Light Problem

[Walt Ebie]

Now that my charging dilemma is solved , it's time to move on to the next situation. Prior to resolving the charging problem, turning on the parking lights was fine but going to the headlights would blow the fuse. Now, the cowl lights, taillights and brake lights work fine and turning on the headlights does NOT blow the fuse. But when you switch them 'on' they show only very dim light, the ammeter shows a max discharge and it drags the engine down to stalling out until you switch the lights off, then it runs fine again. I did check the headlights and they show a good ground so what's up? Bad light switch or maybe a short somewhere else?

[H. L. Chauvin]

In lieu of 80 year old electrical guessing, the best thing I can think of is a thorough diagnosis from the battery (+) & (-) with an analog multi-meter to detect "where" whatever is occurring.

Quit guessing & change your thinking from defensive thinking to very easy & simple offensive action:

1. With a copy of a "wiring diagram" & a "yellow marker", start checking (+) & (-) at battery cables.

2. Carefully follow "every" electrical wire & "every" electrical connection for proper voltage, & after found "OK", mark it in "yellow".

3. The problem "always" will be found on an electrical connection or electrical wire "not" marked in yellow.

Sounds like either a corroded (+) or (-) connection just waiting to be cleaned, or something hot just barely touching ground.

Just hope this helps -- it does not take that long to do & will save lots of guessing time when you have a wiring diagram & a yellow marker because you can actually "see" your progress, "see" diagrammatically what "is" working & avoid "re-checking" the same things over & over because you forgot what you already checked.

[Mike V. Florida]

You still have a short in the wiring, just not a dead short.

[Joe K]

The best wiring diagram EVER. Originally published in a Dykes Manual in the 1930s.

http://www.webjunk.com/modela/wp-con...amcolor2sm.jpg

Now go to Harbor Freight and buy a VOM (Volt-Ohm Meter) for small money (possibly ZERO money if you have the right coupon) and go to town.



$5.99 list. You can find 20 or 25 percent coupons off online at http://www.promopro.com/online-coupo...pon-74192.html

Joe K

[H. L. Chauvin]

FWIW: I have gone through several cheap digital multi-meters that broke; however, just one experience is that this one from Wal-Mart, Home Depot, etc., can easily "take a brutal licking & keep on ticking" -- have used two (2) of these for years.

Suggestion: For Christmas, just get one to keep in your Model A & tell your wife you are getting her one to store in her pantry because it probably will get misplaced in your shop. (Worth a try!)


Ge 50952 14-range 6-function Analog Multimeter, Nonrecording

$13.62


14-range 6-function analog Measures AC & DC voltage, current, resistance & battery condition Great for testing batteries Measures within 5% accuracy Designed for home & hobby Yellow UL listed.




Hope this helps.

[Tom Wesenberg]

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The problem is always in the last place you look and find the short, so start there first.

I would start by removing the plugs at the base of each headlamp, then see what the ammeter shows when the lights are turned on. Repro contacts here often have too large a diameter, and often touch each other or touch ground.

Another place to look is the headlamp focus screw on the rear of the shell. I've heard some people say they had some which were so long they touched the socket and shorted to ground.

[H. L. Chauvin]

Just one (1) experience:

For years members of Model A religions condemned "all" new reproduction headlight sockets & recommended going to swap meets or e-bay to buy originals headlight sockets which were getting as rare as fur coats made with frog hair.

On a recent total electrical Model A wiring installation with all new wiring I noticed my original headlight sockets were loaded with questionable re-soldering repairs.

In going against this often repeated reproduction headlight socket heresy, I call Mr. Walt Bratton for his opinion.

He agreed many new headlight sockets in the past were troublesome; however, he said he had a headlight socket manufacturer that produced "new" headlight sockets for the past seven (7) years, & after selling hundreds during seven (7) years he had never received a single complaint.

I ordered a "new" pair from Mr. Bratton, soldered a ground wire on to each, & had nothing but satisfaction with same.

Hope this helps someone who may need new headlight sockets.

[Joe K]

Hope this helps someone who may need new headlight sockets.

And don't forget to remind them to get correct styled bullet ends for the wiring harness - not the "faux" bullets that many harnii (plural for harness?) seem to have.

Wait - I just did.

Remind that is.

Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Just one (1) experience:

For years members of Model A religions condemned "all" new reproduction headlight sockets & recommended going to swap meets or e-bay to buy originals headlight sockets which were getting as rare as fur coats made with frog hair.

On a recent total electrical Model A wiring installation with all new wiring I noticed my original headlight sockets were loaded with questionable re-soldering repairs.

In going against this often repeated reproduction headlight socket heresy, I call Mr. Walt Bratton for his opinion.

He agreed many new headlight sockets in the past were troublesome; however, he said he had a headlight socket manufacturer that produced "new" headlight sockets for the past seven (7) years, & after selling hundreds during seven (7) years he had never received a single complaint.

I ordered a "new" pair from Mr. Bratton, soldered a ground wire on to each, & had nothing but satisfaction with same.

Hope this helps someone who may need new headlight sockets.

same experience here

[Walt Ebie]

Thanks, all.....I first 'unplugged' both headlights, started it up and all was well - turning the light switch to all positions with no 'lugging' of the engine. Then I checked the pins on the ends of both left and right cables and that looked okay, too - @6-7v on each one - one set for low beams and one for high, so then I looked at the sockets. First problem: On the left light, the plug that holds the wires in place is half gone, which could allow that pin to contact the metal side of the socket. Second Problem: on the right side the pins and plug looks okay but when I tried to plug it back in, the socket just pushed into the shell. I could get it back but there's nothing left to hold it in place. So I guess I'm in line for new plugs and sockets. But check me on this: according to what I see in the Andrews books, the only was to get to the socket and replace it is to go in through the front - remove the rim, lens, reflector and all. Is that so? Seems like the hard way but if so, I'll just chalk it up to another 'learning experience.'

[Tom Wesenberg]

Removing the bulb/rim assembly is easy. Just pull the bar towards the rear and down, then carefully pull the rim forward at the bottom. When you get it an inch or two forward, lift it up to unhook the top.

I almost forgot to mention, you MUST remove the focus screw at the rear of the shell first.

[Joe K]

I almost forgot to mention, you MUST remove the focus screw at the rear of the shell first.

Am I remembering right? If you remove the bulb the reflector slips off the headlight socket and socket can stay behind in the shell if held by the screw?

That is the Hi-lo beam in the foci of the reflector. The smaller twolight bulb goes with the reflector and is removed when you have access to the back of same.

Its been a while...

Joe K

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, actually I do it the way Joe just mentioned for most repairs. You only need to remove the adjustment screw if you do repairs to the socket, which was my last job on my left headlamp a year ago.

[Walt Ebie]

Okay, guys....thanks again! A new set of headlight plugs fixed the 'short' problem - I now have headlights and no blown fuses. Also took some new lens retainer clips to replace the old ones that had rusted away to just a few random pieces. So what's next? Nothing urgent but I do want to get into the windshield wiper. It will wipe but only one wipe at a time and then stop. So there's another winter project.The car has never been in the rain or snow so the wiper isn't a big problem - I'd just like to have everything working, whether I use it or not.

[ericr]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

Just one (1) experience:

For years members of Model A religions condemned "all" new reproduction headlight sockets & recommended going to swap meets or e-bay to buy originals headlight sockets which were getting as rare as fur coats made with frog hair.

On a recent total electrical Model A wiring installation with all new wiring I noticed my original headlight sockets were loaded with questionable re-soldering repairs.

In going against this often repeated reproduction headlight socket heresy, I call Mr. Walt Bratton for his opinion.

He agreed many new headlight sockets in the past were troublesome; however, he said he had a headlight socket manufacturer that produced "new" headlight sockets for the past seven (7) years, & after selling hundreds during seven (7) years he had never received a single complaint.

I ordered a "new" pair from Mr. Bratton, soldered a ground wire on to each, & had nothing but satisfaction with same.

Hope this helps someone who may need new headlight sockets.

HL, not to butt in, but my experience was that one also has to have quality flexible conduits that properly attach to the end of the socket sticking out of the headlamp. Cheaper repros did not have a clear extrusion on the male end of the conduit, just a little bump that looked like it was made with a punch.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Hey Joe, the wiring diagram looks good but the directions are backwards. If I start with the positive, there's only on connection????����
Hey, I can't post my I phone smiley faces!!