Front brakes advice

[larrys40]

Purdy,
Wow! That backing plate looks like it got some wear on it at one time from the brake pin at the spindle bolt. Loose BP? someone grind to compensate for something?
Kind of an unusual wear pattern
All the best!
Larry

[Girl with wrench]

Purdy,

A million thanks for advice and pics. Understand everything you have said. Will blow dry bearings gently. Got the reason for chamfer, but how do you do that? A grind wheel, file, take to machine shop, or other? Thanks for warning that Andrews manual is not the last word. Yes, I regularly refer to both Snyders and Brattons for diagrams. Will examine the lower brake tracks just as you advise. Only problem is I am a ...
"Girl without welding torch"

[Girl with wrench]

Larrys40, I appreciate your advice and words of caution. I am eager to do as much as I can, but have a local guru on speed dial for guidance. The great thing about this site is I can learn so much here. Then when I have a question for the guru, I don't feel like a dim wit when talking to him. Saves getting on his nerves!

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by larrys40

Purdy,
Wow! That backing plate looks like it got some wear on it at one time from the brake pin at the spindle bolt. Loose BP? someone grind to compensate for something?
Kind of an unusual wear pattern
All the best!
Larry

,Larry, The tracks were ground with the tracks still riveted to the backing plate as it came from the factory. I think that the marks that you see is where the wheel on the cutoff tool that I used to level the tracks got against the backing plate when I ground the tracks. It was hot the day that I did them and I was in a hurry. It is just sloppy work but won't effect brake action and would be hidden when the shoes are installed. I only do my stuff and none of mine are show cars . I just posted this pic because it was handy and would give Wrench Girl an idea how the tracks need to look to avoid shoe drag against the bottom of the drum.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Girl with wrench

Purdy,

A million thanks for advice and pics. Understand everything you have said. Will blow dry bearings gently. Got the reason for chamfer, but how do you do that? A grind wheel, file, take to machine shop, or other? Thanks for warning that Andrews manual is not the last word. Yes, I regularly refer to both Snyders and Brattons for diagrams. Will examine the lower brake tracks just as you advise. Only problem is I am a ...
"Girl without welding torch"

Wrench Girl, you are very welcome. For a quicker job, I usually grind the lining with a bench grinder . A coarse file will do the job without stirring a lot of brake dust. Be sure and wear a dust mask to avoid breathing the dust either way. Not trying to tell you what to do, just a thought. Maybe the tracks won't be worn too badly. Usually it is trial and error with welding and grinding the tracks untill you get the shoes centered. Back in the day the much older guys have told me that they would just bend the ends of the tracks upward to raise the shoes for clearance. Bending the tracks can sometimes work but isn't the best way to go. A lot depends on whether you are going for a complete rebuild or just trying to get the brakes so that they will work for a get by untill you are ready to spend the time and money for a complete rebuild. If the brakes are pulsating as mentioned in an above post you may need to find better drums. Trial and error will tell the story as you go. Without actually seeing the parts in question I can only guess at what parts will have to be replaced. Model A's are very forgiving. Good luck and I wil ltry and answer any questions that I can. I've posted several times about brake setup on recent threads. Try doing a search on recent brake threads .

[hardtimes]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by Girl with wrench

Hardtimes - Yes, that makes sense.

To clean the bearings, can I soak in gasoline the old fashioned way? Maybe change the bath a couple of times? Then blast with air compressor?

Yes, that is the 'old fashioned way' ! And, I'm old fashioned, but there are easier ways to clean such these days. The point is...to ensure that ALL is removed from in/around bearings and races. After doing so, blow out with air , with caution, then give bath in dish soap water and blow out again. Then when dry, place in bearing packer machine and press in grease. Home made bearing grease packer (old fashioned) goes like this:
Place a golf ball size lump of wheel grease in your off hand. Then place bearing to be packed on the first finger of primary hand and hold in place with thumb. Cup off hand and pull bearing thru EDGE of grease..till grease shows up thru bearing. Then turn bearing quarter turn and repeat operation till bearing is FULL. When ready to install, I then coat outside of bearing liberally with same grease and install. I now use surgeon/latex/whatever gloves. Makes it easier on hands and less messy, as can change gloves often . Luck to you.

BTW...many are telling you good info about checking everything in brake system, especially with what was found in this one area. That to me is a given. I tried to stick with you question and immediate situation,eh

[Tom Wesenberg]

I always hand pack the bearings just as hardtimes said, except I use an old bread bag on my left hand. When the bearing is packed full I can just leave the bearing in my left hand and turn the bag inside out with the bearing inside. This way it's protected from dirt and bugs until it's needed.

I want my tracks to run straight, so I weld and grind as Purdy said. If you bend them, the brakes will move up or down as they wear and move outward. I have never tried to bend the tracks, but it seems like it would be very tough to do.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

To check for potholes in the cone inner race, just GENTLY pry out 1 roller, with a small screwdriver. It can be tapped back in, using a small brass hammer. All new bearings are a good idea, but they're EXPENSIVE!
Use a quality brand, HIGH TEMP DISC BRAKE GREASE! All greases are NOT equal, don't use "ACME" grease that was formulated for wagon wheels & RADIO-FLYERS!
Bill W.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I always hand pack the bearings just as hardtimes said, except I use an old bread bag on my left hand. When the bearing is packed full I can just leave the bearing in my left hand and turn the bag inside out with the bearing inside. This way it's protected from dirt and bugs until it's needed.

I want my tracks to run straight, so I weld and grind as Purdy said. If you bend them, the brakes will move up or down as they wear and move outward. I have never tried to bend the tracks, but it seems like it would be very tough to do.

Hey Tom,
Yeah, I've used your bread bag/plastic shopping bag idea often, until I found that the hospital type glove are cheap for 100 count....and I also roll them of onto the bearings as well. Even cheaper, a box of 500 ..called the 'clean ones'. Pollyethlene (thin tough plastic...like a clear see thru glove). I use these for even food prep, oil / grease changes and of course bearing packing /holding ! These are ideal for cheap model a guys, who won't pop for the surgical gloves !
BTW..for those who are younger and maybe still with good hands. You will eventually find out why old guys use hand protection when doing gas/oil/grease jobs !

[Dick M]

I recently rebuilt my brakes: woven shoes, cast drums, new rods and clevises/pins. I can agree with all of the above posts. I can only add it is so important to be sure your brake shoes are centered on the axle. This will require a brake centering tool. I find the best brake centering tool is sold by Snyder's. I used a tight fitting deep socket with an extension when I needed to adjust the roller tracks. You will get the same result as indicated above regarding the nickel and quarter if your brake shoes are not centered. Be patient and good luck.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

A friend cut away most of a front & rear brake drum & mounted a cheep dial indicator on the outside & it is a dandy centering tool! He welded a sleeve, with a bottoming ring, on the outside of the drums & the dial indicator just lifts out, to switch from one shoe to the other.
Bill W.

[Girl with wrench]

Great idea about using plastic bag or nitrile glove to pack the bearing, then turn bag or glove to wrap up the bearing. Genuinely a NEAT trick. Thanks.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

... All greases are NOT equal, don't use "ACME" grease that was formulated for wagon wheels & RADIO-FLYERS! Bill W.

You mean like this??

[Terry,NJ]

I'm with Purdy and Tom. I hadn't even heard anyone mention 'Arcing" brake shoes for a long time, until I got into Mod. A s. Like Purdy, I chamfer both ends of the shoe material as I install it. Not only on mod A s either. All my brake jobs. It helps with the fitting of the shoe to the drum. But I will say this, Take the new shoe and place it into the drum and just visually check the match of the shoe to the drum. It's usually off a little. If it's off a lot, maybe someone sold you the wrong shoes.
Terry

[Purdy Swoft]

Terry is right its best to lay the relined shoe inside the drum that you plan to use and see how it fits. If its off that much it is probably time to find better drums. Trying to arc shoes to a badly worn drum will just sand away most of the lining and still may not match up. There is oversize lining and reinforcement bands that can be used on steel drums.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

[QUOTE=Terry,NJ;967278]I'm with Purdy and Tom. I hadn't even heard anyone mention 'Arcing" brake shoes for a long time, until I got into Mod. A s. Like Purdy, I chamfer both ends of the shoe material as I install it. Not only on mod A s either. All my brake jobs. It helps with the fitting of the shoe to the drum. But I will say this, Take the new shoe and place it into the drum and just visually check the match of the shoe to the drum. It's usually off a little. If it's off a lot, maybe someone sold you the wrong shoes.
Terry[/QUOTE
The drums are probably TOO BIG!!
Bill W.

[Girl with wrench]

Thanks everybody. I'm reading all the advice. Will tackle the job this weekend -- well, at least get started. Stay tuned for lots more questions.

Girl with drop light