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Old 12-03-2010, 09:34 PM   #1
glenn in camino
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Default rear main seal

I'm assembling a bone stock Model A engine and I found an unopened rubber rear main seal with instructions in my engine parts box. It's called NEW positive, cant leak, rear main seal. It was made by Moulded Products Company in Rosemede Calif. The copyright on the instruction sheet is dated 1965. It was in a clear plastic package and is soft and plyable. Have any of you ever used one of these and have any comments, warnings, or suggestions.
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Old 12-03-2010, 10:20 PM   #2
Geo.T
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Default Re: rear main seal

If it is the same as the ones that I have used, it comes in two pieces (upper and lower) and has a "lug" or "ear" on each side at the split to prevent it turning. It is necessary to cut (file) a space in the bearing (cap?) to accommodate this "lug". Mine also came from Rosemead. I installed the first one in about 1970 and replaced it with a new one when I rebuilt my engine in 2005. I never had any problems with my rear main leaking but always kept the bearing clearances near spec. I would probably try to obtain a spare rubber seal before cutting the bearing for the lugs if I was going to use it for the first time. By the way the old one was still in good condition when I removed it in 2005. Just my experience.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:33 PM   #3
Kurt in NJ
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Default Re: rear main seal

When I was restoring my car in 1970 I bought a rubber seal, never used it --and I am glad I didn't --I recently found it ---and dropped it, it shattered into many pieces --IF I had used it my rear main would be leaking now, and I would be stuck with a cut off slinger.

My stock system is fine, just a drop occasionally.

If the slinger is machined off on a different center than the mains it will leak.

If the surface of the cap was filed unevenly and doesn't fit the surface of the block --it will leak(so will the stock system)

If the oil drain passage is clogged with debris you will have a leak (so will the stock system)

If the oil well is cut to the thrust surface too much oil will splash on the seal area --causing leaks.

Baisically if the job is done properly and attention paid to the details a seal will work --but so will the stock system -- 20 years from now will you be able to get a replacement seal if you need it ???--one made to match the modifications made to the crank and block

Most modern cars will start to have some leakage from their seals after 10-20 years --

-the rope seal in the front, and the slinger in the rear on the A will seep some oil from new, but age doesn't seem to bother them like can happen with rubber seals.
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:36 PM   #4
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: rear main seal

I have "Modern" seals on the front and rear of my engine and after a few thousand miles they leak like a seive.
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Old 12-04-2010, 09:39 AM   #5
glenn in camino
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Default Re: rear main seal

Thanks Guys
I think I'll stick with the stock system.
Glenn
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Old 12-04-2010, 10:31 AM   #6
BRENT in 10-uh-C
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Default Re: rear main seal

On a sidenote, I am gonna work with James Rogers and we are gonna find a way to unobtrusively & discreetly mount a PCV system to an 'A' engine to eliminate the oil "weaping". That is the biggest complaint I field on a freshly restored vehicle.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:10 PM   #7
James Rogers
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Default Re: rear main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida View Post
I have "Modern" seals on the front and rear of my engine and after a few thousand miles they leak like a seive.
Mike, if you get in touch with me next week , I may be able to help you with both the front and rear. It does involve some engine work but it will stop the leak.

On another note. The rope rear seals that are used in the rear main, where the slinger is not totally removed but cut to a smaller diameter, are no longer available. Feld Pro has discontinued them and do not make them any more. This includes all V8 and 6 cylinder Ford rear seals from flatheads to 1979 289 engines and the 55-57 Chevy rear seals.

The only alternative is the Burtz seal or the cork/neoprene seal from us and other suppliers. This means, if the slinger is only partially removed, you will have to remove the crank and have it removed and install one of the above. Lots of work.
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:25 PM   #8
Mike V. Florida
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Default Re: rear main seal

Quote:
Originally Posted by james rogers View Post
mike, if you get in touch with me next week , i may be able to help you with both the front and rear. It does involve some engine work but it will stop the leak.
will do!!
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Old 12-04-2010, 04:40 PM   #9
d.j. moordigian
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Default Re: rear main seal

James,

Have you tried the rope seals from Best Gasket Co. Much better than the Kevlar
rope junk you can't cut. Just a thought.

Dudley
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