Original cutouts

[ndnchf]

Just thought I'd share an observation.

In the last couple months I've cleaned and serviced 6 or 7 original Ford cutouts. In all cases, even one that was especially crusty, they were all easily adjusted to close at around 6.5 volts and open reliably.

The points usually need a mild dressing and gap set to around .020", maybe a tad less. Sometimes they need alignment because someone messed with it previously and did not align them properly. Sometimes the air gap is a little too large and needs to be adjusted to about .010". When these adjustments are made, the points usually close pretty close to where I want them. But sometimes its still a little high, so I lighten the spring tension a tad and that usually gets them to open at the right voltage.

The takeaway from this is that original Ford cutouts are very high quality. I think people often discard them just because they think new is better. The only bad cutout I've seen recently is one that had been converted to a diode. It was burned out. I encourage use of original cutouts whenever possible. With proper service and adjustment, they will provide many years of trouble free service.

Here is the one I just finished. And also a short video of another one being tested.

https://youtu.be/MbITShRm6W4

[ndnchf]

If anyone has original cutouts laying around gathering dust, I'd be interested. Thanks.
Steve

[alexiskai]

Originally Posted by ndnchf

If anyone has original cutouts laying around gathering dust, I'd be interested. Thanks.
Steve

To restore for a fee?

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by alexiskai

To restore for a fee?

If I have extras, I'll clean, adjust and test and offer them for sale. I'm not set up to replate the covers, so I wouldn't call them restored. More like serviced and tested.

[1crosscut]

What do you need to look for to identify original cut outs?

[ndnchf]

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This link has a good description of the model A era cutouts.

http://modelabasics.com/Cutout.htm

From what I understand, in July 1934 to April 1936 they were marked with an "A" for armature near the input terminal. From April 1936 on they were marked with a "B" for battery on the output side. Some had Ford script, but not all. This is an example of a "B" marked cutout. Also in the 30s the feet had holes rather than slots.

[Benson]

After you remove welds to open cover how are you fastening the covers?

If covers are left loose they will turn during use and cause burned wires and maybe a fire.

This is a problem if the wires are installed without aligning the cover and without the shouldered insulated washers.

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by Benson

After you remove welds to open cover how are you fastening the covers?

If covers are left loose they will turn during use and cause burned wires and maybe a fire.

This is a problem if the wires are installed without aligning the cover and without the shouldered insulated washers.

I put on new black plastic terminal insulators. They fit in the square hole and lock the cover in place so it can't move. But if wanted, a drop of epoxy can be used in place of a spot weld. Also, I've found the covers are usually a tight fit on the base.

[katy]

What's the going price for a "serviced and tested" cutout?

[ndnchf]

Originally Posted by katy

What's the going price for a "serviced and tested" cutout?

Good question! Honestly, I haven't really thought much about it. The point of posting this was to encourage others do work on their own cutouts.

So far I've just been doing these for my own entertainment and local friends. I've not yet had enough spares to offer them for sale. So it would depends on what it costs me to buy them, and the cost of new hardware (insulators, L-bracket, special screws). But I'm thinking $35-$40 labor to clean, service and adjust them, plus the cost of to buy the cutout, parts and shipping. If someone has a cutout and just wants to send it for service, I could do that too.

Steve