Radiator Test - How Much Pressure?

[Hoogah]

I'm pulling my radiator out to get a leak repaired (low down just above the bottom tank). There are two repair shops in my town, but I think I need to give them some guidance about testing the radiator, being part of an unpressurised system.

I looked for previous threads and found this one with only a few replies and two suggestions of 15 and 20 psi as a test limit:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...=radiator+test

Is there an authoritative recommendation on what pressure Model A radiators should be tested at?

While I've got the radiator out, what else should I be checking other than the fan? (I'm already considering an aluminium 2-blade fan and am following the current threads on this issue).

[Kahuna]

Hoogah
WHen I had my radiator checked/tested, it was tested to 20# by the shop. I figured that would be just fine, and has been.
Just my experience
Jim

[Joe K]

Original (lap seam) radiator or aftermarket?

I would stick to 3 psi on an original.

Maybe 15 (possibly 20 if in the hands of your radiator man) for a good shape repop.

Joe K

[ursus]

The Model A is not a pressurized system, so why risk springing new leaks with a pressure test. I know of several episodes where a radiator shop jacked up the test pressure and, no surprise here folks, created a bunch of new leaks. At that point they are quite pleased to offer you a recoring job for $$$$. Clean it, rod it, repair the leaks, and run it.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I agree with Joe that 3 pounds is plenty to show any leaks, and as ursus said, why subject it to undue stress.

[pooch]

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Hoogah, when you tried the seal up stuff, was it the red or silver coloured one ?

[Hoogah]

Originally Posted by pooch

Hoogah, when you tried the seal up stuff, was it the red or silver coloured one ?

Hmm, can't remember. Hopefully the tube is still there so I can check and advise.
.

[Hoogah]

Nah, sorry, I've thrown it out and can't remember which type I used.

The radiator has an aftermarket core by the look of it. It has a I.D. plate that says it's a Newcell brand, made in Australia and with the letters "FORD 3 J 3" stamped in. I don't know the difference between a lap seal and whatever the other type is. Maybe you can tell from these photos?
The car was made in Canada and assembled in Australia.
There are two leaks - the big one near the bottom tank and another small one near top tank (visible from back).

[Joe K]

Radiator tubes today are made "seamless" - meaning the tube is extruded from the solid and has no seam.

Back in the day the technology wasn't so good, and they would make tubes by rolling strips of copper around a mandrel, and then soldering (or welding) the seam shut. These seam tubes can be seen to have a "line" down their long side, usually placed out of sight on the front of the radiator, and on the back side they may or may not be oriented for visual.

One can usually look between the tubes from the backside and see the seams of the next row.

Seam tubes are not as strong for pressure as seamless. Plus the lead in the solder of seam tubes can corrode and reduce their strength further.

Seam tubes do win points on fine-point judging.

Joe K

[Hoogah]

Thanks Joe.

[pooch]

I have had great success with the red seal up made for copper/brass rads.

The silver seal up is for alloy rads.

But as you have it out already, find a trustworthy rad fixer and give him a look.

[Hoogah]

I bet I was a dumb-ass and used the silver crap!