try this again/ Volvo overdrive in a Model A

[Mike/Nebraska]

I have an overdrive from a Volvo in my Model A and I can't seem to even make the solenoid click, but if I use 12v it clicks every time. I know lots of guys are running a Volvo setup using 6v, any ideas? Not a good ground? Moderators, If you delete this post, at least tell me why.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Have you checked the voltage right at the solenoid?
I haven't worked on a Model A with the Volvo overdrive, but I'd guess the solenoid must kick in OK with 6 volts. Is this a new addition to your car, or a new car to you, or just a new problem on an overdrive that has been working for you?

[Kurt in NJ]

The laycock overdrive solenoid on the Volvo/MG/AH3000 that I have has 2 windings and points, there is a heavy winding for pulling it in, and a low amperage winding to "hold", the points get corroded or out of adjustment, if you peel back the rubber cap it will expose the points---the points should be "closed" ,then when the plunger is pulled in it hits a pin that opens the points dissconnecting the heavy windings ---some of the newer ones are different, you need to know what type you have ---- here is a link to a later one
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/techn.../JOD1/JOD1.htm ---this type the solenoid directly works a valve

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Mike,
Is it a model "J" overdrive with a large solenoid that just screws into the case? Bill W.

[Fred]

Why dont you ask "A" Volvo Dealer..

[spdway1]

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Originally Posted by fred

why dont you ask "a" volvo dealer..

perfect!:d

[Art Bjornestad]

Be sure the wire feeding the unit is heavy enough.

[hefty lefty]

Originally Posted by Fred

Why dont you ask "A" Volvo Dealer..

This is probably a Laycock de Normanville OD, which was OEM on a bunch of cars and aftermarket fit on a bunch of others in the fifties through early seventies, and neither a Ford nor a Volvo dealer in 2013 will be of the least help. I think the modern GearVendors OD sold for muscle car owners who would rather spend $2400 for a LdN beefed up clone than the same for a whole new 5 or 6 speed box that shifts ten times better and weighs less is the same principle.

The Brit car literature has plenty on these gizmos, which probably work fine on an A. Never troubleshot one myself.

[Fred]

Originally Posted by hefty lefty

this is probably a laycock de normanville od, which was oem on a bunch of cars and aftermarket fit on a bunch of others in the fifties through early seventies, and neither a ford nor a volvo dealer in 2013 will be of the least help. I think the modern gearvendors od sold for muscle car owners who would rather spend $2400 for a ldn beefed up clone than the same for a whole new 5 or 6 speed box that shifts ten times better and weighs less is the same principle.

The brit car literature has plenty on these gizmos, which probably work fine on an a. Never troubleshot one myself.

simply amazing !!

[Geo. H]

You probably need a new solenoid. They were designed for 12 volts, but a good one will work on 6V. Mine has been working fine for over ten years now. You might be able to find a used solenoid on fleabay. New ones are also available, but are expensive. Do an Internet search.

[pat in Santa Cruz]

Art might be on to something/ The wire to mine is 10 or 12 gauge and it works great on 6 volts.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by spdway1

perfect!:d

Yo, Speedy, Dog here, is ol' fred drinkin' beer, agin'? I thought he was only intrested in/knew about ORIGINAL stuff! We jis' tryin' to get the guy shiftin' good! Ol' Bill knows them overdrives real good. Buster T.

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Fred

Why dont you ask "A" Volvo Dealer..

Bill and/or Buster T are as close as you can get to that today!

[Mike V. Florida]

What is the reading of the voltage on the wire to the relay?

Jim Norman at Old Ford Garage, P.O. Box 1227. Valley Center Ca. 92082, 760-749-6317. He does or did Volvo units that are a bolt in for the Model A's maybe he can help.

[John LaVoy]

At one time there were 12 volt and 6 volt solinoids available perhaps you have a 12 volt version.

[Mike/Nebraska]

These are the only pics I have of it and they're kinda small. I bought it from a guy in Cal. who purchased it originally and never used it. I haven't tried it on the road yet but I was testing it to se if I could make the solenoid click and found it only would when I put my 12v battery charger on it...it did nothing with 6v. I should have it back on the road this week and I'll troubleshoot some more

[Tom Endy]

I believe the "Volvo" overdrive must be rotating before the shifting mechanism will work. They are not like the Borg Warner overdrives that use a hefty solenoid that you can hear click and actuates mechanical hardware. This type of solenoid has two sets of contacts and takes about 30 amps to initially activate it. Once activated the large points open disconnecting the 30 amps and closes a smaller set of contacts that sustain the solenoid with only a few amps.

I am not all that familiar with the inner workings of the Volvo, but I think the solenoid is much smaller and operates a valve that ports oil pressure from one passage to another to accomplish the shifting. You may not be able to hear a click. Members of my club who have Volvo overdrives have told me the solenoid will work on both 6 and 12 volts.

Tom Endy

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Originally Posted by Mike/Nebraska

These are the only pics I have of it and they're kinda small. I bought it from a guy in Cal. who purchased it originally and never used it. I haven't tried it on the road yet but I was testing it to se if I could make the solenoid click and found it only would when I put my 12v battery charger on it...it did nothing with 6v. I should have it back on the road this week and I'll troubleshoot some more

Mike,
You DO have the Model "J" overdrive. It IS much stronger than previous ones. Many times, the solenoid appears to be working O.K, but will NOT shift it, a replacement solenoid usually corrects it. (But they're REALLY expensive!)
The piston in the solenoid comes out with a tiny snap ring. I've never tried to replace the tiny "O" rings on the piston, to see if that would make it work. Is your oil level full? They use about a 5/16" cam operated plunger & a check ball to generate about 3,000 + # of pressure to operate the clutch engagement cylinders. Try running fairly fast, to see if it would then engage. NEVER try to back up with it engaged!!!
TIP # 317: Speaking of plungers, a grease gun easily puts out 2,000 + lbs of pressure! Used with a re-threaded grease fitting, they can be used to "PUSH" apart seized wheel cylinders or seized brake calipers or seized master cylinders! Bill W.

[Brian T]

If the solenoid works on 12v and not 6v then the solenoid may have high resistance, or maybe it will not make much of a click when applying 6v.

The only problem I ever had with them was metal machine dust improperly cleaned out at the factory causing them to stick.

This poor cleaning also caused the pressure valves to jam and apply excess pressure which in turn caused the 2 bars between the pistons to bend, normal pressure is between 420 and 490 PSI.

So my suggestion is to have it back in the car running about 30 mph on stands, apply 12 volts first to the solenoid, if you feel a distinct thump then you know that there is some pressure and the internals work, then try with 6 volts.

Keep us posted Brian T.

[Ron W]

Your charger may not be providing enough amperage. Try it on a fully charged 6v battery.
Ron W