1930 Repo Headlight Conduit/Sockets Fit

[akruzer]

I'm now installing the headlights on my 1930 project. I had no original conduit or socket parts on the car so had to get replacement parts. The problem is that the conduit connector is not locking onto the headlight socket. Out of frustration I very slightly filed down the end of the socket for the knurl on the conduit to be able to be pushed up and locked around the socket, but because of the cheap construction of the aftermarket parts it just falls off... even after being locked into place. I'm wondering if anyone can lead me to decent aftermarket parts?

As a note, all parts packages said they were for a 1930.

[Banditorama]

I can tell you that the ones I got from Battlefield Model A were the same way as what you described. So avoid them

I ended up using the ends off the conduits that were on the car when I bought it. I have no idea or way of knowing what brand they were. The difference seemed to be where the metal was punched on the side to make the indent that slides into the socket was square, deeper, and possibly a little higher (if I'm remembering correctly) than the ones that I bought

[CarlG]

I was having the same problem with mine. I bought the "expensive" conduits from Berts and they worked just fine.

[bobbader]

Carl G hit the possible problem. There are 2 different repos available and the price reflects the quality difference. The cheaper ones look good and are far less expensive, but they don't usually fit all that well. If you can, retrieve your records and see what you paid for these. The good ones are now in the area of high $30s - 40's for both headlight conduits and the horn conduit. Availability may be a problem as the manufacturer of these conduits embarked on moving his business from one state to another and may not yet be in production mode on some items he makes. The other problem could be the socket assemblies as manufacturers vary there as well, but start with the quality conduits.

[TomInCologne]

Originally Posted by CarlG

I was having the same problem with mine. I bought the "expensive" conduits from Berts and they worked just fine.

ordered!

[Badpuppy]

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Originally Posted by CarlG

I was having the same problem with mine. I bought the "expensive" conduits from Berts and they worked just fine.

Ditto. I replaced mine with the "expensive" ones from Bratton's. Perfect fit, including length. (Cheapies were too long.)

[Zax40]

I hate having to buy stuff twice. I'm in the same boat. Mine come apart at the slightest bumping of the connector

[w.michael]

I know this isn’t what you asked about, but the terminals on the ends of your wires shown in your picture are shaped wrong. They should be flat on the end where they contact the spring loaded terminals in the socket. They should not be pointed “bullet” connectors. When many people have problems with this connection, they blame the problem on the repro socket assemblies, but the real problem is the terminal ends.

W. Michael

[Bob C]

Correct wire ends on the right.

[Ivan in southeast va.]

I have found that when "economy" parts are offered alongside more expensive parts, don't go cheap.

[David in San Antonio]

Buy once, cry once.
I’ve never regretted “paying too much” for the right part or a higher quality tool.
The trick is knowing which one is actually better.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by Zax40

I hate having to buy stuff twice. I'm in the same boat. Mine come apart at the slightest bumping of the connector

As a newcomer to the Model A community 6 years ago and doing a rather extensive restoration, I cannot tell you how many times I have purchased the same part two or more times!! Either because there is genuine crap out there versus quality parts..... And because occasionally I screwed something up the first time and had to do a re-do.


The good news is that I became more proficient at things. I have learned to be really conscious of fitment.