interior fabric is mostly (all) gone, save the back seat which has the fold down arm rest (strange for a '31), no wiring, needs a windshield and one rear door window, no rust issues, engine complete with good compression, radiator holds water, hoses look good, paid $3500...good deal?
Found it in Fort Worth area, took it back home to Shawnee Oklahoma with me.
Will do a full carb re-build, full tune up, oil change, check tranny and rear end fluids...and then fire her up. Once I get her running I'll move to the brakes, after that it's just make-up issues to make her pretty.
So what do you all think...good barn find?

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Sounds like a great deal!!! You might think about also dropping thr engine oil pan and remove any sludge.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

That is a good find !!!

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Good deal, great deal!!!

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Great find! Welcome to the Ford Barn. Bob

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

:) Awesome. Love a survivor. Post some photos!!

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Great Find!!! Post some pictures & welcome to the Barn

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Don't think about it, DO IT:)

Your motor will love you forever, or certainly much longer than if you don't.

Valve chest too.

Great find, nice price

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

I've seen pro and con about dropping the oil pan, pro is...cleans out the mud...con is ...oil pump falls out and is a pain to get back in and pan leaks.
I have the pan gasket, I was thinking fresh oil, run it 20 -30 hours drain/fill and repeat. Do this several times.
Seeking Advice...should I drop the pan and fight the oil pump and the leaks?

Waiting until after Christmas to really get into it, been doing small things, cleaning and fixing small items, ordering parts, but the real fun starts after the new year. Picked up the car Dec. 3rd, 2014

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

This pan is off an engine that was sitting 15 years, most likely detergent oil because it was still dirty looking on the dipstick, engines that have "clean" oil on the dipstick have looked much worse, the "clean" oil was dirty when the engine last run, but because it was non detergent the dirt settles out---I have seen it deep enough to cover oil pump screen.

Have found many bug remains, mice, coins, rocks, sand and rags(once a whole towel)

many times the spring that holds the oil pump in place eaten away and broken---expect to replace it

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

I would most definitely pull the oil pan and clean out the sludge. What life is left in your engine may be in jeapardy . Will it run without it. Yes, is it doing it any good , no . It is wishfull thinking to think that the warm oil will melt all the sludge away to drain out the pan, while hoping thrh oil pump has enough area to actually pull oil in and distribute to lubricate the engine .

I do service /restoration work in my area and its really not a big deal. Messy, yes , necessary, I would say if you care about the engine yes .
Oil pan gaskets are cheap, engines are not.

Use a set screw plug either homemade or from the suppliers in the side oil galley hole after removing the slotted plug . It will hold up the oil pump. Also use 4 of the modern pan clips to hold the pan gasket and push the pan up through them to make installation easier . Not all that difficult . Pan clean out is an evening job .
Be sure to remove the tray and reinstall - search the site for oil pan tray removal
FYI out club does start ups every year as an event in cars that have been sitting for years. I was thankful I pulled the pan on one of mine that we did as it had been sitting since 74 . No way could the oil pump have pulled oil trough rj the muck over an inch thick around the oil pump

I saved the engine doing so...
You may also want to pull the valve cover and inspect/clean as well making sure tr main feeds are ok - usually are but it's worth the time to make sure all is clean

Larry Shepard

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Kurt has an excellent point about the spring at the bottom of the oil pump . It puts pressure on the pump to keep it engaged with the oil pump drive gear
Many times the springs get eaten away by the corrosive elements

Larry s

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Neat car! More pics please- I do love me a good barn find or other original cars that have been hiding away for eons.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Very good points from Larry and Kurt, gaskets are easy, complete engine rebuild not so much. As much as I want to start the engine, I want the engine to work, and work right.
Guess I will order the valve/intake/exhaust gaskets.
I like that trick to keep the oil pump from dropping..:)

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Back when I was in college and the dinosaurs roamed the earth, I would run a quart of AT fluid in the oil for a change or two. A power mechanics teacher at the college did this and said the AT fluid contained a high percentage of detergents and would clean out the engine.

He did this especially before tearing down an engine to re-build...said it saved a lot of time cleaning the parts for re-assembly.

:confused:

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

WARNING The slotted plug has pipe threads.
I used a pipe thread plug, drilled and tapped for a long machine screw to hold the pump in place.
I seem to remember that a radiator drain fitting can be used, but have never tried it.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Ah a late 1931.. great find, great price.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

After you finish the engine clean up and start on the wheel bearings and brakes , I would also suggest you check the back lash in the rear end; often times in the past the rear end was not taken down and the pre load on the pinion gear not checked; if it is sloppy you can lose the rear end when the pinion gear does not mesh properly with the ring gear; the result is losing 2 or 3 teeth on the pinion gear; it then takes a new matched ring and pinion to correct the problem.

Ron

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Just slam the oil pan upside down onto the grass to knock out the dipper tray. After cleaning the tray and pan, hold each up to the light to check for pin holes. I bought a nice looking oil pan at a swap meet that still had 2 quarts of oil in it. I have no idea why someone would leave oil in the pan, but after I cleaned it, the oil pan had 4 pin holes through the bottom.

Also, while the pan is off is a good time to check clearances. At the very least grab each connecting rod and see if you can feel any radial play. They will have some side play. Also look for any babbit squishing out the sides of the bearing caps. The center main is usually the first to go.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

When you open the valve chamber, spray some cleaner down each of the bearing lube holes. if the tube is open the cleaner will run out abound the crank.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

I'm new to the Ford Barn, been into Model A's for over 30 years and you have a great find. We have had many great years with our 31 S/W Town Sedan. Building a touring motor for it as we speak. Bratton's has a "Oil Pump Holder Tool" for dropping the oil pan. It's cheap and nice to have in your tool box if another club member has to work on their car on a tour (part number: #09895).

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

That's what I did, and I poked a pipe cleaner up and down at the same time. You can feel when the pipe cleaner hits the crankshaft, so don't force it and scratch the crank. Last step is to squirt oil down each tube.:)

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Burner are you a member of the Tulsa or Sooner Model A Club? If not you will find a wealth of talent and resources to help with your find.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

One more thing to check while you are at it. Is there fuel in the tank? If not-or even if there is-drain it. Pull the drain on/off valve out or the fuel line and blow compressed air into the tank. Blow it all around to get any rust, stones, crap out of it. then flush it with acetone. Reconnect all lines after they to have been checked. You should not have to many rust problems with the carb after that. Nice find and welcome to the barn.

Mike

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Washed the engine and tranny today, going to stop til after Christmas, then it;s full speed ahead.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

I am looking to connect with a club but Tulsa and OKC are a little far for me, I live outside of Shawnee, out in the woods, and I can't stand the big city's. Don't know which club would be best for me, but would love to be in one.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Tank is clean and dry, been capped for decades, little to no rust, but will clean it out anyways.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

I would inspect the oil pump also. You want a clean, functioning oil pump.
Someone took care of the car on their watch. Take your time, and be systomatic.
Start a journal from day one. Anything you learn, or do to the car should go in it.
Diagrams of assemblies, parts and sources.
Bratton's and snyders catalogs both have great diagrams of these assemblies.
And have a great xmas.
Bob

Bob

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Burner, welcome. Also a great find. Is it a Murray or briggs body ? I too have a 31 S/W Town sedan photos in my album.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

just wondering did you get a title with this great barn find

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

When you are ready to replate that emergency brake their is a good plater in OKC.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Late 31 s/w indented firewall with fold down arm rest ?? I have the same car but arm rest are on both sides of rear seat . No fold down arm rest in center of seat.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

The parts suppliers have a oil pump retainer for about $6.00. Snyder's is on page 126 of the 2014 catalogue. I haven't used one yet, but I do have it on my wishlist.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

check that fan and make sure it is not one of the old ones that will throw a blade.

Re: Barn find 1931 SW 160-B
 

Burner31,
Before you take down the oil pan, try this:
>Drain the oil;
>Stick your index finger up through the oil drain hole and feel for sludge. The drain plug should be full of sludge if the oil pan is to;
>Bend up a coat hanger so you can insert through the drain hole and scoop out some sludge if there is any.