Re: Engine test stand
 

Those stands look very nice, but rather expensive. If you can find a grocery shoping cart that still has good wheels, you have a great engine stand. The two I built had the baskets tossed, and both had some solid metal on the rear to work with. I lenghtened them about a foot, and built up the back some 1/4 X 2 plate would bolt to the bell housing. Many holes later it has run a flathead, a chev, a nailhead, and a Y block. It works good, its cheap, and it rolls around easy.

Re: Engine test stand
 

Know what you mean, had to remove engine #5 from it's test stand to remedy a bad habit of connecting rod sawing block in two. Use ship anchor chain to test under load and keep rings from glazing (ha ha). Do use anchor to test/tune and inside the building that thing is LOUD.

Re: Engine test stand
 

When I get mine built,it will be used to mostly check out engines that have been taken out of cars and put away for awhile,do a good tine up ,ck compression oil pressir.etc.,even ck the transmission .

Re: Engine test stand
 

Some time ago I traded for a 59AB with 14,000 miles on a factory overhaul. The heads and intake have been removed but I have them. I want to buy or build an engine stand. Not being that good with a welder I thought of building one out of wood. I have a spare radiator that could handle the cooling.

Re: Engine test stand
 

Yes, my present enginrstand is made from wood. I used it to fire uo both the 294 and the 280 and will use it to run the 248, my next engine. I fire them up check for oil pressure get a little heat in them and if they don't sound like something is bouncing aroun inside they go into the car.. My first engine stand was a 300HP GE Dyno, I''d put a 25-50 hp load on it and vary the rpm from 2500 to 2500 untill it got very hot. Then let it cool down, retorque the heads and then start testing it for power output.

Re: Engine test stand
 

Don't you love it when guys re-open these golden-oldie posts?!? - You're welcome!

We'll there is where I'm at. I'm assembling a 1953 8BA that will go into a model A coupe. GOFAST (Gary) did the machine work and provided all the parts (Great guy to deal with, I'm lucky to have him close by)

This is my first flathead build so I'm taking it slow. This is also my first AV8 build and I don't want a bunch of projects all up in the air at the same time, so I would like to test the motor and break in the cam before I drop it into the car. I plan to make a stand that I can use to run the motor on, but also store in until the chassis is ready.

I believe the motor need to run for about 20 minutes at a high idle for the cam to break in and then under load at various speeds to seat the rings. Is this correct?

~Carl

Re: Engine test stand
 

Yup I agree. I put my money where my mouth is and backed myself. Built engine , install to car full hooked up, start, run hard, quick check nothing is leaking , jump in and give it some with plenty of load !
Now Im back to driving daily... ; )

Re: Engine test stand
 

On my stand I have a place were a 6' long rough cut 2x4 fits in and I can leverage it against the flywheel. I can pretty much stall a good engine with it. Yes there is some wood smoke. The engine thinks it is climbing a long hill in high, then coasting down, then another in second. When my friends come by and I give them a show, the engine thinks it just did 5 miles of hilly terrain. How would the engine know the difference? If I were to build a good stand on this principle, the stand would include a 4 speed T-9 with a band brake on the tranny, perhaps drip water cooled. Click, click on the lever, engine is under a load. We all win.