New here....Car won't start

[lightflyer1]

I have a restored 1935 Ford with a flathead V8. I broke my leg over a year ago and due to several surgeries and down time I haven't started it since the break. It ran beautifully then. I fully charged the battery and tried to start with no success. It turns over but doesn't fire at all. I removed the fuel line connection to the carb to insure fuel was pumping and it is. Reconnected the fuel line. Tried priming it with gas and then tried a shot of starting fluid and it doesn't fire at all with either one. Turns over okay but won't fire a cylinder. Checked spark at plug and not getting any fire to the plugs. I have a solid state voltage regulator on it. Any help on what could be the issue? I have always used Sta-Bil when fueling.

[47COE]

After sitting for that long, there is a very good chance that your points have oxidized enough to prevent them from working.

Take the distributor out and touch up the points with a point file.

Back when I didn't drive my truck at all during the winter, it was an annual spring chore to remove the distributor and clean the points before it would start.

Tom

[G.M.]

I would put a jumper wire from the NEG post on the battery to the wire connection on the top of the coil. Don't leave this wire connected for more than 1 minute without the engine running. If the points are closed with the engine not running in 4 or 5 minutes it will burn out the windings in the coil. I would also make sure fuel is getting through the needle valve. It is in the fitting on the carb the fuel line screws into. The needle valve will sometimes stick after sitting but yours didn't fire with starting fluid so I doubt this is the current problem why it won't fire. What happens when they sit for a long period of time is the points get a thin oxide film on them making a weak spark. Most of the time the weak spark will fire with starting fluid and often it takes a few shots to keep it running. Once it has started and run they usually start and run good after that. The starting fluid and the jumper wire should do the job but you may have to remove the distributor and clean the points. G.M.

[lightflyer1]

Thank you for the advice! Can you point me to a thread that describes removing the distributor?

[koates]

Hi there, another item to check when a car has been laid up is the two flat points springs in the distributer. Often one breaks from sitting tensioned on the cam lobe for a long time. This is quite common. Regards, Kevinn

[lightflyer1]

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Originally Posted by G.M.

I would put a jumper wire from the NEG post on the battery to the wire connection on the top of the coil. Don't leave this wire connected for more than 1 minute without the engine running. If the points are closed with the engine not running in 4 or 5 minutes it will burn out the windings in the coil. I would also make sure fuel is getting through the needle valve. It is in the fitting on the carb the fuel line screws into. The needle valve will sometimes stick after sitting but yours didn't fire with starting fluid so I doubt this is the current problem why it won't fire. What happens when they sit for a long period of time is the points get a thin oxide film on them making a weak spark. Most of the time the weak spark will fire with starting fluid and often it takes a few shots to keep it running. Once it has started and run they usually start and run good after that. The starting fluid and the jumper wire should do the job but you may have to remove the distributor and clean the points. G.M.

I have a wire to one of the mounting screws on the drivers side. Is this the one? Can the contacts be accessed without removing the distributor? Will electrical contact cleaner like deoxit be useful? Removing it seems to be:

Remove the caps from each side.
Remove 3 screws and wire/vacuum tube/coil.
Remove 3 bolts holding distributor in and remove.

When reinstalling insure it isn't 180 degrees out from initial position.

[Lawson Cox]

You've got it. When removing and replacing the distributor, put a piece of cardboard between the radiator and distributor to keep from bending any fins on the radiator. After you have it off, clean the points by using a point file or some light sand paper to clean any corrosion off of the points. Be careful to note the position of the lug on the back of the distributor with the slot in the end of the cam shaft. If you are careful and not move the lug, the distributor should go right on without any trouble.
Before you put the bolts back in, reach your fingers into the distributor and jiggle the rotor to make sure it is seated properly. Keep us posted on your progress.

[lightflyer1]

Thanks again!