Trans removal jack stands

[fins2nv]

This morning I began the process of readying my '30 coupe for a new Mitchell transmission. I got a lot done and I am just about to the point where I can drop the rear end and torque tube. I am running into issues with jack stand height. The two I have in front appear to be high enough, but none of my other stands are close to being able to reach the frame in the rear half of the car. Any suggestions on a high enough jack stand. I also wonder how much room is needed to drop the transmission and bell housing and get it out from under the car. It seems to me if you lower the transmission and bell housing on a floor jack, the car would have to be very high to clear underneath.

[Fred K-OR]

Maybe you could put the jack stands on a 4 x 6 or bigger block . Don't have answer on getting the transmission out.

[Jon]

I fabricated some boxes that are about 12" - 15" square. If you do that make sure they are bigger than the base of your jack stands by a few inches all around and that they are not just made out of plywood.

[CarlG]

I bought 6-ton jacks to support the rear from the frame. They work great. I didn't feel that blocking up the shorter jacks was all that safe. Cheap insurance to get the jacks the correct size.

Transmission Jack for the tranny itself.

PS: Read up on the safety issues with the rear spring and how that should be handled. If you don't have a spring spreader, beg, borrow, or steal one. It may save your life.

[C26Pinelake]

I am sure my mechanic has chopped blocks off the end of the larger railway tie. It appears to be 8 by 10 inches.
Wayne
P.s. The neighbor has two pieces of hickory stump about 15 inches in diameter by 10 inches thick !

[billwill]

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blocks Dont use cidner or cement lo blocks

[tbirdtbird]

yes avoid cinder or cement blocks they have no strength on the sides at all and will collapse

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by fins2nv

This morning I began the process of readying my '30 coupe for a new Mitchell transmission. I got a lot done and I am just about to the point where I can drop the rear end and torque tube. I am running into issues with jack stand height. The two I have in front appear to be high enough, but none of my other stands are close to being able to reach the frame in the rear half of the car. Any suggestions on a high enough jack stand. I also wonder how much room is needed to drop the transmission and bell housing and get it out from under the car. It seems to me if you lower the transmission and bell housing on a floor jack, the car would have to be very high to clear underneath.

If you are fitting a Mitchell O/D, why do you want to take the transmission out? It's not necessary.
There is no need to take the rear spring off the axle housing either.
You will not regret your decision to fit one of these O/Ds - they transform the car.

[FRANK PKNY]

You don't have to jack the front just block the front wheels very good front and back side both sides. then jack the frame to take pressure off the spring. Loosen and remove nuts on the rear center of the spring jack the body till the spring is free of it's saddle, roll the rear back on the tires after removing the clam shell put a short length of chain around the drive shaft just behind the clam shell to the frame just to keep it from crashing to the floor. of course you need to remove the brake clevis pins to roll the rear back. you can then remove the transmission. when using jack stands also cut some large wooden dunnage to bridge up to the frame in this mannor your not solely depending on the jack stands. be extra safe don't look good after having a car fall on you! When you install the drive shaft back into the transmission do not repeate do not put your fingers in the clam shell while someone pushes the rear back into position. They sell a tool for this , I just made one out of some flat stock 3/16x1" a pair of tongs used for cooking works to but don't ask your wife permission , (they get upset when you return them with a little grease on them). Ask me how I know all this stuff? Frank pkny

[Patrick L.]

Put the shorter stands under the front axle and beg borrow or steal [ maybe even buy] taller ones for the rear and put them on the frame.
The rear end can be dropped with spring attached and slid out from under the car. The wheels may need to be removed if the car isn't high enough.
The transmission is light enough to be handled pretty easily. If it won't come out from under the frame in the middle it may need to be slid to the rear.
Changing the transmission isn't too bad of a job, its just a pain getting to it.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

If you are fitting a Mitchell O/D, why do you want to take the transmission out? It's not necessary.
There is no need to take the rear spring off the axle housing either.
You will not regret your decision to fit one of these O/Ds - they transform the car.

An O/D ? I thought he said he was changing the transmitter.

[fins2nv]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

If you are fitting a Mitchell O/D, why do you want to take the transmission out? It's not necessary.
There is no need to take the rear spring off the axle housing either.
You will not regret your decision to fit one of these O/Ds - they transform the car.

No, I am not installing an overdrive. I am installing the Mitchell transmission.

[fins2nv]

I have the Les Andrews book that gives a step-by-step on how to remove the transmission and how to remove the rear end. I took out the shift tower, the emergency brake lever and the clutch and brake pedals. I have the front on jack stands. My next step was to move to the rear, jack up the back of the car and set the frame on stands so I could begin disconnecting the brake lins and removing the rear. That's when I noticed that my stands wouldn't even begin to reach the frame.

Also, I will not be removing the rear spring. It will remain attached to the axle.

Maybe I will have to cut some large chunks of wood and set that jack stands on them.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by fins2nv

... I will not be removing the rear spring. It will remain attached to the axle...

Actually, that's the way I did it.

I only put that precaution there based on what Tom Endy and others have said about the spring being vulnerable to flying apart once it has been removed from it's safe cradle.

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by fins2nv

This morning I began the process of readying my '30 coupe for a new Mitchell transmission. I got a lot done and I am just about to the point where I can drop the rear end and torque tube. I am running into issues with jack stand height. The two I have in front appear to be high enough, but none of my other stands are close to being able to reach the frame in the rear half of the car. Any suggestions on a high enough jack stand. I also wonder how much room is needed to drop the transmission and bell housing and get it out from under the car. It seems to me if you lower the transmission and bell housing on a floor jack, the car would have to be very high to clear underneath.

Block the front wheels with heavy chocks.
Place Jack stands under the frame rails in front of the rear wheels as far back as you can. Using a floor jack under the banjo raise the rear and remove both rear wheels, slide the jack stands back again as far as you can, then lower the car onto the jack stands Then using the floor jack to support the differential,use a heavy spring spreader, remove shackles and brake rods from the rear end, and the universal shaft bolts then slowly lower the axle to the floor while your helper holds the drive shaft up and pull the unit backwards until the drive shaft releases from the universal.and lay the driveshaft on the floor.
Place a piece of plywood on the floor under the trans/bell housing. Pull them back to un-spline the drive gear and with a strong helper lower the unit to the plywood on the floor. (I did this alone standing inside a 2 door sedan with seats and floorboards removed) Then drag the plywood out with the trans/bell housing on it. I would hope you are going to replace the clutch, pressure plate, throw out and flywheel pilot bearings also while it's all apart.

[SeaSlugs]

Originally Posted by C26Pinelake

I am sure my mechanic has chopped blocks off the end of the larger railway tie. It appears to be 8 by 10 inches.
Wayne
P.s. The neighbor has two pieces of hickory stump about 15 inches in diameter by 10 inches thick !

Gotta watch setting a jackstand on an end cut of wood like that. if its fresh wood it should be OK but if its got some age to it the wood can start to seperate and crumble apart at the rings especially if its soaked up any thing like gas, kerosine, oils, etc.

[fins2nv]

Okay fellows. Jack stand issues have been resolved. I just had to do some deep thinking...something I haven't had to do much of in the last two years since I retired.

I had my biggest stands on the front frame, by the rear motor mounts. I took them out and put another set under the front axle. I took the big set to the back and they fit under the frame just fine. Tomorrow I will disconnect the brake rods, remove the wheels and disconnect from the transmission. Maybe I will get this done by the end of the weekend.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I may be back. It ain't over yet.

[29spcoupe]

When I remove the rear end from a Model T, I set the frame on tractor-trailer jack stands. These can be raised to almost 4 1/2 feet. I then remove the rear end with radius rods, torque tube, wheels intact and just roll it out from under the frame. Can this be done with a Model A? Regards, John

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by fins2nv

No, I am not installing an overdrive. I am installing the Mitchell transmission.

Oops, sorry, my bad.

[1crosscut]

Here is what I do for adding height to jack stands when needed.

Cut a 2"x10" and a 2"x4" 12 3/4"s long.
Cut a piece of 3/4" plywood 12 3/4" square.
Using 2 1/2"" screws attach the 2"x4" and 2"x10" to the plywood.
Put another matching piece of 3/4" plywood over the 2"x4" and 2"x10" making a "sandwich".
Add another set of 2x's (off set from the first two so the joints don't line up) and one more sheet of plywood. Make sure that you have a plywood "cap" on the top and bottom of the stack!
This way you end up with plywood on the bottom, 2x's, plywood, 2x's and plywood on the top.
You will need to nip off a bit of the screw tips that will extend out of the 2x's on the first layer. After that the length of the screws will not be a problem.
Set your jack stand on this. Very stable and will not split like logs, rail road ties etc...
You can make several sets and stack two or even three stacks together for added height.