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Old 11-24-2014, 07:53 AM   #1
Flop
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Default 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Well I ve been half way around the world ,went to hershey and now just back from Virginia dropping off Johns truck .



Started with what looked to be an ok truck . until i started working on it /got it back from the blaster of course .



this truck took some good hit and was filled with bullet holes along with bad work .



and the doors dont fit from an after market wood kit that was installed



rear crossmember . had brass, wood and bondo mashed into it .





test fit

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Old 11-24-2014, 08:13 AM   #2
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

everything sitting in place



a nicely cut heater hole



this was the story of this trucks life ... bad gobbed on mig welds



as you can see the back was also hammered



cutting out bullet holes







now time to build a whole truck

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Old 11-24-2014, 08:16 AM   #3
Barry B./ Ma.
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Yes Flop, I know what you mean. We did a 31 for a guy that supplied a body in primer that he bought at a swap meet, you wouldn't believe how bad it was underneath and was actually twisted by 2 inches in the subfloor. Poor guy didn't want a full restoration and we fought that every step of the way, doors missed shutting by inches and it took hours with a portapower to get it in shape so the lesson learned is be real careful buying a body in primer. Your project looks much better and I know it will be done right. Good to see you're back by the way. Good luck on the project.
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:59 AM   #4
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

this truck was a tad bit of a fighter . wood was the biggest mess . and getting the doors to fit . Barry my new rule is if it comes with the doors not hanging they dont fit !!

full skins













we rolled out the whole panel in the english wheel then rolled the bead at th bottom



all welded up



making cab corners



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Old 11-24-2014, 09:02 AM   #5
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

door problems /wood problems



repair video . click to play


got it



heavy damage to the body lines . had to pull the inner out



floor rivited in



in primer no mud









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Old 11-24-2014, 09:08 AM   #6
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

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Wow you do great work.
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:27 AM   #7
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

All I can say is DAMN!!!!!!!!! What a talent!!!!!!
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Old 11-24-2014, 09:56 AM   #8
Tom Wesenberg
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Nice work. See how quick and easy that was.

Wish you were my neighbor.

That's the reason I would only buy something that had good metal to start with. I don't have the tools nor talent for such repairs.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:01 AM   #9
marc hildebrant
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Flop,

Nice to see a true Craftsman at work !

Marc
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:08 AM   #10
Keith True
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Here in N.H. it's hard to find a cab that nice to start with.In other parts of the country people would consider what you started with to be junk.
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Old 11-24-2014, 10:31 AM   #11
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg View Post
...That's the reason I would only buy something that had good metal to start with. I don't have the tools nor talent for such repairs.
My thoughts exactly!
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:17 AM   #12
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Gosh!

A virtuoso in A36 carbon steel.

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Old 11-24-2014, 01:36 PM   #13
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry B./ Ma. View Post
Yes Flop, I know what you mean. We did a 31 for a guy that supplied a body in primer that he bought at a swap meet, you wouldn't believe how bad it was underneath and was actually twisted by 2 inches in the subfloor. Poor guy didn't want a full restoration and we fought that every step of the way, doors missed shutting by inches and it took hours with a portapower to get it in shape so the lesson learned is be real careful buying a body in primer. Your project looks much better and I know it will be done right. Good to see you're back by the way. Good luck on the project.

Let me start by publicly saying nice job Flop (which he & I are friends on Facebook so he already knows I have already been singing his praises on FB.).

Barry, just like what Flop just found out, I honestly believe that is the normal protocol for all these truck cabs. We were in the same situation on a couple too. One good thing is that the new sub-rails are now being reproduced which are much closer than what we were dealing with using Tudor platforms.

Also, Flop is correct in that the wood's shape/dimensions are a vital part of making things fit, ...and often times the wood doesn't fit the sheetmetal which means nothing else wants to fit after it is installed! Again, Flop your customer should be proud of your efforts!! Below is one that basically collapsed on us just taking it off the frame. These poor cabs were not that strong to begin with, and they all require a lot of work to make everything fit properly. A 28-E30 cab is even worse!!

















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Old 11-24-2014, 04:45 PM   #14
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

I didn't know the more correct subrails were being reproduced for the pickup.20 years ago I had to buy Tudor rails,then cut them down to fit.I have another cab to do now.I've been collecting parts for it for 10 years now.I bought new Tudor subrails maybe 5-6 years ago,but didn't get around to doing it.If I can just buy the closer ones now I would rather.I'll have to scope them out as I'm planning to do that one this winter.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:23 PM   #15
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Nice job Flop!!!! You have amazing talent!!!
There must be something special in Pittsburg's water supply that gives you this talent .
How about sending some of that water (and talent) to me in the eastern part of the state .

Seriously, I love watching you work your magic. Keep it coming.
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Old 11-24-2014, 06:31 PM   #16
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Hey Flop, just one question for you on the cab corner you made.
What method did you use to "roll" the bottom edge under the sub rail?
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Old 11-24-2014, 07:57 PM   #17
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Now I have to get my cutting torch out and make a new heater hole in the firewall and braze some decorations on the cab !
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:30 PM   #18
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

wow amazing! I hope mine turns out half as good...

Quick Question:

I purchased a 28-29 cab for my AA thats in relatively decent shape. Some old repairs and such need addressed but its complete and structurally sound with a good gas tank to boot!

Anyways several panels need replaced but lets take the cowls as an example: Did Henry paint all these pieces separately before riveting them together or was there any kind of primer/coating on the insides to prevent rust? How do you guys do it when replacing cowl panels/firewalls etc.

Obviously there needs to be clean metal to spot weld parts back in but im hesitant about leaving bare metal touching bare metal at seams/joints...
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:40 PM   #19
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

I was wondering the same thing as SeaSlugs.

While I like to be as original as possible, prevent any future rust would be my primary goal.
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Old 11-24-2014, 08:55 PM   #20
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Default Re: 1930 Ford Truck . Yup Im Still Alive .

Flop will come along and give his advice, but for us, we install panels and use a spray can of primer made just for this application as we go. With that said, most of those areas originally were not coated and did/do rust which is why we are replacing now.

A trick we have done is mix up a thinned batch of epoxy primer and pour it into the area after the repairs have been made. We use a paint roller tray to collect the excess as it drips away. Then re-pour in another area. Repeat until all hidden areas in the sills have been covered with the epoxy. This is a time consuming process, -especially if the body is not on a rotisserie. With a rotisserie, using a spray gun with a narrow spray fan is sufficient.
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