Top prop knob id

[wrndln]

I sent the picture below to a some model A people to identify. I got some information back yet, but not very much. I believe they are original knobs. However, since they are different, I am not totally sure what year the knobs are used on and if they are both original knobs. The shiny knob in the top of the picture has stainless steel cladding, as it is NOT magnetic. The lower knob in the picture has magnetic cladding. I believe the lower knob is used on 28/29 open cars. The top knob is maybe used on 30/31 open car due to its stainless cladding. If anyone knows about identifying top prop knobs, would you please post your information.
Rusty Nelson

[Midwest Tin]

Hi Rusty,
The top S/S cover knob appears to be original 30/31. The lower appears to be an original 28/29 knob. Could use some add'l photos showing the back side and front as well. Jim

[wrndln]

Jim,
Thanks for looking at the knobs and identifying them. What you stated is what I thought, but I wasn't sure. I still need a second 28/29 knob. I will send you some pictures of the front and back of the 2 knobs via email. Thanks for your help.
Rusty Nelson

[HoarseWhisperer]

On a related subject, I lost a original passenger-side Top-Prop Nut on my 31' Dlx Roadster. Examining the bolt that was left, I discovered it to be left-hand thread as apposed to the right-hand thread on the driver's-side. Have never been able to find a left-hand thread Top-Prop nut. All the repros are right-hand.

[d.j. moordigian]

Okay Rusty,..

I have 12 knobs,...there all non-magnetic, and have coarse threads.

1. 2 are repops
2. 2 are shaped correctly, BUT are 1.375" on the OD.
3. The rest range in OD's from 1.460" too 1.490" . They have the shape of your lower
one,(except 1 that is very flat). Except for the shape,..[B]the nut is a dead giveaway...[
You want photos?

[HoarseWhisperer]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Okay Rusty,..

I have 12 knobs,...there all non-magnetic, and have coarse threads.

1. 2 are repops
2. 2 are shaped correctly, BUT are 1.375" on the OD.
3. The rest range in OD's from 1.460" too 1.490" . They have the shape of your lower
one,(except 1 that is very flat). Except for the shape,..[B]the nut is a dead giveaway...[
You want photos?

Are any left-hand thread, DJ?

[wrndln]

Dudley,
I sent you an email. I didn't know some knobs had lefthand threads. You might try to thread a bolt into the nut on the knobs to see if they are all are righthand threaded.
Rusty Nelson

[Bob C]

In the 1928-1938 Hardware And Trimming Supplies book it shows
B-37708-A Nut R. H. thread--black, B-37708-B Chrome plate L. H. thread.

Bob

[d.j. moordigian]

Thanks Rusty,.....I lost my head !

They are ALL magnetic

They are all RH..

[HoarseWhisperer]

Originally Posted by Bob C

In the 1928-1938 Hardware And Trimming Supplies book it shows
B-37708-A Nut R. H. thread--black, B-37708-B Chrome plate L. H. thread.

Bob

First verification of the L. H. thread I've seen. Thanks, Bob C. Now if I could only find one.

[Bob C]

I found this in a book I have called FORD FACTS vol 1-hardware.
1930-31 models use two right hand thread nuts per car, 1932 models
use 1 each right and left thread nuts per car.

Bob

[FL&WVMIKE]

Didn't they all use the locking clip to keep them from rotating loose ?
I don't have a photo. Maybe someone will.
MIKE (mikeburch)

[160B]

Originally Posted by FL&WVMIKE

Didn't they all use the locking clip to keep them from rotating loose ?
I don't have a photo. Maybe someone will.
MIKE (mikeburch)

I do not know if they all used the locking clip but here is a photo of a reproduction prop knob with a locking clip.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Rusty I am going to up at the archives in a couple of weeks, and I was going to pull the print on the knob anyway for a project we are working on. I will let you know what I find when I get back.

[wrndln]

Thanks, Brent. I think I have the knobs figured out, but the archives should either confirm what I think or prove my thinking wrong. Let me know what you find.
Thanks,
Rusty

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by 160B

I do not know if they all used the locking clip but here is a photo of a reproduction prop knob with a locking clip.

I don't think the "locking clip" is original. I subscribe too Marcos statement that
that you tighten the "top prop knob" with the wrench that came in the too kit.
That's what kept the knob from falling off...

[FL&WVMIKE]

It's a good idea to use a locking clip, especially if you have original nuts.
If they were not original to the car, you could take them off for judging.
MIKE (mikeburch)

[wrndln]

I sure don't see why top prop knobs would be right AND lefthanded. Usually lefthand threaded hardware is where something turns like a bench grinding wheel and the lefthanded stud and nut keeps the nut from loosening. Of course, top prop nuts don't move. It Brent could check to see if Ford used lefthand top prop hardware, it would be nice.
Rusty Nelson

[160B]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

I don't think the "locking clip" is original. I subscribe too Marcos statement that
that you tighten the "top prop knob" with the wrench that came in the too kit. That's what kept the knob from falling off...

I have the locking clip on the top two of the prop knobs (reproduction) on my 1931 68B.

The lower two prop knobs (reproduction) are fastened wrench tight. One of the things that I do before I start a trip is to check the tightness of the lower two prop knobs and it is surprising how frequently the lower prop knobs are loose.

I have three original prop knobs and when I get the fourth I will install them with the locking clip, not sure that wrench tight is a solution, why did Ford use lock washers and cotter pins if wrench tight would do?