What's left to check?

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

maybe the mice built a condo in your exhaust and plugged it solid

I hope they had fire insurance because it backfired a few times.

[Brentwood Bob]

Something wrong with the nurex modification, also loosen the gas cap.
Bob

[LopezCarguy]

I just found a new one, if the shielded cable coming from ignition switch is screwed in to distributor just a hair too much it grounds out..not all the time but intermittently... backed it out and no more problems..

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Brentwood Bob

Something wrong with the nurex modification, also loosen the gas cap.
Bob

OOH now there's something I never thought of!

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by LopezCarguy

I just found a new one, if the shielded cable coming from ignition switch is screwed in to distributor just a hair too much it grounds out..not all the time but intermittently... backed it out and no more problems..

The ignition cable hasn't been tightened or loosened since I put the engine together in July of last year but it's a consideration. Can't hurt to try.

[Skeezixx]

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Just thought of something. Isn't the ammeter part of the ignition circuit? If it is failing or the connections have loosened couldn't that be causing the problem?

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Just thought of something. Isn't the ammeter part of the ignition circuit? If it is failing or the connections have loosened couldn't that be causing the problem?

Ive never seen one all of a sudden fail. The connections can become loose and overheat at the meter, which can burn the insulting board inside the gauge. If the connections are clean and tight I wouldn't worry about the ammeter.

Check for good spark, then try the fouled plug trick.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

A MISH-MASH trouble shooting "SEQUENCE"?? like this can lead to more confusion & probably creating more problems, while switching to known "GOOD" parts!!! What happened to COMMON SENSE REASONING.
Sometimes, a simple thing like this leads to 7 pages of posts & NO definite conclusion!!
Bill W.

[Bruskie]

Well said bill

[FRANK PKNY]

IF YOU TIMING WERE STUCK ADVANCED YOU WOULD GET A SERIOUS KICK BACK WHEN CRANKING. Ops sorry about the caps! From changing all these carbs I would kinda lean towards an ignition problem When you hold your palm over the air intake check how well the carb is sucking. That should at least tell you if the manifold is seated to the gaskets well to rule that out. YOU NEED FUEL, Air , timed spark. Some times new parts that are craply built fail rather quickly. Ignition parts especially prone here. Also the wire inside the distributor is problematic on the Model A distributor.

[Skeezixx]

I had opportunity to visit the car briefly earlier today. I found a very intermittent spark from the coil. Going to change the coil and see what happens.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

I had opportunity to visit the car briefly earlier today. I found a very intermittent spark from the coil. Going to change the coil and see what happens.

"MAYBE" the screw in dist cable is just on the verge of shorting the connector??? Try screwing it out, (CCW) an eighth or a quarter of a turn. That happened to me once with Minerva, in the parking lot of the Market. I had to crank it into a parking space to clear the driveway.
Bill W.

[Skeezixx]

Replaced the coil with a new 6V one from O'Reillys and though the wire on the + side is hot I get no spark from the coil.

[Mitch//pa]

with the points in the OPEN position you should have power at both poles on the coil.
you should also have power at the movable point arm with the key ON and points still OPEN.
you can also place a credit card between the comtacts to make the check easier.
ck and report

[Skeezixx]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

with the points in the OPEN position you should have power at both poles on the coil.
you should also have power at the movable point arm with the key ON and points still OPEN.
you can also place a credit card between the comtacts to make the check easier.
ck and report

Thanks Mitch. Will do.

[C26Pinelake]

Originally Posted by BILL WILLIAMSON

A MISH-MASH trouble shooting "SEQUENCE"?? like this can lead to more confusion & probably creating more problems, while switching to known "GOOD" parts!!! What happened to COMMON SENSE REASONING.
Sometimes, a simple thing like this leads to 7 pages of posts & NO definite conclusion!!
Bill W.

What Bill says, makes good sense. There are several recent posts that list systematically the route to follow!
Wayne

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

I bought a timing light timing kit and read somewhere I needed a 6V timing light. Is this true (for both your suggestion and timing). I have an old 12V one.
(somewhere around here I have a timing light from a 50s BMW motorcycle. I have been waiting to unearth it before using the timing kit).

Correct me if I'm wrong.....just get the power for the timing light from a 12 volt battery

[Skeezixx]

Yeah, I have a 12V transformer I could use with the timing light. I was just stalling because I know I have an old BMW 6V one around here someplace (probably right next to the set of ignition wrenches I also can't find). I was just waiting for it to resurface.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Skeezixx

Yeah, I have a 12V transformer I could use with the timing light. I was just stalling because I know I have an old BMW 6V one around here someplace (probably right next to the set of ignition wrenches I also can't find). I was just waiting for it to resurface.

I have a 12 volt timing light that also works on 6 volts. You should give your's a try, and might get lucky.

[Purdy Swoft]

Sounds like the kind of thing that happens when a person changes to the so called modern points, especially when the wireless lower plate is also used. If this is the case put the original breaker plate and points back in and the problem will more than likely be solved. I've actually seen cases where people would rather have problems than change back to the simple, dependable, original setup . Another possibility is a short in the terminal box. I once ran a metal conduit from the generator to the terminal box on my september 29 . The conduit shorted against the left terminan in the terminal box and eventually burned the wires all the way to the ammeter. at first it still ran but backfired a lot. when it burned up the ammeter untill the posts were loose it wouldn't run any more. I replaced the wiring and ammeter, threw away the metal conduit and all has been good since. Good luck.