What's left to check?

[Skeezixx]

Two weeks ago I pulled my 29 roadster about 10' out of the garage to change an overhead light. When I started it up again to pull it back in it ran for a few seconds then stalled.....repeatedly.

Suspecting fuel flow problems I checked the screen in the sediment bowl which was clean. I removed the fuel line at the carb and had good flow.

I am running a modern Zenith tractor carb which, till now, never gave me a problem. I removed it and replaced it with a known good original Zenith. The car wouldn't even start. I then disassembled another known to be good spare Zenith 2 and sprayed it's insides with carb cleaner, floral wire, air etc.. I put it on and it didn't start. A friend with a 30 Tudor drove up and allowed me to remove his carb (still hot from running) holding it with a towel. I installed it on my car and it popped and coughed but didn't start. I replaced my Zenith tractor carb and it would run for a few seconds then stop again.

The timing was spot on but that didn't stop me from setting it yet again. The car had new points and condenser about a month ago but being desperate I changed them also using my spares still in sealed Snyder's bags. No difference. I tried three distributor caps. nothing. The plugs, Champion 3Xs, looked very clean.

I resorted to Les Andrews red book where he mentions leaking manifolds causing problems. I inspected the gaskets but saw no obvious evidence of a leak so I put my torque wrench on all the bolts and they were all torqued to 30 lbs.

I'm flummoxed guys. Does anyone have any idea what I should check next?

[Mitch//pa]

do you have a continuos strong blue spark???????

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

do you have a continuos strong blue spark???????

Good question. I'm not at the car now but I'll check. At which point? The coil, the points, the plugs?

BTW: About 4 months ago I left the key on and had to replace the coil so it's relatively new.

[Mitch//pa]

start with checking it at the end of the coil wire to a head nut when it is not starting

[Fullraceflathead]

If you left the Key on and fried the coil the points most likely are damaged as well.

[Mitch//pa]

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Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

If you left the Key on and fried the coil the points most likely are damaged as well.

he states that the coil was replaced after leaving the key on
but not sure if that inlcd points also

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Fullraceflathead

If you left the Key on and fried the coil the points most likely are damaged as well.

X2...as if points were closed , when coil was fried, other damage (points/cond) should be suspect for damage as well

[pooch]

Hook a timing light to coil wire and wind motor over and check for an even flashing of light .

[Patrick L.]

The timing was spot on but that didn't stop me from setting it yet again. The car had new points and condenser about a month ago but being desperate I changed them also using my spares still in sealed Snyder's bags. No difference. I tried three distributor caps. nothing. The plugs, Champion 3Xs, looked very clean.
end quote


Sounds like they were changed.

As said, check for spark. Like Mitch said, hold coil wire 1/4" from good ground and spin the engine. If there is spark, thats not your problem. If there isn't then thats your problem and you need to start at the beginning by looking for 6v from the beginning all the way to the points and a good ground thru them.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I would check for spark first. Also the plugs might look good but might be fouled from the short drive out of the garage. Hold the coil wire 1/4" out of the distributor cap and see if it starts. If it does, let it set there and reach full temp, then slowly push the wire into place and hope the plugs keep firing.

[Fred K-OR]

Gas valve not open enough???

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would check for spark first. Also the plugs might look good but might be fouled from the short drive out of the garage. Hold the coil wire 1/4" out of the distributor cap and see if it starts. If it does, let it set there and reach full temp, then slowly push the wire into place and hope the plugs keep firing.

To go along with what Tom said, a short piece of vacuum line will work for that. Just an old trick to save use of an extra hand or a zap and resultant banging of the head on the hood.

[Skeezixx]

Points-new
Coil- 5 months old (sparking when grounded near a head bolt)
Condenser -new (two tried)

I have another set of 3Xs I can try but the ones in there are sparking when removed and grounded against the head.

The only modification in the timing link is that I installed a Nu-Rex automatic advance gadget about a year ago. If it malfunctioned and got stuck on full advance or such perhaps that's my problem.

If none of the regular fixes work (so far not) Then I guess as a diagnostic test I'll remove the Nu-Rex gizmo and see if there's a difference this weekend.

Stay tuned (pun intended)

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would check for spark first. Also the plugs might look good but might be fouled from the short drive out of the garage. Hold the coil wire 1/4" out of the distributor cap and see if it starts. If it does, let it set there and reach full temp, then slowly push the wire into place and hope the plugs keep firing.

This is about the only thing I haven't tried but I'll give it a go!

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by pooch

Hook a timing light to coil wire and wind motor over and check for an even flashing of light .

I bought a timing light timing kit and read somewhere I needed a 6V timing light. Is this true (for both your suggestion and timing). I have an old 12V one.
(somewhere around here I have a timing light from a 50s BMW motorcycle. I have been waiting to unearth it before using the timing kit).

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Fred K-OR

Gas valve not open enough???

I have remembered to turn on the gas valve often enough during this latest tribulation that it can be excluded as the problem.

[Synchro909]

Tighten the left hand rear axle nut!!!!

[Kahuna]

When you switched carbs, did you take a moment and make sure fuel was flowing when the carb(s) were disconnected?
Just a thought

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Kahuna

When you switched carbs, did you take a moment and make sure fuel was flowing when the carb(s) were disconnected?
Just a thought

Yep because they all flooded

[Mitch//pa]

maybe the mice built a condo in your exhaust and plugged it solid