Replacing distributor bushings

[Desert Toad]

My distributor shaft has enough sideways wobble that I can open and close the points by moving it with my hand.

My question is do I have to remove the head to replace these? Seems like the easiest way to remove the old bushing.

Thanks!

[Great Lakes Greg]

There isn't a bushing in the head. Are you referring to the two bushings in the distributor body itself?

[Big hammer]

You will need to remove distributor body from engine head.Do a search
topic has been covered many times,good reading before distributor over haul!

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Desert Toad

My distributor shaft has enough sideways wobble that I can open and close the points by moving it with my hand.

My question is do I have to remove the head to replace these? Seems like the easiest way to remove the old bushing.

Thanks!

No, just remove the distributor from the cylinder head. Then disassemble the distributor as normal. To remove the bushings, use a hacksaw or jig saw blade to split the bushing into two halves. Just remember that you will need a .500" bushing driver and a reamer or hone to finish the bushing size to match the shaft. This is something an automotive machine shop can help you with on their pin-fitting machine if you cannot find the proper tools. Good luck.

[Vic in E-TN]

Desert Toad
Tom Endy of the Orange County Model A Club has written a good procedure for replacing the bushings. Look in the "Stickeys" at the top of the page to get to the listings. I just did 4 of them - probably a lifetime distributor supply. Be careful removing the distributor. Some of the vendors have a good tool for removal.

Vic

[Tom Endy]

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The worn bushings are in the distributor and it is easily removed from the engine without having to remove anything else. Replacing the bushings would seem to be a straight forward task. Unfortunately this is where many distributor housings are cracked and rendered scrap.

There was an article in a recent publication of the Restorer that described a method of replacing the bushings without damaging the housing. This article is posted on the web site of the Santa Anita A's of Arcadia, California at santaanitaas.org. On the home page put your cursor on "Technical Reference", my name will appear below, click on it and it will bring up a new menu. Scroll to "Electrical", and then to "Distributor Cracks" and click. The article is a pdf file and you can download and print it out.

Tom Endy

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Tom Endy

The worn bushings are in the distributor and it is easily removed from the engine without having to remove anything else. Replacing the bushings would seem to be a straight forward task. Unfortunately this is where many distributor housings are cracked and rendered scrap.

There was an article in a recent publication of the Restorer that described a method of replacing the bushings without damaging the housing. This article is posted on the web site of the Santa Anita A's of Arcadia, California at santaanitaas.org. On the home page put your cursor on "Technical Reference", my name will appear below, click on it and it will bring up a new menu. Scroll to "Electrical", and then to "Distributor Cracks" and click. The article is a pdf file and you can download and print it out.

Tom Endy

Very nice article Tom!
I have a question;.... @ the top bushing, the register for the top
plate. What kind of clearance ?.......I would think .002" - .003"?

[Purdy Swoft]

You can buy a new distributor housing from Snyders with new bushings installed, reamed and ready to use for $63.95 part #A-12130-H page A-153 . I also recommend a new upper shaft, pin and sleeve. This will save work and probably money in the long run . The reamer that you will need if you install bushings in your old distributor will cost $ 55.50. Don't count on finding a local shop that will be equiped or have the knowlege to ream or hone the bushings in your old distributor if you install bushings yourself, I couldn't . A sloppy job of reaming or honing the bushing will put you back where you started plus what ever fee that they charge.

It won't be necessary to remove the head but the distributors, more times than not will be stuck in the head. Distributors pullers are sorta expensive . If you break the old housing it won't be a problem if you use a new pre reamed distributor housing . Good luck .,

[Keith True]

You can get the old bushings out with a 3/8 pipe tap.Just wind it in until it has a good bite,then tap the whole thing out with a brass pin.A lot of times the bushing will start to spin while winding in the tap.

[Terry, NJ]

This is hard to grasp at first, but the distributor body is pinned in place. Do not try to twist side to side if its stuck, It only moves one way, up! Use a kroil or WD 40 type of fluid and gently drive the blade of a screwdriver or some other wedge between the distributor body and the head. This should lift the Dist. body upward the 3/16" necessary to clear the pin. When reassembling it, use a Neverseize type compound in the bore to prevent it rusting in place. Neverseize will become your friend!
Terry

[Desert Toad]

Too many projects happening around here lately (can one have too many?) Finally had time to replace the bushings, just wanted to stop back by and say thank you!

Between Les Andrew's book, this forum, and this link everything began making sense. https://www.mafca.com/downloads/Tech...eminar2012.pdf

A friend of mine owns a machine shop, which was a great help. He made a tool to press out the old bushings, one of which had to be machined out with a lathe, and cut a new sleeve pin. All the play I had is now gone, and Frank is running like new!

Thanks again!

[RonC]

I believe the fiber washer #4 goes on the top not on the bottom as shown in the diagram.