Pressurized oiling system.

[Juggler]

Thanks John

Excuse the ignorance from the UK, but you are talking about a GM Saturn?

If so, can you remember which model? We don't get them in England.

[johnneilson]

Juggler,

try this bearing #CB-1623P

If I remember correctly the rear cap should be the later model as this bore will poke through the thinner recess sections.

John

[Miles in MN]

Originally Posted by johnneilson

Juggler,

try this bearing #CB-1623P

If I remember correctly the rear cap should be the later model as this bore will poke through the thinner recess sections.

John

John:

Does your solution with Saturn inserts require four (half) bearing shells for each journal? Is the part number you listed a GM number or an aftermarket bearing manufacturer? Thanks in advance for your response. Here's my pressurized A block; I brazed the main feed line and used epoxy (JB Weld) where the lines went through the bottom of the valve chamber.

[johnneilson]

Originally Posted by Miles in MN

John:

Does your solution with Saturn inserts require four (half) bearing shells for each journal? Is the part number you listed a GM number or an aftermarket bearing manufacturer? Thanks in advance for your response. Here's my pressurized A block; I brazed the main feed line and used epoxy (JB Weld) where the lines went through the bottom of the valve chamber.

Yes, it takes four inserts per journal or 6 bearing pairs.
I do not remember if any had to be narrowed, pretty easy though.

That number searches up as Clevite Perfect circle bearing.

John

[wensum]

I note also in the photos that the tappet cover mounting bolt hole has broken away from the block leaving the coolant passage broken into.
I imagine this might be difficult to repair?
Keith

[Mike V. Florida]

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Originally Posted by wensum

I note also in the photos that the tappet cover mounting bolt hole has broken away from the block leaving the coolant passage broken into.
I imagine this might be difficult to repair?
Keith

Which picture, I don't see it.

[colin1928]

For those wanting to drill a A/B/C crank Do Not drill straight through
Drill using the 3 angle method it is so much stronger and your crank will thank you

[Juggler]

Originally Posted by johnneilson

Juggler,

try this bearing #CB-1623P

If I remember correctly the rear cap should be the later model as this bore will poke through the thinner recess sections.

John

Thanks again John. TR4 bearings getting hard to find even here

[Charlville]

I'd also post this one on the H.A.M.B

[Juggler]

Originally Posted by Miles in MN

John:

Here's my pressurized A block; I brazed the main feed line and used epoxy (JB Weld) where the lines went through the bottom of the valve chamber.

Now that's pretty

[MikeK]

Another approach-

[bettlesr]

Try to find a copy of Secrets Magazine (Secrets of Speed Society) Volume 19, Number 4, from April 2010. Most of this issue involves converting the "A" engine to full pressure oiling.

[machine girl]

Joe at Turlock machine has the hot bearing set up, also don't use copper lines!!

[wensum]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Which picture, I don't see it.

The one I've cut and pasted from an earlier posting below
Keith

[Bob C]

That's where the distributor goes through

Bob

[AL in NY]

Here's another approach with a transmission mounted remote oil filter.

[machine girl]

Al great plumbing job. are you a plumber by trade (ha ha )

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by wensum

The one I've cut and pasted from an earlier posting below
Keith

As Bob C said, that's the hole the distributor shaft comes down to mate with the oil pump drive bearing and gear.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Look at the picture Mike just reposted and see the small sealing area for the side cover gasket at top center. The first time I saw this many years ago, I thought the metal was broken in that area, just like the front where the oil overflows onto the gears. Seems like Ford would have had more metal in the area for the gasket, but it never seems to be a problem.

[40 Deluxe]

A few years back someone posted drawings on this forum showing how to drill the crank and do block mods for full pressure oiling, along with other mods, for aircraft use. This was Model A, not B.
I imagine if you searched for "Pietenpol" you could find it. Hopefully the crank stayed in one piece long enough to gain some altitude and find a nice pasture to land in if/when the crank did break!