The Ford Barn

vtwhead · 10-04-2023, 09:38 AM

Trying my hand on installing a new long grain top on a 31 coupe. So far it is going well and now it is time to install the hidem. Pretty straight forward but it appears from the first glance that making this stuff go around the rear corners without a lot of buldge is tricky.
Must be a way to get it to turn without a lot of distortion. Do you cut the inside corner? any advice would be appreciated before I get too committed.

Oldbluoval · 10-04-2023, 12:07 PM

The original overlay was a metal channel then round rubber in its channel.
The hidem is just going to do what it’s going to do. Sometimes better to let it get a bit warm in the sun and work as you go.
It’s sorta the nature of the beast. I would not cut it.

vtwhead · 10-09-2023, 11:08 AM

The top is on. Bit of a struggle but the sun helped a lot. As for the corners and the hidem, it fights you in the corner but in the end went around with minimal shrinking on the inside corner. Glad it is done.

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 10-09-2023, 11:46 AM

It has been my experience that all Hidem does is, is finish the corners however it doesn't keep the top from leaking because Hidem cannot hold the top fabric firmly against the metal lip that seals it from rain/water. The Hidem is going to bunch or wrinkle in the corner. Steam will likely help it stretch, but again, you are nailing in random intervals which is going to allow it to wrinkle.

Bob Bidonde · 10-10-2023, 09:11 AM

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The aluminum top molding on my 45B was installed with a lot of sealer under it. Shrinking the inside of the corner bends with some heat worked for me. I put the molding on in 1979, and it does not leak to this day. Also, the top material is in excellent condition.

By the way, there were 2 different top moldings used on the Coupe. The first one is solid with exposed nail heads like Bratton's 29511. The second one used on later 45B Coupes is like Bratton's 29510 and it uses a rubber bead seal to cover the nail heads. I used the 29510 type on my Victoria and I found that the rubber bead seal was not water tight, so I filled the bead channel with a sealer.

10-04-2023, 09:38 AM	#1
vtwhead Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Bennington, VT Posts: 81	new top on a '31 coupe Trying my hand on installing a new long grain top on a 31 coupe. So far it is going well and now it is time to install the hidem. Pretty straight forward but it appears from the first glance that making this stuff go around the rear corners without a lot of buldge is tricky. Must be a way to get it to turn without a lot of distortion. Do you cut the inside corner? any advice would be appreciated before I get too committed.

10-04-2023, 12:07 PM	#2
Oldbluoval Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Signal Mtn, TN (SE TN) Posts: 2,375	Re: new top on a '31 coupe The original overlay was a metal channel then round rubber in its channel. The hidem is just going to do what it’s going to do. Sometimes better to let it get a bit warm in the sun and work as you go. It’s sorta the nature of the beast. I would not cut it.

10-09-2023, 11:46 AM	#4
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,537	Re: new top on a '31 coupe It has been my experience that all Hidem does is, is finish the corners however it doesn't keep the top from leaking because Hidem cannot hold the top fabric firmly against the metal lip that seals it from rain/water. The Hidem is going to bunch or wrinkle in the corner. Steam will likely help it stretch, but again, you are nailing in random intervals which is going to allow it to wrinkle. __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .