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Old 11-24-2014, 09:51 PM   #1
Bruce Adams
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Default Head and Engine Puller

Does the $100 head puller sold by the vendors still require a lift or pulley system?
What is its advantage over just using the spark plug eye bolt tools combined with an engine lifter to pull an engine head?

Thanks
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:13 PM   #2
Rich in Tucson
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

No, this type of puller serves two functions - pulling the head by bearing force on head studs and as a fixture to lift an engine with the head attached. You need no pulley or crane to pull a head with such a device, but be aware that you can still
destructively rip the top off of a rotten, corroded head with this or the other "gaaaarunteed 100% success" puller that has no the engine lifting option.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:17 PM   #3
ctvpa
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

Please refer to this tool, Search TECH: Homemade Head Puller that works! about the best to evenly pull a stuck head. I have see more heads cracked by putting a tremendous amount of tension and finally cracking. This tool is a way to evenly lift a head. They are available from Gord. Baverstock 180 7th E Owen Sound Ontario Canada. The tool has been featured in the Model A Times.

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Old 11-24-2014, 10:20 PM   #4
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

So you've just got back from the swap meet where you've scored an ultra rare 4 banger speed head that you can't go another minute without giving it a home on your A. You strut around the house with this new prize held high over your head and your family thinking you're insane for buying another piece of car junk.

Just the piece you needed, but the motor you're putting it on hasn't been opened up in quite some time. You know it's going to be a struggle getting that old cast iron head off.




Here is a great home made way to pop the top on that L-Head motor and give it a new look and a faster life!

Step 1: Find some old spark plugs for that head that you don't plan on using anymore. DESTROY THEM! They are evil and stare at your woman too much anyways. Remove the centers and run some 6 inch long bolts up through them, threads on top. Make sure the bolt head doesn't slide through the spark plug, but is also small enough to go into the spark plug hole when you screw the spark plugs in. You might wanna go with some nice quality bolts here if this is a tool you are going to use a few times.

Now screw these into the head.



Step 2: Using the head gasket you are going to put on the motor with your cool new heads (or the one you're replacing that's been blown for a while but knew it would suck to change..) Mark the location of the stud holes on a heavy plate of steel. I would go with at least 1/2 inch thick plate. Also, mark the holes for the SECOND and THIRD Spark plug. If you've got extra time, pinstripe the plate while you're at it for that extra touch of cool. Now, Drill the holes in the plate that line up with the studs and spark plugs.


Step 3: Slip the plate over the bolts sticking out of the hollowed out spark plug bodies. These bolts will have fallen down a little ways into the block, so lift these bolts up, snug to the spark plug and load them up with 8 or nine large flat fender washers. Now put the nut on top and tighten down until the bolt is above the nut a little bit.

Using more 6 inch long bolts that are no larger in diameter than the head studs, (they should be able to go through the head) Place them in the holes in the plate that line up with the studs in the block. Put the nuts under the plate, making "table legs" for the plate above the head.






Step 4: Now, using a box wrench to hold the "table leg" nuts on the bottom of the plate, Use a socket to tighten the bolts on the plate. Make sure that your bolts are staying over the head studs and not slipping off, ruining the threads on the studs in the block. Also be careful not to damage the end threads on your "table leg" bolts, or they will be stuck to your plate, making storage of this new tool a little more awkward. Work around the plate keeping the plate generally level, or parallel with the deck of the block. The head should start moving up and away from the block! Soon this low compression cast iron heap will be out of the way! No longer will your flatty motor be like all the other kids on the block.






Try to get the head as high as possible away from the block. This makes your life easier. I still had to stand over the engine compartment and lift straight up once I removed the plate. But once the head is off, you can inspect the engine, put down a new head gasket, and install that new speed head or blown head gasket and then you will be the envy of all your friends!!







(Credits go out to Joe G. for making this head puller and all the Dallas Model A guys who taught me creative ways to work on this junk!)
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Last edited by Jason in TX; 08-10-2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:21 PM   #5
RonC
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

The head puller plate applies pressure on the top of the head studs while pulling up via two spark plug holes. The screw in studs only are used for lifting the engine while the head puller does both
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:48 PM   #6
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

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I like that head puller!! I want one.
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Old 11-25-2014, 03:34 PM   #7
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

The maker's email is [email protected] Gord. Baverstock 180 7th E Owen Sound Ontario Canada. He also has one for the early V8
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:51 PM   #8
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Default Re: Head and Engine Puller

our club bought one of Gord's head pullers for the the tool crib. It has pulled a lot of heads. Worth the money, especailly for a club to keep on hand.
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