The Ford Barn

Russell Reay · 07-21-2022, 02:17 PM

I need to replace the horn rod before putting the roof on my huckster. The attached photos show the four pieces to be used, but the instructions are seriously lacking in adequate detail, and I haven't found anything better through the search function or google. The instructions do not acknowledge the existence of a brass tip already attached to the wire. As I studied the components, I drew the attached sketch and need to know if this is correct. Even if it is, in the lower left corner the instructions say to cut flush after solder. What is to be cut? Should i assume that upon completion the lower terminal cup and lower brass cup are in constant electrical contact ? It would appear that the purpose of the horn button is to short the upper brass contact to the horn rod. Is that correct? Sorry to be so dense, but these parts are too small to replace by fabrication, and shipping is time consuming and expensive.

40-A Twins · 07-21-2022, 03:37 PM

There should be an insulator for the bottom end and none of those parts appear to be it. I made this insulator from a piece of hard plastic because the old one had broken and gone like yours. the insulator keeps the cup centered so it won't touch the tube and cause a short. Unsolder the old brass cup and clean the old solder off in case the new cup is a poor fit. This cup is the final solder location and any protruding wire will need to be clipped off and filed off smooth.

swo4rd · 07-21-2022, 03:38 PM

hey Russell, my son and his friend did this while i oversaw and the job is easy. Pull the wire through the brass end on the end that goes into the spider ...your third picture...grab it with a pair of pliers and push the brass fitting down into the rod...once this is tight, solder the hole up and then clip the wire that is sticking out. Test for continuity with the button depressed, closed when it is not depressed and if it works, then install it in the steering arm...its amazing how these analog things were engineered and still work today...we did that four years ago and it is remarkable how strong the horn circuit still is.
If continuity is not there, then go to rule two...do it again, only this time right.

Russell Reay · 07-21-2022, 03:45 PM

It is so hot my brain is fried. Attached is my sketch for critique or approval

rotorwrench · 07-21-2022, 04:43 PM

The bottom end has to be electrically insulated from the rod. The insulation is stripped back for the fit into the bottom contact with the insulator piece and cup. The wire length is likely a bit long so it can work for the different length light switch rods used in the model A years. Some rods are an inch longer than others but the way the spider fits on the bottom is the same on all of them.

I have to assume that the end with the brass terminal installed is the top but i don't know. I haven't done one of these yet but I've looked at all the diagrams and that's the way I see it anyway. The horn switch is grounded at the top to the steering shaft to operate the horn. There should be a very thin brass hat bushing that fits in the top of the steering shaft. This tightens the fit of the horn/light switch rod where it enters the hollow steering shaft. Some of the new reproduction horn rods are a bit too tight to fit in there correctly. The horn/light switch rod has to remain loose enough in the steering shaft so that the switch will remain in a fixed place otherwise turning the steering wheel will also try to turn the horn rod and switch the lights on or off during a turn.

You never know what problems you might encounter with stuff like this and especially where reproduction parts are concerned. They aren't always the same dimensions they should be.

woofa.express · 07-21-2022, 06:38 PM

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This fixed it.

I was tired of difficulties with the horn and light contacts so I changed the setup. I set up a small panel attached to the steering column to which I mounted the horn and light switch along with a blinker switch for the newly installed blinker system. I installed a 12V system and regret not installing the new and excellent starter system. I don’t plan on making any other changes. I love it just the way it is now.

Ray in La Mesa · 07-21-2022, 08:30 PM

Your sketch looks right to me.

Russell Reay · 07-22-2022, 06:03 AM

Thanks, Ray. Now I need to find someone who knows how to solder. I am good with plumbing and a propane torch, but I have no experience with this fine electrical work. Sorry for all the difficulties with posting the pdf. I didn't understand how it appears on the computer screen

rotorwrench · 07-22-2022, 02:38 PM

A good electric soldering iron and some resin core solder is all a person needs for most electrical stuff. I always keep a wet towel of some type to keep the tip clean.

07-21-2022, 03:37 PM	#2
40-A Twins Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2020 Location: Oregon City, OR Posts: 121	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire There should be an insulator for the bottom end and none of those parts appear to be it. I made this insulator from a piece of hard plastic because the old one had broken and gone like yours. the insulator keeps the cup centered so it won't touch the tube and cause a short. Unsolder the old brass cup and clean the old solder off in case the new cup is a poor fit. This cup is the final solder location and any protruding wire will need to be clipped off and filed off smooth.

07-21-2022, 03:38 PM	#3
swo4rd Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Charlottesville, Virginia Posts: 364	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire hey Russell, my son and his friend did this while i oversaw and the job is easy. Pull the wire through the brass end on the end that goes into the spider ...your third picture...grab it with a pair of pliers and push the brass fitting down into the rod...once this is tight, solder the hole up and then clip the wire that is sticking out. Test for continuity with the button depressed, closed when it is not depressed and if it works, then install it in the steering arm...its amazing how these analog things were engineered and still work today...we did that four years ago and it is remarkable how strong the horn circuit still is. If continuity is not there, then go to rule two...do it again, only this time right.

07-21-2022, 04:43 PM	#5
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,440	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire The bottom end has to be electrically insulated from the rod. The insulation is stripped back for the fit into the bottom contact with the insulator piece and cup. The wire length is likely a bit long so it can work for the different length light switch rods used in the model A years. Some rods are an inch longer than others but the way the spider fits on the bottom is the same on all of them. I have to assume that the end with the brass terminal installed is the top but i don't know. I haven't done one of these yet but I've looked at all the diagrams and that's the way I see it anyway. The horn switch is grounded at the top to the steering shaft to operate the horn. There should be a very thin brass hat bushing that fits in the top of the steering shaft. This tightens the fit of the horn/light switch rod where it enters the hollow steering shaft. Some of the new reproduction horn rods are a bit too tight to fit in there correctly. The horn/light switch rod has to remain loose enough in the steering shaft so that the switch will remain in a fixed place otherwise turning the steering wheel will also try to turn the horn rod and switch the lights on or off during a turn. You never know what problems you might encounter with stuff like this and especially where reproduction parts are concerned. They aren't always the same dimensions they should be.

07-21-2022, 06:38 PM	#6
woofa.express Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Tocumwal, NSW, Australia Posts: 1,751	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) This fixed it. I was tired of difficulties with the horn and light contacts so I changed the setup. I set up a small panel attached to the steering column to which I mounted the horn and light switch along with a blinker switch for the newly installed blinker system. I installed a 12V system and regret not installing the new and excellent starter system. I don’t plan on making any other changes. I love it just the way it is now. __________________ I know many things, But I don't know everything, Sometimes I forget things. And there are times when I have a long memory.

07-21-2022, 08:30 PM	#7
Ray in La Mesa Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: La Mesa Ca Posts: 1,166	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire Your sketch looks right to me.

07-22-2022, 06:03 AM	#8
Russell Reay Senior Member Join Date: May 2021 Location: NH/ VT Posts: 336	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire Thanks, Ray. Now I need to find someone who knows how to solder. I am good with plumbing and a propane torch, but I have no experience with this fine electrical work. Sorry for all the difficulties with posting the pdf. I didn't understand how it appears on the computer screen

07-22-2022, 02:38 PM	#9
rotorwrench Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 16,440	Re: Rebuild horn button and horn rod wire A good electric soldering iron and some resin core solder is all a person needs for most electrical stuff. I always keep a wet towel of some type to keep the tip clean.