From this>to this - dash

[burner31]

Here's some of what I did this week-end.
A little bit here, a little bit there, still have a long way to go.

It's not perfect, it's not done (will it ever be?) but it looks a little bit better than it did before.

[Rex_A_Lott]

Hey, its a "build thread". We dont get too many of those here, at least not nearly enough.
Looks Good, thanks for taking the time to post the pics.
Good Luck!

[captndan]

In image #2 is that the correct layout for the floorboard panels?

[burner31]

Those are the originals, I cut and made my own, fit perfect I might add.

[burner31]

Yes correct layout

[Brian SATX]

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Looks Good.

[JohnB15632]

This looks really great!!! I hope to get there some day!!!!

[burner31]

Originally Posted by JohnB15632

This looks really great!!! I hope to get there some day!!!!

Just a temporary rattle can paint job, got tired of looking at that ugly primer dash.
Once I get all the mechanicals done I'll move on to the cosmetics, do the little body work needed and paint everything, including the dash, at one time.
Then I'll put the interior in.
With any luck this will take me a few years.
If you take a step here, and a step there, before you know it you've covered a lot of distance, stick with it John, you'll get there.

[Anteek29]

Sweet...thank you for sharing!

[aford193031]

Looks good, what did you seal the floorboards with?

[burner31]

Originally Posted by aford193031

Looks good, what did you seal the floorboards with?

Used a sealing wood stain

[JOHN CT]

Originally Posted by burner31

Used a sealing wood stain

Looking good! I'm always happy to see another model A coming back to life!!

[duke36]

one suggestion which may help with battery removal is to cut the bottom floor board into 2 sections (at or near the left of the opening in the firewall plywood as a guide adjusted for maintaining the frame screws and cup washers and keeping the battery plate) .Buy an earthquake foundation or framing 2" or so x 1/8" thick x whatever length strap at the big box or hardware store, drill some holes for panhead wood screws and attach under the floor right section cut as a shelf for the left section. Then drop in the left section and use 3 pan head sheet metal screws through the top of wood and drilled into the strap. Some folks tap the strap for machine screws if a thicker strap is used. Some times the matting or carpet can be folded back to remove the left section to access the battery.

[burner31]

Can you post some pictures of how you cut your floor up to help with battery removal.
I would like to see how this is done without weakening the floor structure.

[Y-Blockhead]

Keith, What I believe rip94611 is describing is similar to the "Floor Board Removal Plate" available from Snyder's http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/fl...-removal-plate

Installation Instructions; http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/Co...10671-3737.pdf

I have one in my '30 Town Sedan and it really does make battery maintenance easier because you only have to remove half the floor board. And since I have carpet I can just roll the carpet towards the passenger side instead of removing it over the shifter and parking brake. Plus I have a 12v battery so it also is easier to check electrolyte levels.

[duke36]

yes, Y is correct.Thanks for the part info.which I was unaware of. I did mine long ago, before the vendors like Snyder's provided a plate which is a little stouter than what I fabricated for a couple of bucks.My plate extends all the way to the end of the left section to add a little extra support for the wood next to the tranny cutout .

[burner31]

Here are the instructions.

[pgerhardt]

IMHO if you are changing batteries so often you need to modify the floor to get better access you have some electrical problems! I can check and top off the water levels just fine through the stock opening.

[Y-Blockhead]

Sometimes I wonder if people even read other's posts before responding...