The Ford Barn

Alaska Jim · 10-18-2016, 07:39 PM

oilslickwillie, if you were living near me , I would have rebuilt it for you for just the cost of the parts. I have done this for a number of my friends, especially those who can't or are older than me. ( I am 66) a good parts man could have got you the correct kit with the numbers off the carb. if he knew what he was doing. sorry you had to put out the extra money. I hope it works out for you. just be sure you have a new fuel filyer on it before you get the fuel into the carb.---Jim

Oilslickwillie · 10-19-2016, 01:21 PM

Alaska Jim, thanks for the offer. The problem I was having is my 2150 did not have the tag on it. After talking to many people they all said the same thing, no tag, don't know what rebuild kit I needed. Apparently a 2150 Motorcraft has about 15 different kits. I don't know what year engine I have and apparently the starter has to be pulled to find the number. Due to an old war injury I'm not able to do that at this time. Would like to have my old carb fixed. I may just start taking it a part and clean it with the existing parts as best I can. I've never bought a knockoff carb before so not sure how well that will work. Reviews seem to like them so guess I will find out. I think it is just dirty. Wish you were closer too. Thanks.

Alaska Jim · 10-19-2016, 06:37 PM

I understand about old injuries. mine is not war related, but lately some days I can hardly walk. may end up trying back surgery again. hope you get to feeling better.

Oilslickwillie · 10-20-2016, 08:31 AM

Thanks Jim, had the back surgery and that made it worse. The war injury was with my neck, had surgery there also. Some days I can get under the car and some days I can't. Real frustrating when you need to get it worked on. When the new carb comes in and I get it running again I'll take it to someone and have them pull the starter so I can find out the year of my 302 engine. I'm thinking the engine is probably mid-70's. I guess I could guess on a rebuild kit that most of the parts would fit.

flatrod · 10-20-2016, 10:23 AM

Oilslick,
There is a small pad sticking out on the drivers side of the engine just below the head. That pad has the build date of the engine. It should look something like this 7R06B. It is stamped in not casted. 7 would be the year, R would be the plant the car was made at. And 06 would be the day, don't remember what the B was right now. Check that and see what is there before pulling the starter.

Oilslickwillie · 10-20-2016, 11:26 AM

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Thanks Flatrod, I'll try looking into that. It will still require me getting the car up and crawling under there. Will do that when I can.

Alaska Jim · 10-20-2016, 02:07 PM

I believe the "pad" -"flat spot" that Flatrod is talking about should be able to bee seen from the top of the eng.. and is part of the block, and can bee seen by looking just below where the bottom of the head meets the top of the block. it is possible that there may be some accessories in the way making it hard to see, depending on whether your vehicle has Power steering or other such things. it will most likely have some dirt, or oil, etc. on it depending on how clean you eng. is that will have to be wiped off. as Flatrod said the numbers are stamped, not cast so they are not going to "jump" out, and may be a bit hard to see. use a good flashlight, and maybe a mirror if there are things in the way. you should not have to get under the car.

Oilslickwillie · 10-20-2016, 02:34 PM

Probably the headers will block from up top.

Alaska Jim · 10-20-2016, 03:40 PM

I am not sure, as I have not looked in a long time, but I think that it is on the front , not the side where the headers are, but I could be wrong. I don't have any pictures to show , or I would. maybe some one else here can post a couple of pictures where the #'s are located. I don't even have a 289/302 head laying around to even look at anymore.

flatrod · 10-20-2016, 03:41 PM

Headers are no where near the front pad. The only thing that may be in the way is power street pump, or possibly the coil, if mounted to the front of the drivers side head. Its a under hood job the see these numbers.

Its stamped on the block not the head. But it is where the head and block meet.

Oilslickwillie · 10-20-2016, 05:18 PM

Went down and checked under hood and found some numbers on a piece protruding from front of engine block, about 1 1/2" long and 1/2" wide that read 6L1? (I think 5) = 6L15. Probably not where you are talking about because there should be more codes before that if I'm thinking right. I'll try again this weekend. Could it be on the block right above where oil pan mounts?

dmsfrr · 10-20-2016, 05:42 PM

(basic) Decoding Ford casting numbers, link...

http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html

Oilslickwillie · 10-20-2016, 06:10 PM

I found this chart for engine blocks earlier. Got to fine the 4 digit code that precedes what I found.

flatrod · 10-21-2016, 12:36 AM

The numbers I am referring to are stamped in numbers, not cast numbers. For the block casting number the starter will have to be removed.

You found them I think if they are stamped in. There will only be 5 characters on the pad I'm talking about. Based on your 6L15 I would say your engine was assembled on Nov 15 of 76 for a 77 model year car. I was thinking the second character was a plant code, but I think its the month of the year. The 5th character would be a plant code. Yours don't have it or its not visible.
If your intake is a Ford cast intake there will be a casting date on it towards the front. It is a 4 digit cast on number. If my thinking is right it will probably be something like 6K and day of the month, or maybe 6L but would have to be a number under 14.
In the early days of 289's I seen casting numbers and assembly dates only a day apart.
Also on the back of the block, starting in 68, there will be a stamped in number of the year (1 thur 0), plant code ( a letter), and the vin of the car it came out of. That is right behind the intake on a pad between the intake and the bell housing.

Oilslickwillie · 10-22-2016, 03:26 PM

Got the new after market carb, put it on and did not work well. Sending it back. Took my old carb apart and cleaned the valve seat and carb bowl, ports, etc., put it back together and now it's running again. I still need to find out my engine year. Will get it up on a rack because I have a new problem. I'll make a new post for it titled fuel problem. Thanks to all.

10-18-2016, 07:39 PM	#21
Alaska Jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 1,575	Re: Carb ID oilslickwillie, if you were living near me , I would have rebuilt it for you for just the cost of the parts. I have done this for a number of my friends, especially those who can't or are older than me. ( I am 66) a good parts man could have got you the correct kit with the numbers off the carb. if he knew what he was doing. sorry you had to put out the extra money. I hope it works out for you. just be sure you have a new fuel filyer on it before you get the fuel into the carb.---Jim

10-19-2016, 01:21 PM	#22
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Alaska Jim, thanks for the offer. The problem I was having is my 2150 did not have the tag on it. After talking to many people they all said the same thing, no tag, don't know what rebuild kit I needed. Apparently a 2150 Motorcraft has about 15 different kits. I don't know what year engine I have and apparently the starter has to be pulled to find the number. Due to an old war injury I'm not able to do that at this time. Would like to have my old carb fixed. I may just start taking it a part and clean it with the existing parts as best I can. I've never bought a knockoff carb before so not sure how well that will work. Reviews seem to like them so guess I will find out. I think it is just dirty. Wish you were closer too. Thanks.

10-19-2016, 06:37 PM	#23
Alaska Jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 1,575	Re: Carb ID I understand about old injuries. mine is not war related, but lately some days I can hardly walk. may end up trying back surgery again. hope you get to feeling better.

10-20-2016, 08:31 AM	#24
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Thanks Jim, had the back surgery and that made it worse. The war injury was with my neck, had surgery there also. Some days I can get under the car and some days I can't. Real frustrating when you need to get it worked on. When the new carb comes in and I get it running again I'll take it to someone and have them pull the starter so I can find out the year of my 302 engine. I'm thinking the engine is probably mid-70's. I guess I could guess on a rebuild kit that most of the parts would fit.

10-20-2016, 10:23 AM	#25
flatrod Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 291	Re: Carb ID Oilslick, There is a small pad sticking out on the drivers side of the engine just below the head. That pad has the build date of the engine. It should look something like this 7R06B. It is stamped in not casted. 7 would be the year, R would be the plant the car was made at. And 06 would be the day, don't remember what the B was right now. Check that and see what is there before pulling the starter.

10-20-2016, 11:26 AM	#26
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Thanks Flatrod, I'll try looking into that. It will still require me getting the car up and crawling under there. Will do that when I can. Last edited by Oilslickwillie; 10-20-2016 at 12:01 PM.

10-20-2016, 02:07 PM	#27
Alaska Jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 1,575	Re: Carb ID I believe the "pad" -"flat spot" that Flatrod is talking about should be able to bee seen from the top of the eng.. and is part of the block, and can bee seen by looking just below where the bottom of the head meets the top of the block. it is possible that there may be some accessories in the way making it hard to see, depending on whether your vehicle has Power steering or other such things. it will most likely have some dirt, or oil, etc. on it depending on how clean you eng. is that will have to be wiped off. as Flatrod said the numbers are stamped, not cast so they are not going to "jump" out, and may be a bit hard to see. use a good flashlight, and maybe a mirror if there are things in the way. you should not have to get under the car.

10-20-2016, 02:34 PM	#28
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Probably the headers will block from up top.

10-20-2016, 03:40 PM	#29
Alaska Jim Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Palmer, Alaska Posts: 1,575	Re: Carb ID I am not sure, as I have not looked in a long time, but I think that it is on the front , not the side where the headers are, but I could be wrong. I don't have any pictures to show , or I would. maybe some one else here can post a couple of pictures where the #'s are located. I don't even have a 289/302 head laying around to even look at anymore.

10-20-2016, 03:41 PM	#30
flatrod Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 291	Re: Carb ID Headers are no where near the front pad. The only thing that may be in the way is power street pump, or possibly the coil, if mounted to the front of the drivers side head. Its a under hood job the see these numbers. Its stamped on the block not the head. But it is where the head and block meet.

10-20-2016, 05:18 PM	#31
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Went down and checked under hood and found some numbers on a piece protruding from front of engine block, about 1 1/2" long and 1/2" wide that read 6L1? (I think 5) = 6L15. Probably not where you are talking about because there should be more codes before that if I'm thinking right. I'll try again this weekend. Could it be on the block right above where oil pan mounts?

10-20-2016, 05:42 PM	#32
dmsfrr Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2012 Location: Abq, NM Posts: 3,607	Re: Carb ID (basic) Decoding Ford casting numbers, link... http://www.mustangtek.com/FordDecode.html

10-20-2016, 06:10 PM	#33
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID I found this chart for engine blocks earlier. Got to fine the 4 digit code that precedes what I found.

10-21-2016, 12:36 AM	#34
flatrod Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Anchorage Alaska Posts: 291	Re: Carb ID The numbers I am referring to are stamped in numbers, not cast numbers. For the block casting number the starter will have to be removed. You found them I think if they are stamped in. There will only be 5 characters on the pad I'm talking about. Based on your 6L15 I would say your engine was assembled on Nov 15 of 76 for a 77 model year car. I was thinking the second character was a plant code, but I think its the month of the year. The 5th character would be a plant code. Yours don't have it or its not visible. If your intake is a Ford cast intake there will be a casting date on it towards the front. It is a 4 digit cast on number. If my thinking is right it will probably be something like 6K and day of the month, or maybe 6L but would have to be a number under 14. In the early days of 289's I seen casting numbers and assembly dates only a day apart. Also on the back of the block, starting in 68, there will be a stamped in number of the year (1 thur 0), plant code ( a letter), and the vin of the car it came out of. That is right behind the intake on a pad between the intake and the bell housing.

10-22-2016, 03:26 PM	#35
Oilslickwillie Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Mid-Missouri Posts: 147	Re: Carb ID Got the new after market carb, put it on and did not work well. Sending it back. Took my old carb apart and cleaned the valve seat and carb bowl, ports, etc., put it back together and now it's running again. I still need to find out my engine year. Will get it up on a rack because I have a new problem. I'll make a new post for it titled fuel problem. Thanks to all.