The Ford Barn

jaguar6165 · 02-06-2016, 11:20 PM

Is it normal for the engine stud in the center of the driver side to have a sleeve around it? I am in the processes of removing the old studs to install new ones with a new head. Just have a few that don't want to go.

Farrell In Vancouver · 02-07-2016, 12:04 AM

Nope not "normal" got a pic?

Tom Wesenberg · 02-07-2016, 02:28 AM

Someone used a sleeve to replace the thickness of the distributor cable clamp, which they didn't want to clamp to the head stud.

Mitch//pa · 02-07-2016, 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Someone used a sleeve to replace the thickness of the distributor cable clamp, which they didn't want to clamp to the head stud.

Wouldn't that be on the pass side unless it's right hand drive? I usually refer to it as l/s or r/s

BILL WILLIAMSON · 02-07-2016, 12:44 PM

Even Dogs know left from right, Buster T. ALWAYS lifts his LEFT leg, to TINKLE.
Bill W.

afuncar · 02-07-2016, 05:08 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

had one with a sleeve, bugger to remove head!

burner31 · 02-07-2016, 09:34 PM

In response to your post title...

Yes, thank you for asking

Tom Wesenberg · 02-08-2016, 10:54 AM

After rereading the question, I think he's asking about a thread insert to repair stripped threads in the block. It isn't normal, but is an acceptable repair.

Mikeinnj · 02-08-2016, 12:58 PM

Be patient with those few that don't want to go. Either leave them in or search this site for tips on removing them. If you break them off you will really wish you left them in.

jaguar6165 · 02-08-2016, 03:09 PM

I'll have to get a photo but it looks to be a sleeve around the stud on the driver side (not distributor side). It comes up and stops right around the start of the threads on the stud. I will try to post a picture after work.

jaguar6165 · 02-08-2016, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikeinnj

Be patient with those few that don't want to go. Either leave them in or search this site for tips on removing them. If you break them off you will really wish you left them in.

That is exactly what I'm afraid of. So far I have a few out and a few more that look like they shouldn't be a problem. Unfortunately there are 3-4 that I cants see the seam between the stud and the block so I'm sure they will fight men. Ill continue to hit them with lubricant and try to work them out over the next few days.

jaguar6165 · 02-10-2016, 02:15 PM

Finally got a photo of the stubs. Any ideas? Haven't tried to break it free yet.

Any tips on flushing the coolant out of the block so I can add all new fluid?

CarlG · 02-10-2016, 02:40 PM

I would just venture a guess that the corresponding hole in the head is waaaaaay oversize and the sleeve is there to make up the difference. If it were mine, a new head and set of studs would be on the way.

jaguar6165 · 02-10-2016, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CarlG

I would just venture a guess that the corresponding hole in the head is waaaaaay oversize and the sleeve is there to make up the difference. If it were mine, a new head and set of studs would be on the way.

Definitely. Already have the new studs looks like ill have to use the sleeve again if that's the case. Haven't ordered the head yet. Debating between the 5.5 or the 6

Tom Wesenberg · 02-10-2016, 03:35 PM

I bought a 5.5 head buy haven't installed it yet.

Also, what's up with the starter end plate? It appears to be bent or loose due to the gap showing in the picture. I've seen people try to mix and match wrong end plates before, and it usually results in a mess. Some have slots and pins to locate the plate, and others have an upset and notch.

Dave in MN · 02-10-2016, 03:41 PM

It is likely there was a crack in the head that ran into this bolt location. The hole in the head was drilled out and then the sleeve was slipped into the head with some sealant around it. The sleeve rusted to the bolt and was withdrawn from the head when it was removed.
I have made numerous repairs to heads using this method but I use a cast iron valve guide that is pressed into a reamed hole in the head and then drilled out to match the ID of the rest of the heads holes. The guide is slathered in Loctite before it is pressed into place. After pressing in place, the top of the guide is machined flush with the bolt boss and then the bottom of the head is decked. Makes for a nice repair that eliminates seeping of coolant at this bolt location.
If it is a custom stud to repair a stud that pulled out of the head...now that's going to be fun to engineer a repair! Let us know what you find.
Good Day!

J Franklin · 02-10-2016, 03:42 PM

Is the hole in the head a bigger bore for that one stud? It loos like it would have to be. I have a block with studs that are larger on the block threads but the same dia. as the standard studs through the head, kind of a step stud.

jaguar6165 · 02-10-2016, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I bought a 5.5 head buy haven't installed it yet.

Also, what's up with the starter end plate? It appears to be bent or loose due to the gap showing in the picture. I've seen people try to mix and match wrong end plates before, and it usually results in a mess. Some have slots and pins to locate the plate, and others have an upset and notch.

Yeah it came bent and I was lazy and never have it sent back. Has worked just fine over the years. Didn't seem to do any damage to another else.

jaguar6165 · 02-10-2016, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Is the hole in the head a bigger bore for that one stud? It loos like it would have to be. I have a block with studs that are larger on the block threads but the same dia. as the standard studs through the head, kind of a step stud.

Yeah I guess I have to check that. If I get a new head it could definitely pose a problem when fitting it. If I can get it out I'll try to repair the block to fit the stock size studs again. If that is possible. May just be easier to open up the head for that stud.

Tom Wesenberg · 02-10-2016, 05:42 PM

Spray some Kroil down the sleeve and let it soak for a day, then use a pipe wrench on the sleeve and turn it counter clockwise to see if the stud will turn out or the sleeve will twist loose from the stud.

02-06-2016, 11:20 PM	#1
jaguar6165 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Casselberry, FL Posts: 188	Normal stud? Is it normal for the engine stud in the center of the driver side to have a sleeve around it? I am in the processes of removing the old studs to install new ones with a new head. Just have a few that don't want to go.

02-07-2016, 12:04 AM	#2
Farrell In Vancouver Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Pitt Meadows BC Posts: 1,003	Re: Normal stud? Nope not "normal" got a pic?

02-07-2016, 02:28 AM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Normal stud? Someone used a sleeve to replace the thickness of the distributor cable clamp, which they didn't want to clamp to the head stud.

02-07-2016, 12:44 PM	#5
BILL WILLIAMSON Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: FRESNO, CA Posts: 12,560	Re: Normal stud? Even Dogs know left from right, Buster T. ALWAYS lifts his LEFT leg, to TINKLE. Bill W. __________________ "THE ASSISTANT GURU OF STUFF"

02-07-2016, 05:08 PM	#6
afuncar Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: coquitlam b.c. canada Posts: 130	Re: Normal stud? Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) had one with a sleeve, bugger to remove head!

02-07-2016, 09:34 PM	#7
burner31 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Shawnee, Ok Posts: 3,471	Re: Normal stud? In response to your post title... Yes, thank you for asking __________________ Keith Shawnee OK '31 SW 160-B

02-08-2016, 10:54 AM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Normal stud? After rereading the question, I think he's asking about a thread insert to repair stripped threads in the block. It isn't normal, but is an acceptable repair.

02-08-2016, 12:58 PM	#9
Mikeinnj Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Northern New Jersey Posts: 1,262	Re: Normal stud? Be patient with those few that don't want to go. Either leave them in or search this site for tips on removing them. If you break them off you will really wish you left them in.

02-08-2016, 03:09 PM	#10
jaguar6165 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Casselberry, FL Posts: 188	Re: Normal stud? I'll have to get a photo but it looks to be a sleeve around the stud on the driver side (not distributor side). It comes up and stops right around the start of the threads on the stud. I will try to post a picture after work.

02-10-2016, 02:15 PM	#12
jaguar6165 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Casselberry, FL Posts: 188	Re: Normal stud? Finally got a photo of the stubs. Any ideas? Haven't tried to break it free yet. Any tips on flushing the coolant out of the block so I can add all new fluid?

02-10-2016, 02:40 PM	#13
CarlG Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Anchorage, Alaska Posts: 9,117	Re: Normal stud? I would just venture a guess that the corresponding hole in the head is waaaaaay oversize and the sleeve is there to make up the difference. If it were mine, a new head and set of studs would be on the way. __________________ Alaskan A's Antique Auto Mushers of Alaska Model A Ford Club of America Model A Restorers Club Antique Automobile Club of America Mullins Owner's Club

02-10-2016, 03:35 PM	#15
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Normal stud? I bought a 5.5 head buy haven't installed it yet. Also, what's up with the starter end plate? It appears to be bent or loose due to the gap showing in the picture. I've seen people try to mix and match wrong end plates before, and it usually results in a mess. Some have slots and pins to locate the plate, and others have an upset and notch.

02-10-2016, 03:41 PM	#16
Dave in MN Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Jordan, MN Posts: 1,411	Re: Normal stud? It is likely there was a crack in the head that ran into this bolt location. The hole in the head was drilled out and then the sleeve was slipped into the head with some sealant around it. The sleeve rusted to the bolt and was withdrawn from the head when it was removed. I have made numerous repairs to heads using this method but I use a cast iron valve guide that is pressed into a reamed hole in the head and then drilled out to match the ID of the rest of the heads holes. The guide is slathered in Loctite before it is pressed into place. After pressing in place, the top of the guide is machined flush with the bolt boss and then the bottom of the head is decked. Makes for a nice repair that eliminates seeping of coolant at this bolt location. If it is a custom stud to repair a stud that pulled out of the head...now that's going to be fun to engineer a repair! Let us know what you find. Good Day! Last edited by Dave in MN; 02-17-2016 at 03:31 PM.

02-10-2016, 03:42 PM	#17
J Franklin Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,972	Re: Normal stud? Is the hole in the head a bigger bore for that one stud? It loos like it would have to be. I have a block with studs that are larger on the block threads but the same dia. as the standard studs through the head, kind of a step stud. Last edited by J Franklin; 02-10-2016 at 03:44 PM. Reason: grammer

02-10-2016, 05:42 PM	#20
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Normal stud? Spray some Kroil down the sleeve and let it soak for a day, then use a pipe wrench on the sleeve and turn it counter clockwise to see if the stud will turn out or the sleeve will twist loose from the stud.