Paint the fenders

[1929]

The fenders do not need body work, no dents all is straight. I would like to repaint them before putting them back on, the undersides were sanded down and given two coats of Bill Hirsch. If I decide to paint the top of the fenders, would it be ok to sand them with 500 grit paper, then put primer, base coat and clear coat, or just send it out to a body shop?

[wrndln]

Why do you want to use Bill Hirsch's paint on the underside of the fender? Why not just paint the underside with the same black paint as the topside. If the fenders finish is adhering well, I would just sand the fender with 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and paint it with a paint like PPG Concept. Concept is a single stage paint that give the look of enamel like Ford used. Base coat clear coat gives a "wet" look like modern cars. However, it's your car, so you can do what you want.

For what it is worth, I always sandblast my sheetmetal items, prime it with an epoxy primer like DP90 and finish it with Concept.
Rusty Nelson

[1929]

Originally Posted by wrndln

Why do you want to use Bill Hirsch's paint on the underside of the fender? Why not just paint the underside with the same black paint as the topside. If the fenders finish is adhering well, I would just sand the fender with 400 grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and paint it with a paint like PPG Concept. Concept is a single stage paint that give the look of enamel like Ford used. Base coat clear coat gives a "wet" look like modern cars. However, it's your car, so you can do what you want.

For what it is worth, I always sandblast my sheetmetal items, prime it with an epoxy primer like DP90 and finish it with Concept.
Rusty Nelson

Ive used the Bill Hirsch before, it seems to withstand the abuse of the road on the underside, as far as the base coat, clear coat, that's what I was told to use by a person who owns 6 original classic 50s cars. I have no knowledge on what paint to use.

[Tinker]

What kind of paint is on the fender now?

You can paint enamel over lacquer but not the other way around.

One way to tell what type of paint it is, is by taking lacquer thinner and wiping it on a spot of paint (preferable somewhere that is not noticeable). If it rubs off, well its lacquer. If it doesn't then you have an enamel.

You can rough it up with 500 grit or a scotch brite pad, spray a epoxy sealer, then some single stage. I like single stage as it requires less steps.

Some thoughts from a hobby painter, not a professional.

Taking it to bare metal is the best, but there are a few cars out there with a few coats of paint, I would suspect.

[1955cj5]

If it were me I would take it to a good body shop.

They have the equipment to spray, respiratory protection, a booth that will be mostly dust free and they can bake it.

I like doing things for myself but without the facilities and equipment I leave paint to the pros.

[J Franklin]

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If you don't sand through to bare metal or are trying to fill/smooth you don't need primer. You don't even need sealer if you sand gently with 600 grit.Sealer helps hide sanding scratches. You can spot prime if you find spots of bare metal. Ive had good bonding on reasonably good under-paint just scuffing with scotchbrite pads. You can paint outdoors in the mornings before the bugs and wind start up, but still use a good mask.

[pgerhardt]

I repainted my rear fenders. The fronts will be done next winter. Here is what worked for me.

1.) After sanding with 120 I sprayed on a coat of epoxy primer to isolate any paint left and to protect any bare metal.
2.) Two coats of Black Feather Fill primer surfacer.
3.) Block sanded the entire fender top and bottom with 220.
4.) Three coats of Urethane Black Enamel.
5.) Color (wet) sand top and bottom with 2000 through 5000.
6.) Buff out both sides.

They came out very good. But it is a long job. It was my winter project, and I used the entire winter! Much of it is dirty dusty work - not fun! If you have the time and the desire, go for it. The worst that can happen is that you can screw up and have to sand it off and do it again. (Don't ask how I know that!) You will learn a lot, and gain great satisfaction when it comes out great. However remember that if it does not come out good there is no one else to blame other than yourself.

[J Franklin]

If you sand with 600 grit paper and get a good flow out you may not need to do any color sanding or buffing. this car was painted outdoors as I described and has had no color sanding or buffing or waxing.

[Larry Jenkins]

I wrote a Model A painting article for the Restorer many years ago when lacquer was the thing.

One of the last things I said was, "When you pick up the gun, you are at 97 out of a hundred. Hundred signifying the time from 1 to 100 that it takes to properly prepare and paint.

Point is, do a thorough job preparing for that great paint job.

Larry

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by 1929

The fenders do not need body work, no dents all is straight. I would like to repaint them before putting them back on, the undersides were sanded down and given two coats of Bill Hirsch. If I decide to paint the top of the fenders, would it be ok to sand them with 500 grit paper, then put primer, base coat and clear coat, or just send it out to a body shop?

Does the rest of the car have BC/CC?

[1929]

Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida

Does the rest of the car have BC/CC?

I don't know. I had no intensions on doing anything with the body until maybe next year, but after installing the new motor, new rear, new transmission and other major work, I have to put the running board aprons back on before I put the new body blocks on, so right now I think I should just have the boards painted.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

If you sand with 600 grit paper and get a good flow out you may not need to do any color sanding or buffing. this car was painted outdoors as I described and has had no color sanding or buffing or waxing.

While the pictured car looks nice, I don't think it would pass my "Hemming's Test". IMHO with a properly done paint job you should be able to hole up an issue of Hemming's 10 feet away from the car and clearly make out the Hemmings title in the reflection.

Did I mention that there is a large OCD component to my restorations!

[J Franklin]

I think my car would pass your test. I only polish out a car if there is a problem with the job.

[mshmodela]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

I think my car would pass your test. I only polish out a car if there is a problem with the job.

Pardon my ignorance, beautiful car... What kind is it?

[Ross/Kzoo]

Originally Posted by mshmodela

Pardon my ignorance, beautiful car... What kind is it?

I would call it a 1936 Chevy.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

I think my car would pass your test. I only polish out a car if there is a problem with the job.

I congratulate you on your spraying skills. There is a fine line between perfect flow out of sprayed paint and runs/sags all over the place. Evedently you have mastered working really close to that line!

Every model A that came off the line was buffed out, so I have no problem with using the same technique to achieve the finish I want.

[J Franklin]

Lacquer usually requires a bit of buffing to achieve a high gloss. a technique I use with lacquer is build all my coats and then color sand with 600 wet/dry with plenty of flowing water and then mix a very thinned mix with the proper retarder for the temperature and then do one final wet coat. Then all that is needed is a good waxing with a good type of cleaner wax. Try this if you are doing any lacquer work you will be surprized.

[pgerhardt]

Originally Posted by J Franklin

Lacquer usually requires a bit of buffing to achieve a high gloss. a technique I use with lacquer is build all my coats and then color sand with 600 wet/dry with plenty of flowing water and then mix a very thinned mix with the proper retarder for the temperature and then do one final wet coat. Then all that is needed is a good waxing with a good type of cleaner wax. Try this if you are doing any lacquer work you will be surprized.

The goal is to get a perfectly flat reflective surface - like a mirror. Color sanding and buffing does this mechanically. Your method retains the color sanding but replaces the buffing with a wet top coat. I prefer buffing because it gives me more control and since it removes material I know I won't be adding any contaminates in the final step.

BTW wet/dry paper now goes all the way up to 5000 grit. With that stuff it is amazing to see the gloss start to come up while still in the sanding stage. Very little buffing is required after 5000 grit color sanding.

[Jeff/Illinois]

pgerhardt---- nice job they look great!

[J Franklin]

I guess I did figure I was a bit lazy.