removing the oil pan

[FrankWest]

any cautions I should realize about moving the oil pan?

1.Drain oil
2. remove bolts
3. gasket
4. inspect
5. remove spark plugs
6. spin crankshaft slightly
7. clean pan
8. install new pan gasket "paint with motor oil"
9. replace pan, bolts
10. add new oil, and MMO too

[KGBnut]

I have a tip for putting it back in... remember to pull out the dipstick. I wrestled my pan in, only to find that I bent the dipstick up into the dip tray.

I also like to try and save the rope seals if they are in good shape and not leaking. Getting a new one in can be a pain.

Oh, and if you have trouble separating the dip tray, I like using a board and a big c-clamp. Put the board across the top of the oil pan, then slip the c-clamp through the oil pump opening, and under the dip tray. The other end goes over the board. Tighten the c-clamp to pull the dip tray up toward the board, and it will pop out.

Good luck!

Ken

[Mitch//pa]

disconnect battery

[Terry,NJ]

About the MMO! While MMO is great stuff, it is a solvent and will break down your fresh oil. I would put in the old oil and run it for a little while. I use it in the gas for an upper cyl. lube, I would only put it in the crank case a few miles before a change. Oh and as far as the drip tray goes, I was taught to slam the oil pan down on grass or cardboard and it makes the drip tray fall out on the ground. I did it once and it worked like a charm.
Terry

[roccaas]

Save your face. Buy the cheap full face plastic face shield at Harbor Freight. Something's gonna drip on your face even HOURS after you pull the pan. Wear safety goggles under the face mask, cause that gook is cancerous to mucous membranes (eyes, nose, etc).

[d.j. moordigian]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Geee......don't forget the oil pump.....

[Sparky]

You may want to install an oil pump retaining screw in place of the oil port plug, so the pump won't fall out.

edit: d.j. beat me to it!

[rocket1]

Install a magnetic drain plug while your at it,can't hurt.

[FrankWest]

Originally Posted by Sparky

You may want to install an oil pump retaining screw in place of the oil port plug, so the pump won't fall out.

edit: d.j. beat me to it!

Will the oil pump drop out? Where os this retaining screw?

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by FrankWest

Will the oil pump drop out? Where os this retaining screw?

Yep...it falls right out!
Under the "search", at the top of the page, I found this for you.......

..............oil pump install need little help.......................

[Marshall V. Daut]

Did I miss "remove engine splash pans, left and right" on your list? Many "restored" Model A's are missing these items, so your car may not even have these to remove. But they should be there for optimum electrical system performance, as well as cooling assistance. They help conduct current along the frame for charging the battery, and help cooling by directing the heat under the hood down and out. If they weren't important to the Model A's health, you can be sure that cheap old Henry Ford would not have installed them. They cost all of 50 cents each new from a Ford dealer, probably not much more than they cost Ford on the assembly line. Multiply that $1.00 cost per vehicle by 5,000,000 Model A's and you can see that Ford could have saved himself $5,000,000 by NOT installing engine splash pans. He must have thought they were pretty doggone important to kiss a free $5,000,000 (in 1928-31 dollars) good-bye! If your Model A is missing these items, please install them. Your electrical and cooling systems will thank you.
Marshall

[Marshall57]

When removing the oil pan, you will lose the oil that is usually stays in the dip tray. After start up the oil pump will have to pump enough oil to fill it and get it flowing to the other parts of the engine. To get the oil moving to the right places sooner it might be a good idea to remove the distributor and pour about a quart down the distributor hole to fill the dip tray before starting the engine.
On a new engine this is essential but on an engine that has had a good oiling just before the oil pan was dropped, it might be just a good idea and cheap insurance.
Also take care to use exactly 5 quarts and after it has run just a bit check the oil taking note of where it is on your particular dip stick. There have been cases where even though there is the required 5 quarts in the oil pan, the dip stick reads low. This has led to a problem of trying to keep the car over full and the car reacting by promptly tossing out the extra oil and the owner then refilling thinking it is low. This misery is easily avoided if you are at the point of putting oil in an empty oil pan.
Later when changing oil, not all of the 5 quarts will come out due to the dip pan holding some oil so adding five quarts will over fill it just a bit and the engine may toss it out, knowing were the proper level is will help later.

[Purdy Swoft]

Most of what has been said but ... to do a better job and make the job easier on yourself , first remove the engine . There is no better way or easier way. If you don't have an engine stand, Harbor freight has them at low cost. First, drain the oil. after the engine is mounted to the stand, right side up, remove the oil pan so that the oil remaining in the dipper tray doesn't spill into the engine when it is turned over. Remove the valve cover and outside oil drain tube. Remove any remaining oil from the valve chamber the best that you can so that it doesn't make a mess when the engine is turned . Get some large pipe cleaners and insert them in the oil passages to keep crud from entering the passages while you clean out the valve chamber , this was Bill Ws idea and a very good one .Turn the engine over on the stand so that the crankcase is easily accessable . If the oil pan gasket remains stuck to the block and the gasket and rope seal is in good condition, you can save time and money by reusing them. You can also prevent the risk of causing new leaks if you make mistakes when installing a new gasket. If the engine had leaky gaskets to start with, then replace them. I prefer the thick paper gaskets and have less problems with them . While the pan is off and everything is cleaned up, now is a good time to check and adjust rod and main bearing clearance. I set bearing clearance at .002 on an engine overhaul . If a cork oil pan gasket had been previously used, it will be best to hammer and dolly the pan rails . cork gaskets tend to squeeze down when the bolts are tightened, usually bending the pan rails in the process. Just a few thoughts. Good luck .

I've removed and replaced oil pans with the engine in the car a few times over the years and truth be known , it is a difficult and messy job .

[dlfrisch]

Not sure, but someone suggests (maybe Les Andrews) to use silicone gasket maker on the new cork gaskets. I just did that and by the time I fussed around and lined up the bolts, the gaskets swelled up and as I tightened the bolts down, the gasket mushed out in spots. I let up on the bolts for a few hours and then squeezed the cork gasket back in place and then re tightened down the bolts. It's holding OK, but I am not satisfied. I ordered another pan gasket set today. I will grease the new gasket and try again.

[700rpm]

I agree with Purdy (as usual) that the easiest way to remove and replace the pan is with the engine out, but that isn't necessary in every case, and is a PITA if that's all you want to do.

The only suggestion I would add to those above is turn your wheels fully to the right. This will get the tie rod put of the way.

[Brentwood Bob]

holding the pan gaskets in place is easier for me if I use string at 6 to 8 places to keep the pan gasket in place until the pan bolts are started.
Some use contact cement, others heavy grease.
Bob

[Growley bear]

Silicone sealer is not a wise choice for cork gaskets as they tend to move all over the place when pulling the pan up. I like the paper gasket. Also don't be concerned about the oil in the dipper tray. It is supposed to be there. I have one that someone many years ago drilled 3/32 holes in to drain. I know it was many years ago as when I pulled it out of a running engine it also has small holes rusted through. Lots of great help and suggestions here. Good luck, just take your time and it will work out fine.

Chet

[Big John]

Using a small scissor jack to lift the pan slowly into position will help... better than trying to hold pan manually...also check to see if oil return tube on rear main bearing is present... go slowly and you can do it without pulliing the engine...lots more work to do that...gud luk.....

[Dick M]

Should you want to remove the pan with the engine in the car, you might consider taking (4) 1-1/2" 5/16"-18 bolts and cut the heads off. Make a slot across the top of the bolt with a hacksaw or die grinder. Place two bolts on one side of the block and two on the other side of the block. Place your gaskets against the block using the studs as a guide. I use a light coat of sealant to hold the gasket to the block. Carefully install the pan to the block using the studs as a guide. Once the pan is on all four studs and not making contact with the block, I use a floor jack with a piece of wood atop the jack to raise the pan to the block and hold it in place. Put in some pan bolts to hold the pan. Remove the jack. You can then remove the studs with a screwdriver and finish bolting up the pan. You can save the studs for the next time.

[sethkestenbaum]

I've documented (with photos) my adventures in dropping the pan on my blog. I made some errors along the way, but it may be helpful to look over. Good luck.