Radiator 1928 model A / AS questions

[Jlpb]

This is my first post.
I have acquired an original model A or AA doodling tractor conversion. Engine # corresponds with July 1928. Radiator, cowl are 1928-29. Rear end axle is truck with 5 lug on 6 7/8" pattern bud wheels 8 .25 - 20 tires. Front wheels are wire with V8 hubcaps. 4 speed transmission with pto. I got engine running good but over heats in minutes. Radiator has set open for years and seems to be blocked. You now know everything I know. I would like to buy new aluminum radiator. But don't know what I need. Is the A & AA radiators the same? If not how do I determine which I have? Any ideas on how to clean it out? And is there away to identify the rear axle, transmission,etc.?
This is a neat part of history from a hard time in my parents life. And has been a lot of enjoyment for me and my grand kids.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

[spdway1]

A and AA radiators for 28/29 are the same.
Without pictures, it would be very hard to identify anything else. Take a picture of the shift tower too.

[Jlpb]

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[Jlpb]

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[Jlpb]

Thanks Speedway1
Let me know if you need more

[jrelliott]

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You could pull the radiator and try back flushing. Turning upside down and forcing water from the bottom with the cap off. You could try vinegar afterward or take to a radiator shop to have professionally cleaned and check for leaks.

[Keith True]

If the cap was left off the radiator the blockage in there will be the least of the problems.The upper inlet of the block is a highway for mice to get in and set up condos in the block.You can't just flush the block,everything that was carried in through the big openings won't go out the same way.Everything will float up,and get stuck on the openings going up to the head.You will be removing the head to blow everything out.Acorns are notorious for this.You will also most likely find mouse nests knotted up in the water pump impeller.A new or cleaned radiator won't help with a plugged up block.For a tractor I would opt for a repaired and cleaned radiator over a new one.

[spdway1]

Those wheels are not the ones on your vehicle correct? Please take an actual picture of the rear wheels because with that rear they would be a different design. Take a picture of the top of the shifter near where your hand goes.

[Jlpb]

I have removed radiator and back flushed it upside down. I believe radiator shop will cost more than new radiator.

[Jlpb]

I do believe the top of radiator has been open for many years. I was told pump was rebuilt. I had feeling that a mouse did set up home in the radiator. But never have thought to being in the head. Is there any way to tell without removing head?

[Jlpb]

Those wheels are what is on it. The shifter has a small lever on left under knob. When flipped up it allows shifting into reverse. To the right and down. I will try to get pictures latter today.

Thanks

[nkaminar]

Modern aluminum radiators cool well but several people have reported that aluminum radiators for Model A's don't fit well. A new radiator will set you back about $1,000. I cannot believe that a radiator shop would charge nearly that much to flush out the old one.

Flush out the engine too. As others have said, vinegar helps. It is a mild acid. But if the mouse have made a nest in the engine it will take some pressure from a hose. Make an adapter at the outlet neck (goose neck) at the top for the hose.

[Jlpb]

That is the plan this afternoon. I will take radiator to shop and see.
Thanks

[Joe K]

Obviously an accumulation of "parts."

The engine may be 1928, but the rear end and 4 speed transmission are the Borg-Warner "bevel gear" rear from 1930-31 Model year.

If you get further into this transmission, check out "issues" that can develop. One addressed at Vince Falter's most excellent description of "smile crack failure" at https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/aatranscracks.htm

Another issue not mentioned is the fact that the transmission top on the 4 speed "doesn't shed water." Rainwater can follow down the shifter lever, puddle in the top, make its way around the shift lever ball, and end up in the bottom of the transmission case. Building up over time it can "freeze" in temperate climates and crack the case. This would be the more classic "smile crack" which involves almost the entire front wall of the case and encircles from left to right across the bottom. No smiling by owners - and the crack is resistant to repair.

Interesting PTO take-off on yours.

Joe K

[Joe K]

I can't quite see it, but I suspect the radiator is the period replacement "honeycomb" radiator.

Rather than made with upper and lower boxes connected by "tubes with fins", the honeycomb is constructed of flat sheets of something (possibly copper) soldered together at the edges to make a closed flat-ish oval, and then bent on a form to make the characteristic "honeycomb" shape when lined up against each other.

The honeycomb radiators at their time were the "cheap replacement" - and actually afforded good cooling - as long as the radiator stayed clean and non-corroded.

The problem is time and situation has not been kind to the honeycomb design. The oval tubes tend to get plugged either from deposits from the water, or even things like mouse turds, and once plugged, the tubes/channels can't be "rodded" as could be done with a more conventional radiator.

Generally a honeycomb once found ineffectual - is a "throw-away." Which more or less outlines its original design conception. Cheap radiator - use it until you can't - then go buy another to replace it.

Which is where you're at now - except the next honeycomb is not available, and I'm not sure anyone is doing "cores" this way.

I don't know for sure as I have not tried them but today's "aluminum" radiators may be the same marketing mode.

There may be a fortunate here in that aluminum is "near" iron in the galvanic series - and probably why aluminum engine blocks seem to survive pretty well even with appended iron connections and parts. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion

Joe K

[Ray in La Mesa]

I've had a replacement honeycomb core in my '28 pickup since 1973 with 87,000 miles on it. It has always cooled superbly & I have it flushed every time I put a new engine together (3 times). I actually had to put a 160* thermostat in to get it to run hot enough, guess I got lucky. The honeycomb in our yard art '28 coupe/pickup barely cools just at idle.

[Jlpb]

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[Jlpb]

I posted more pictures

[Jlpb]

Are we talking a model truck or madelAA truck for transmission and rearend?

[Jlpb]

I called the last owner
He fells radiator before had a cap on it.