New Guy Seeking Advice

[BigRix]

I'm new to the world of Model A's but not to automotive repair. After 30 years as an Automotive Mechanic I have recently changer careers and now I am traveling the country as a contract trainer. This gives me some time off and my good friend has talked me into doing some work on his '29 Model A.





I'd like to run some things by you guys as I have little experience with the Model A, but I am a quick study. I've already picked up a lot just from reading this forum for the last couple of weeks.

First thing is a complete cleaning of the fuel system to get the rust out. He is ok with me pulling the tank but not with re painting. I'm seriously considering using Evapo-Rust. I've used it on many other projects on it is just amazing. I've read many posts about this subject and short of cutting the tank apart, I don't see much consensus as to the best way to clean it out.

He has already purchased all new parts for the fuel system including lines and carb. I have not laid eyes on these new parts but having restored several Mustangs I can tell you the quality of many of those repop parts is abysmal and I often chose to rebuild the original parts instead. Is this something I will run into with Model A parts as well?

He also wants me to install a new radiator that uses a 4lb cap and some type of screen set up that I would splice into the radiator hose. I'm not too crazy about this set up and could really use some advice as to whether I should try and talk him out of it. I would prefer to rod out the original radiator and flush out the engine and let him run it in a stock configuration.

Finally, his ultimate goal is to drive this thing with his wife and grand kids a couple times a month and have it be reliable.

Would y'all have any suggestions for upgrades that might make this a reality?

Should I find him some fuel with no ethanol? Electronic ignition?

Probably too many questions and I will try to narrow them down after I get the car to my house this weekend.

Thanks ahead of time for any and all help you can provide and I will post lots of pics as I start to work on her.

[tbirdtbird]

Wow.
I cannot weigh in on EvapoRust, I have no experience. Last I knew best approach was to let a radiator shop clean out a rusted tank. I do not like the tank-lining solutions you slosh around because it seems the ethanol in the fuel (a HUGE mistake) eats it every time.

The closer to stock you can leave the car the less trouble he will have, and the more reliable it will be.

New fuel lines should be OK, and the new carb, tho uneccessary, will be OK if from the right supplier meaning the jets are proper (flow tested, etc. There are many junk re-pop jets out there, wrong length, etc)

Pressurized cooling system very unecessary and will only cause problems. Have no idea what gizmo is to splice into the upper hose but it is not needed. Is this guy a mechanic? Or is he dazzled by gadgets? New rad. won't be cheap. If you know of a reputable rad shop let them go thru it.

If you can find fuel with no corn then God Bless and go for it.

Electronic ignition NOT needed. Henry's way was simple and reliable. Easiest points to adjust in the world. For timing, this throws guys who cut their teeth on 350 Chevies. Look at Marco's site for a pic is worth a thousand words.
http://www.abarnyard.com/workshop/timing.htm
read it study it it is not hard just different

You are right about re-pops. Henry made quality stuff back then. Many many parts were forged (today everything is plastic or worse). Too many ppl are tossing parts better than they are putting on.

Join the local club, you will have access to a wealth of experienced guys.
Forget all you know about a 350 chevy.

Post here as much as you like, there are some really really sharp guys here who know Model As cold. Look for answers from the guys with a zillion posts, they have the experience and give reliable info

Get a burnout proof condenser from the suppliers. The condenser lives right over the exhaust and is subject to all that heat. All the suppliers have a high quality burnout proof condenser available.

I notice Tom W already posted. Heed his advice about MMO; todays gas is so dry the valves can easily stick. MMO gives good lube to the valves which otherwise don't get much

Nice Tudor BTW

[Tom Wesenberg]

Stick with a completely stock ignition for the most reliability.

I'd use a few gallons of gas and keep dumping it back into the tank as you filter it thorugh cloth to remove the rust particles. Remove the gas valve, so it can drain faster, and rock the car side to side as it drains. When you have all the rust out that you can, then install the small filter in the valve, and reinstall it. I always try to use only the good gas without ethanol. I also use 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil with each 10 gallons.

I would clean the cooling system and keep it stock, as you want to do.

[vermontboy]

Both of the first two answers hit on the most important one - 90 per cent of the problems mentioned on this site are caused by "improvements". A stock "A" is reliable as a rock.
That does not mean that improvements can't be made if you know what you are doing - but repairs are more complex on the "improvements" than on stock items.

[Duffy1]

You can find a tremendous amount of information on these subjects in the archives . Click on search at the top of the page .

[tbirdtbird]

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try Tom's tank idea, getting an A tank out is no easy feat

[BigRix]

The radiator he bought has a fake cap on top and uses a pressure cap that you access under the hood. The screen that is "T"ed into the hose is supposed to keep the big chunks from clogging up the smaller passages in the radiator.

I'm not really excited to install this thing.

I'm more than happy to keep the points. I grew up working on them and as the resident VW mechanic at my old job I still used them all the time.

Are you guys finding it hard to get radiator shops to work on these radiators? I haven't called around to see if my local guys will do it or not. Are cores available still?

[tbirdtbird]

Can any of the pros here comment on this goofy rad.? I have never heard of such a thing

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

Can any of the pros here comment on this goofy rad.? I have never heard of such a thing

I've seen them, but only for hot rods with 350 engines, etc.

Yes, it is getting hard to find a GOOD radiator shop. Everyone wants to make a quick easy buck and do the least work possible. I went to Auto Zone yesterday, and he couldn't even cross reference the NAPA 3039 fuel filter.

You could try backflushing the radiator. Maybe it won't need to be rodded.

[Fred K-OR]

"Are you guys finding it hard to get radiator shops to work on these radiators? I haven't called around to see if my local guys will do it or not. Are cores available still?"

Bert's in Denver have rebuilt radiators that work great.

You may be able to find a shop that knows something about Model A radiators but most do not. The best way to find a shop would be to check with a local Model A club member who may know of a local shop that does Model A's.

[Mitch//pa]

if you find the need to get a new radiator Bergs has a good reputation for quality and fit.
http://www.bergsradiator.com

i have cleaned fuel tanks with evaporust with good success, i am suprised more on here dont take that route.

i have also used evaporust for cooling systems with good success . i then use a flushing pipe connected to the top hose extended out past the body to flush after the evaporust treatment.

i have not seen the fake radiator setup for model A's but would suggest getting his money back and using it towards a bergs

welcome to the barn

[Bob C]

Here is a link to a pressurized radiator. http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...0e0bb7308bbc53

Bob

[w.michael]

For safety: Turn signals. Liddy Light in the rear window. Seat belts. Safety glass. I see you already have the second tail light.

W. Michael

[huddy]

As a reformed gadgeteer, I can recognize the symptoms in others. It's not a good approach to dealing with a Model A. The reason these cars are still alive & kickin' after 80 years is a 6-letter word: S I M P L E. And maybe another: R O B U S T.

The only good modern improvement I think most Barners agree on is modern detergent oil. Most anything made in modern times will be much better than what Henry had available. Run 10W-30 or -40 and change it every 1,000 miles or so. Don't bother with a filter. If it doesn't already have one, add an air cleaner, especially if it will be driven in an area prone to dust, or on gravel/dirt roads.

DON'T put in a pressurized cooling system. A Model A should stay reasonably cool with a stock system, if it's operating correctly. If it's overheating, it's doing it for a reason that needs to be resolved - and it may not be the radiator that's doing it.

Your friend should get the Les Andrews Vol I book and also check into the videos, both available from MAFCA on their website. The "Diablo As" in SoCal have made some excellent instructional DVDs on many maintenance topics, and I highly recommend them.

Good luck, and remember the principal of K.I.S.S!

[BigRix]

Here is the rad he has.

http://www.thebrassworks.net/shop/Re...c53b18eff959d1

It's like the other one posted earlier by Bob C but has a modern high efficiency core. I think it will clog up pretty fast.

Thanks for the oil suggestion. I forgot to ask that.

He also has that book, well had that book. He gave it to me and I am plowing through it.

[Mitch//pa]

on that radiator link where does it describe the fake cap and pressurized system

[BigRix]

You are correct, the link that Bob C posted must be it.

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by BigRix

First thing is a complete cleaning of the fuel system to get the rust out. He is ok with me pulling the tank but not with re painting. I'm seriously considering using Evapo-Rust. I've used it on many other projects on it is just amazing. I've read many posts about this subject and short of cutting the tank apart, I don't see much consensus as to the best way to clean it out.

Of course you will need to remove all the loose rust in the system before using Evapo-rust. Without sealing the tank after cleaning the rust will return. Some just live with it by placing a filter in the fuel outlet in the tank. Some place a magnet in or under the tank to attract the larger chunks. some use a "dog leg" on the bottom of the tank.


He has already purchased all new parts for the fuel system including lines and carb. I have not laid eyes on these new parts but having restored several Mustangs I can tell you the quality of many of those repop parts is abysmal and I often chose to rebuild the original parts instead. Is this something I will run into with Model A parts as well?

Yes there is a lot of crap. The use of original parts is always the best. Why does he think he needs those parts?

He also wants me to install a new radiator that uses a 4lb cap and some type of screen set up that I would splice into the radiator hose. I'm not too crazy about this set up and could really use some advice as to whether I should try and talk him out of it. I would prefer to rod out the original radiator and flush out the engine and let him run it in a stock configuration.

You are correct about the cleaning of the engine and radiator. Stock Model A has no pressure.

Finally, his ultimate goal is to drive this thing with his wife and grand kids a couple times a month and have it be reliable.

Would y'all have any suggestions for upgrades that might make this a reality?

A PROPERLY restored model a will do everything he want to do for trips around town on "counrty" roads.

Should I find him some fuel with no ethanol? Always best with a car not driven much. Electronic ignition? Not needed!

Probably too many questions and I will try to narrow them down after I get the car to my house this weekend.

Thanks ahead of time for any and all help you can provide and I will post lots of pics as I start to work on her.

I would push him to save his money on mods, use it for gas and drive it stock for a while. If he decides after, that he wants mods Fordbarn can help. Any "upgrade" of a malfunctioning system will seem like the "upgrade" was needed. As an example, if a carb has worn jets, air leaks, rusted passages and runs like crap, if you put in a brand new 250 dollar carb you will see the difference. You can also spend a few dollars and clean the passages, use flow tested jets, fix the air leaks, and in a few hours have a whole bunch of money in your pocket.

[hardtimes]

Wow,
A whole mouthful at one time,eh !
Well, I'll take it peace meal and I'm sure that you'll get/got other pieces, besides mine.
YES on the evapo-rust idea...GOOD stuff, as you seem to already know.
YES on cleaning/rodding the radiator and flushing the block also. And, that if done properly should preclude pressureizing system..not needed.
BTW...Use the evapo- rust in the radiator/engine also and let it in there for (conscentrated) for a good long while (month). It will do much more good than just a back flushing. After evapo rust , then I use a good anti freeze.

[Dave in MN]

BigRix,
Your good friend has already purchased the pressurized radiator so the investment is already made. I suggest using it.
I used to have a problem with overheating and was constantly throwing water from the overflow. I was constantly worried about engine damage from overheating. I purchased and have run a high capacity pressurized Brassworks radiator for over 12 years (70,000 + miles) in my touring Phaeton. Since installing this radiator, I have never had an issue with overheating. With this system, I check the coolant twice a year... when I start it in the spring and once mid driving season. Rarely do I need to add coolant. The system has a 4# cap and a reclaim tank. 3 years ago I installed a 160 degree thermostat to keep the engine temp up for the late season drives just before the snow hits.
That being said, I do not think the screen is a good idea unless the engine is thoroughly flushed prior to installing it and the owner is willing to closely monitor the engine temp to avoid overheating. The screen would be okay/good until the loose scale is caught but I would not want it installed permanently in my engine. Just my opinion.
The other stuff mentioned: Keep it simple and stock.

The filter Tom describes is the one shown below. This filter fits into the top of the shut-off valve. The constant movement of the gas in the tank keeps the filter clean enough to pass the required fuel. Tom's method of cleaning the tank is sound and will get it clean enough to work well. If you do not install this filter, you may have problems with small particles of debris/rust plugging the carb jets or needle and seat.

Gas Tank Screen

This little screen presses into the gas shut-off valve where it goes into the gas tank. Prevents sucking gas off the bottom of the tank, and keeps junk out of gas lines. U.S.A.
Snyder's Part Number: A-9193 Price $4.35 / ea.

Other suggestions: Use gas without ethanol if the gas will remain in the tank for over a month. If the car is stored during the winter months, do not store it with ethanol blend. Just my opinion. (It's what I do.)
To avoid electrical problems, take all the connections apart and emery cloth the connections to promote good contact. It will result in a better starting and running engine. (It's one of the first things I do when a customer complains of intermittent electrical problems.)

Good Day!

[BigRix]

Thanks Dave, I had not considered using the screen to catch the initial debris and then removing it after.

[BigRix]

Here is a link to the screen set up he wants me to use.

http://tefba.com/

[glenn in camino]

Install seat belts asap. Drain the gas tank and put one of the screened filters in the shutoff valve. Stick with the original distributor/points system. Put a halogen bulb in the stoplight. Adjust the brakes. Check the water and oil and go.

[Dave in MN]

I checked out the site for the Tefba coolant filter. If a coolant filter is installed...this one sure is easy to service. My main objection to a filter in my earlier post was the thought or misunderstanding that it would be hard to check it for obstruction. I was wrong...I'd install it. I would still remove the filter after running the engine for a long enough period to verify the absence of any debris in the filter. I'm suggesting an entire season of clean running. JMO
Good Day!

[Dale G.]

Hello Big Rix,

To my recollection there is a nice Model A Club right there in Tucson and a couple of those guys post here. I would check around as they should be a wealth of information to help you find places to get things done. Also there is a Model A parts dealer in Chandler, Sam Guthrie, he is a good guy and can help you connect with the guys in Tucson. In the 60's I drove my Model A in Yuma to high school and on to college at ASU. Never once did I have an overheating problem. I guess that original radiator did good! I still have that car and restored it in the 80's for fine point judging, it now has 37,000 miles on it since judging and still going strong. Simple is dependable. Dale Gosa.

[Duffy1]

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Some safety items ; Check to see if it has safety glass . How about the fan . Is it original 2 blade .

[BigRix]

She showed up at my house today.





Fired her right up and backed her in the garage.





Got to work right away and drained the fuel. I don't think the tank is as bad as I thought.





It is now sitting with a couple of gallons on Evapo-Rust in it. We will see how it looks after that.

What really has me concerned is the head gasket. Looks like it is leaking to me. What say you?

[Fred K-OR]

Nice looking car. Have fun with it.

As far as the head gasket, and I am far from an expert (only worth $.001), but I think I would run it for awhile and see if it leaks more. Unless you are looking for something to do, then go ahead and check it out and change it.

I think I would be more concerned about why the pipe attached to the oil input pipe. Does it smoke, does it have a lot of "blow by" etc.? In other words, why the pipe.

[Bob C]

Nice looking car. Retorque the head and see what happens.

Bob

[BigRix]

I'm such a newb, I didn't even know that new pipe was not stock.

It just ends abruptly by the frame.

I assumed it was a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation.

[Fred K-OR]

Originally Posted by BigRix

I'm such a newb, I didn't even know that new pipe was not stock.

It just ends abruptly by the frame.

I assumed it was a road draft tube for crankcase ventilation.

Again my advise may not be worth much, but my impression was that the tube (the nice black one) was put on the oil filler pipe to carry off fumes or oil that may come out of the pipe. But get someone else advise on this subject first before you get to concerned about it.

[Duffy1]

Is that an original 2 blade fan?

[BigRix]

Originally Posted by Duffy1

Is that an original 2 blade fan?

I'm not sure how to tell if it is original, but it is a two blade.

I'll do some research.

[tbirdtbird]

Model A head gaskets tend to ooze a little, might not be a problem. Once you start it, and get it warmed up, you might gently see if you can re-torque it. I have never met a Model A that did not need re-torquing. For most of us, we torque all but the front 2 nuts to 55 pounds. The front 2 which attach the water neck or water outlet most of us only torque to 50 lbs. The ears on that water neck are prone to breaking off they are so thinly cast. Go easy. There is a pattern in Brattons catalogue. Get catalogues from the major suppliers, they are a wealth of info even if you do not buy anything.

The original fans are very very prone to cracking and having a blade sent into orbit. This disturbing feature has resulted in hoods and radiators being sliced open, hands and arms being cut off, and death. Change it if original. A modern aluminum 2 blade fan will be all one piece, with no visible gap between the blades and the pulley. There are pix on this forum.

Off the top of my head the systems which are not in synch with the modern day world of the chevy 350 are:
1.Ignition wiring (very diff than what you are accustomed to)
2.That darned fan blade. If orig., Do NOT trust it or weld it. Throw it away
3. Method of timing
4. Use of generator 3rd brush
5. learning the tricks of the Zenith carb. Of course, all carbs, even rochesters, have their quirks
6. mechanical brakes

All this stuff is covered here on the barn and in Les Andrews books. You wouldn't work on a 2014 Silverado without a factory manual, why would a Model A be any different.

Good luck and post as often as needed.

[Bob C]

The breather on the oil fill tube is an aftermarket accessory, Bratton's
has them. http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all

Bob

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by Bob C

The breather on the oil fill tube is an aftermarket accessory, Bratton's
has them. http://www.brattons.com/product.asp?...=any&PT_ID=all

Bob

Usually these were placed on cars with worn engines and blow by redirecting the oil in the blow by away from engine compartment.

[Tom Wesenberg]

I'd bet most of the rust pits on the exhaust manifold and right front of head/block came from a leaking water pump. I've seen more than a few like this.

[BigRix]

After digging further it appears that this car has an original, steel, two blade fan. It won't be going back on the car.

I've been using Les Andrews book to review many of the operations I will be doing. It is pretty strait forward and easy to follow.

Making good headway cleaning the tank without removing it. I'm not seeing much benefit to pulling the tank if he doesn't want to boil it out and repaint it.

But whats with all the "Chevy 350" talk. Them's dirty words to someone who bleeds Ford Blue. How about we say "It's different than that 289 Mustang you grew up working on.

[tbirdtbird]

Deal!

[Napa Skip]

General comment on "improvements" taken from problems experienced by various members in our club, both on tours and from club weekend work sessions to try and get some club-member's vehicles back on the road:

Tours:

1. Failed front end "anti-shimmy" stabilizer (during this July 4th parade in Calistoga);

2. Fuel starvation from clogged micro-filter in sediment bowl;

3. Failed fuel pump (down-draft carburetor).

Weekend club work sessions:

1. Botched hydraulic brake upgrade (worst part was drilled wishbone to mount hydraulic lines);

2. Botched hydraulic brake upgrade (think 'everything possible was done incorrectly');

There was one other tour problem; new club member could not get his Tudor started after arriving at the assembly point. Turned out he forgot to open the gas tank fuel shutoff valve (actually, he forgot to shut the valve and when getting ready to restart, remembered to "open" the valve. Glad I've never done this...)

The point being that - IMHO - if you're looking for reliability, strive for originality (seat belts, safety glass and turn signals excepted). [I've never heard of a reliability problem caused by seat belts, safety glass or turn signals, but I'll bet someone chimes in with one or two "examples."]

[BigRix]

Well after the lack of progress I was making on the tank, I convinced the owner to let me pull it and have it boiled out.



Damn, there are a lot of bolts holding that thing in. I didn't see any reason to pull the windshield as Les Andrews book indicates. Worked for me to just tip it out all the way.





Should have it back at the end of the week.

Now to the cooling system.

Water pump has about an 1/8" of endplay. He has one on the way so I will be flushing out the engine tomorrow.

I'm worn out.

[Bob C]

What's wrong with the water pump? End play could be the head is worn
where the shaft end rubs the head. They make a collar to eliminate end play.

Bob

[Mike V. Florida]

Originally Posted by BigRix

Now to the cooling system.

Water pump has about an 1/8" of end play. He has one on the way so I will be flushing out the engine tomorrow.

I'm worn out.

Originally Posted by Bob C

What's wrong with the water pump? End play could be the head is worn
where the shaft end rubs the head. They make a collar to eliminate end play.

Bob

Like Bob says it could just need a 3.50 cent part. As a matter of fact even if you are receiving a new pump, you should get the collar for the shaft. The original method of keeping the shaft was for it to rest against a boss inside the head. Years ago they sold (and still may do so) a shaft with a longer end in the head that would be ground down to rest against the boss.

[huddy]

Is it me, or does the front to back angle of the engine look wrong? It looks either too high in the front or too low in the back. Again, could just be my bad eyesight.

[BigRix]

It has a end play collar already but I think the rear bushing is the problem.





The owner has a pump coming so I will most likely rebuild this one for a spare.

Flushed out the engine and did some scrubbing on the outside. I then installed the plugs and carb. I adjusted the points but I cant do the timing yet. The steering column is moving to much with the tank removed and it's affecting the timing.





Now as far as the engine tilt being excessive, I wouldn't know if it is or not.

Here are some pics of the mounting, let me know if you see something out of the ordinary.







I have to say, this has been the most fun I have had working on a car in many years. I got into this profession for the love of it but quickly lost that in the everyday grind of the flat rate system.

[Bob C]

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Just disconnect the rod from the upper distributor plate and retard the
distributor until the arm is stopped by the end of the slot in the distributor
cap. Then set the timing.

Bob

[huddy]

RE: Tilt. It may be the camera angle that fooled me, or it could be that the frame has sagged. Does the crank pulley line up with the opening?

My coupe does not line up - it has a older repop front engine mount and the crank pulley is too low. (Replacement with a quality new part is in the near future). Could also be frame sag in my car, too.

It certainly is a lot of fun to work on these. I don't what is more fun - tinkering or driving.

[tbirdtbird]

looks ok from here

[BigRix]

Waiting on parts so I've been working on different areas depending on what I have on hand. Next up I decided to install the air filter on the air balanced carb. It felt a little loose and this is what I found when I took the filter element off.



Not an uncommon problem from what I have read.

Here is how I fixed it.

Drilled and installed pop rivits.



Making sure I put the large diameter side out and punched out the remnants of the pin. Don't want anything getting into the engine.



I then filled in the hole with hot glue and even though it used nylock nuts, I used loctite.



The owner had a heck of a time with the vendor he ordered from. Basically took them a week to tell him that they received his order and that the water pump was back ordered.

He ordered a pump from Snyder's on Friday and from what I have read, I bet it gets here before the other stuff he ordered on Monday.

Got a week left before I hit the road again so I probably won't get it driving before that. Won't stop me from trying though.

Still having a blast!

[BigRix]

Now I am at a loss and feel that my lack of Model A knowledge is showing.

The owner brought me new headlight assemblies to install and it looks like the harness on the car has been modified. I don't know what I need to make this set up work.

Here is what I removed from the car. The bullet connectors sure made removing the radiator shell a lot easier.



Here is the bottom of the new headlight.



Do I need a lighting harness? Do I need a connector to plug into this socket? Am I fighting an uphill battle trying to buy new parts to make this work? (I read a few posts that say headlight problems abound with aftermarket parts)

[tbirdtbird]

get as many supplier catalogues as you can; Snyder's, Brattons, etc ; many of them have exploded views of detail areas that you need

[BigRix]

I've been looking at the online catalogs and can't find what I'm looking for. Thanks for the info. I'll get a printed version.

[Mitch//pa]

have you seen this its good reference

[Brother Hesekiel]

I just noticed by accident that this Tudor has the same horn and horn bracket I just posted about in another tread. How crazy is that?

[BigRix]

The horn on this car doesn't look like it's original. He got me another one to install and that is one more reason I'm replacing the lighting harness.

I think I need these two items to make it work with my new headlights.





The plug will be the three prong version but no pic was available of it.

The tank didn't survive the boil out. I had taped up the edges of the tank to protect them and it got boiled out with those intact. After I picked it up I thought I dodged a bullet till I pulled the tape off.



Off to paint it went and it won't be back till after I leave for LA.

Here it is running after I rugged up a temporary fuel supply.

Let me know if i sounds ok to y'all. Does it sound like it need a valve adjustment?

http://youtu.be/MY40_c-Yf8k

You may also notice that the top hose does not line up just right. I have the proper rubber spacer under the radiator tabs but it sure looks like It could stand to be a little higher. I'm not sure how that will effect hood alignment. The six blade plastic fan clears and pulls plenty of air. I wouldn't have used it but it's not my car. The fancy, shiny lower radiator pipe leaks at the draincock. I think I'm going to clean up the original and use it.

This will be the last I get to work on it till at least next weekend. Thanks for all the fantastic advice and keep it coming.

[tbirdtbird]

Does it sound like it need a valve adjustment?

maybe.

For the minimal effort it takes to check lash, if you are this far into a decent service I'd check them. I always manage to find one valve that is off.

Regardless of any specs you find, we always use .013 both I&E with excellent results

[OC Dave]

Originally Posted by Dale G.

Hello Big Rix,

To my recollection there is a nice Model A Club right there in Tucson and a couple of those guys post here. I would check around as they should be a wealth of information to help you find places to get things done. Also there is a Model A parts dealer in Chandler, Sam Guthrie, he is a good guy and can help you connect with the guys in Tucson. In the 60's I drove my Model A in Yuma to high school and on to college at ASU. Never once did I have an overheating problem. I guess that original radiator did good! I still have that car and restored it in the 80's for fine point judging, it now has 37,000 miles on it since judging and still going strong. Simple is dependable. Dale Gosa.

If you would like to contact the guys at the Tucson Model A club, their website is Tucson Model A Ford Club

[c. sefton]

Wow, not one comment on wheel center caps. At least til now.