The Ford Barn

MrTube · 10-20-2010, 05:20 PM

So, finally got the company A back today. Owner drove it around 100 miles back without a problem so hes happy.

I set the timing as per spec this time and it seems to idle happiest with the timing fully retarded. Am I a hair too advanced?

I just installed a new "B" dist cam from Brattons as well as a new old style condenser. What i'm confused about is I couldn't really tighten the negative side of the condenser as it seems the brass insert is spinning. Is this normal?

Kurt in NJ · 10-20-2010, 10:25 PM

It could be that the screw is too long and bottoming out.

I would think that if it spins too much the internal connection can be damaged.

I have good luck with the A&L burnout proof condenser, it is still working after 20 years.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-20-2010, 10:44 PM

I agree with Kurt. Maybe the thick insulating washer was left out, allowing the screw to bottom out. Since the terminal has spun I would at least carry a spare good condensor at all times, just in case it fails on the road. Of course, where else would it fail? Not likely to fail in the garage,

MrTube · 10-21-2010, 05:35 AM

oh stop, my stuff always fails in the garage

So, theres supposed to be a thick insulating washer eh? All I had was a large screw with a lock washer on it.

Tom Wesenberg · 10-21-2010, 09:22 AM

The thick insulating washer goes between the lower plate strap (bus bar) and cast iron body. The screw is A-20223-S5.....(No. 10-32 x 7/32 rd. hd. screw) and the S5 means copper plate. The phenol fabric washer is A-22094..... 3/16 (3/32 x 9/16).

I was just looking on page 106 in the Mac's catalog and it seems they left these parts out of their exploded view of the distributor.

MrTube · 10-21-2010, 12:38 PM

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Tom, would you happen to have an exploded view of this? I'm having trouble picturing it.

From what I recall yesterday, this just slid into the dist, had one screw in the positive side(strap on passenger side of dist) and on the drivers side, it looked like the brass connector butted up against a brass strap which had a screw with a lockwasher on it. Nothing else. I'd like to have it correct and I assume this capacitor handles quite a bit of current at times ergo should have a good, tight, clean connection.

TK in LA · 10-21-2010, 04:02 PM

I think 12A of the layout from Bratton's is what Tom was referring to? Hope this comes out
TK

Tom Wesenberg · 10-21-2010, 05:19 PM

I don't have a picture but the insulating washer goes against the outside of the buss bar, under the screw head. You will probably have to remove the bottom plate to install the washer, as it's larger than the access hole for the screw. Some people like to put a drop of super glue on the washer to hold it in place on the buss bar.

10-20-2010, 05:20 PM	#1
MrTube Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,471	condenser problem So, finally got the company A back today. Owner drove it around 100 miles back without a problem so hes happy. I set the timing as per spec this time and it seems to idle happiest with the timing fully retarded. Am I a hair too advanced? I just installed a new "B" dist cam from Brattons as well as a new old style condenser. What i'm confused about is I couldn't really tighten the negative side of the condenser as it seems the brass insert is spinning. Is this normal?

10-20-2010, 10:25 PM	#2
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: condenser problem It could be that the screw is too long and bottoming out. I would think that if it spins too much the internal connection can be damaged. I have good luck with the A&L burnout proof condenser, it is still working after 20 years.

10-20-2010, 10:44 PM	#3
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: condenser problem I agree with Kurt. Maybe the thick insulating washer was left out, allowing the screw to bottom out. Since the terminal has spun I would at least carry a spare good condensor at all times, just in case it fails on the road. Of course, where else would it fail? Not likely to fail in the garage,

10-21-2010, 05:35 AM	#4
MrTube Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,471	Re: condenser problem oh stop, my stuff always fails in the garage So, theres supposed to be a thick insulating washer eh? All I had was a large screw with a lock washer on it.

10-21-2010, 09:22 AM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: condenser problem The thick insulating washer goes between the lower plate strap (bus bar) and cast iron body. The screw is A-20223-S5.....(No. 10-32 x 7/32 rd. hd. screw) and the S5 means copper plate. The phenol fabric washer is A-22094..... 3/16 (3/32 x 9/16). I was just looking on page 106 in the Mac's catalog and it seems they left these parts out of their exploded view of the distributor.

10-21-2010, 12:38 PM	#6
MrTube Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,471	Re: condenser problem Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Tom, would you happen to have an exploded view of this? I'm having trouble picturing it. From what I recall yesterday, this just slid into the dist, had one screw in the positive side(strap on passenger side of dist) and on the drivers side, it looked like the brass connector butted up against a brass strap which had a screw with a lockwasher on it. Nothing else. I'd like to have it correct and I assume this capacitor handles quite a bit of current at times ergo should have a good, tight, clean connection.

10-21-2010, 05:19 PM	#8
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: condenser problem I don't have a picture but the insulating washer goes against the outside of the buss bar, under the screw head. You will probably have to remove the bottom plate to install the washer, as it's larger than the access hole for the screw. Some people like to put a drop of super glue on the washer to hold it in place on the buss bar.