276 stroker from 35 years of parts

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by cas3

I believe you can just flip the cover of the oil pump over, to get a new surface. Check it with some 320 grit on a flat surface, like your fancy grinder or table saw bed.

Next, use your new toy...er, I mean lathe, and put a center on the crank bolt to use a puller for the gear....carry on

Skip, I see we were talking about two different things here. The cover I was talking about is on the back of the block and your plate is on the pump itself. I still need to take apart a couple of short body pumps I found so I will need this info real soon. I went down to the shop for a half hour to do some investigating now that I know a lot more about that gear. I did find two that were accessable without taking an engine off it's stand. Looks like 3/8-16 on the thread. Hoping to be done in the woodshop by 10 am and get a good day in on the engine project. Stay tuned for more questions for the council of experts.

[cas3]

GB, all fun tools are toys

[GB SISSON]

Got some nice gears yanked out for my woodie's engine. Welded up a quick slide hammer out of junk and it worked great. Pulled 2. One beauty one, one not so much. 2 good crank gears both good came off with a 2 jaw puller that I ground a back cut on so the hooks grabbed in past the teeth. Unfortunately I had a contractor stop by about a project and then one more visitor, so no other progress. Will look around for some of those cam gear bolts this weekend and hope to get started with valves. I see it's common to lather up the cam with white lithium grease. Is stay-lube assembly lubricant good enough?

[51504bat]

Originally Posted by GB SISSON

Got some nice gears yanked out for my woodie's engine. Welded up a quick slide hammer out of junk and it worked great. Pulled 2. One beauty one, one not so much. 2 good crank gears both good came off with a 2 jaw puller that I ground a back cut on so the hooks grabbed in past the teeth. Unfortunately I had a contractor stop by about a project and then one more visitor, so no other progress. Will look around for some of those cam gear bolts this weekend and hope to get started with valves. I see it's common to lather up the cam with white lithium grease. Is stay-lube assembly lubricant good enough?

Over 50 years ago when I built my SBF I used STP. No issues but it was a one off type of thing that worked for a 19 year old know it all (read know nothing) kid. YRMV

[GB SISSON]

Hey, It's sticky and slippery at the same time, sounds like a good choice, but I'd still have to take the hour to drive to town in the morning to get some. I'll probably use the assembly lube on the cam bearings and if I find that the lobes need something else I can paint some on there later. I guess the same goes for installing my lifters in the bores.

[cadillac512]

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Heavy liquid assembly lube is much preferred over any type of grease, which can dry out and restrict oil if not run soon after assembling. As for cam lobes, most likely with the low pressures we see the assembly lube will be fine, but my preferred choice is a moly paste brushed on the lobes and lifter bottoms.

[GB SISSON]

I tend to overthink at times, but I DO have a fresh tube of JD cornhead grease. My springs are at 40 lbs.

[Bored&Stroked]

I bet that ole' cornhead grease would be just fine in your situation. You don't have much spring pressure, so you'll probably be just fine. I use a special lubrication that is designed for cams (has a lot of moly in it) - but I also run a lot more spring pressure and have pretty radical cams for a flathead.

[GB SISSON]

This saves me the trip to town in the suburban. With our island gas prices hovering just south of six bucks/gallon I don't venture into the big city of Eastsound if I don't absolutely need to. There are times when I realize I haven't come down off Mt. Pickett for almost 2 weeks.

[GB SISSON]

My big valve day started out slowly. My valve face grinder came with an aftermarket electric submersible pump for the coolant. I tried it back when I got it and it whirred so I thought was good. Nope, took it apart 3 times, cleaned, inspected, motor spins, nice o ring seal, nylon impeller no damage. Won't pump a drop. So I go to the backup other sioux, same model. Belt drive pump but broken cast iron bracket and no belt. Wasted the morning. After lunch I rigged up a gravity feed. Was a pain refilling and messy. Used tractor hydraulic fluid. So, now I have them all ground and have questions.
Margins. I have read quite a bit but a lot of valve info is for overheads and stuff that's gonna be raced at 8000 rpms etc. Seems intake valves can have fairly thin margins as incoming air cools them. Exhausts want like .10" thick margins. These ar my two thinnest exhaust valves after grinding. I don't see that thickness, but somehow they seem ok. You can see I did a quick lap on one. One thing about the margins confuses me. Does a valve ever get ground around it's circumference to attain a thicker margin or is that self defeating. Seems a thick valve transfers heat to the seat better, and a thin margine burns easier. Do these valves look OK for exhaust valves? The intakes are all about this thick, but their stems measure a little bigger, generally .341 with exhausts .0005 smaller.