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Old 08-04-2015, 06:33 PM   #1
1955cj5
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Default Lock Nut or Castellated?

I was going to use these lock nuts instead of the castellated nuts on the rod cap studs...

Seems like a good idea...no need to align the cotter pin hole....more accurate torque...
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Old 08-04-2015, 06:47 PM   #2
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

I used those on a Model T with no issues. They are a one use nut so use regular nut when fitting the rods then use those for final fit up. They are very snug when putting on so can affect the torque. Because of how tight they went on I did go back to castellated nuts when I took up the bearings. 35-40 foot pounds is what I use for both T and A.
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Old 08-04-2015, 08:50 PM   #3
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

I use a similiar lock nut on the rods with no problems. As RedmodelT says, fit them up with the castle nuts. I use 40 lbs torque because of the tightness.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:11 PM   #4
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

I would not use either.
I would use Marsden nuts. They are self locking but can be reused.
Most modern engines use them.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:27 PM   #5
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Thanks Pete,

where might you find Marsden nuts?
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:29 PM   #6
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1955cj5 View Post
Thanks Pete,

where might you find Marsden nuts?
Try an auto parts store.
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:31 PM   #7
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1955cj5 View Post

where might you find Marsden nuts?
Google can be you friend...
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:33 PM   #8
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

No luck so far, but still googling..
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Old 08-04-2015, 09:35 PM   #9
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

OK found them....$30 for a pack of 50..I need 8....maybe I'll stick with the cotter pins..

http://www.amkproducts.com/bulk3.asp?part=B-10060
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:06 PM   #10
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

1955cj5

Check out Aircraft Spruce P/N AN363- just add your dash number ie 7/16-20 is a dash 720
AN363-720 $1.39 each

Mike
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:47 PM   #11
Chuck Sea/Tac
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

I know a guy who uses regular nuts, with pal nuts most of his engines have upwards of 40,000 miles, nothing has come loose. That includes mine at 27,000 and no overdrive.
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Old 08-04-2015, 11:52 PM   #12
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck Sea/Tac View Post
I know a guy who uses regular nuts, with pal nuts most of his engines have upwards of 40,000 miles, nothing has come loose. That includes mine at 27,000 and no overdrive.
One of his came loose on an engine I had and caused a super blowup. Parts all over the street.
He didn't build the engine for me though. I got it second hand.
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Old 08-05-2015, 01:16 AM   #13
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Yah Pete, but I know you. How many rpm were you turning?
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Old 08-05-2015, 09:17 AM   #14
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

I've called Tacoma Screw, Fastenal and Napa auto..I did not think it was worth calling O'reillys...no one has them or knows where I might find them...

Might Marsden nuts be known by another name?

Flex-Loc maybe?

McMaster-Carr does not have them, nor Grainger....
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Old 08-05-2015, 10:47 AM   #15
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

The lock nuts you showed in your original post should work fine. Those work by punching the sides of the nut and slightly distorting to top threads to create friction.

If the nuts are correctly torqued, they likely would never come loose anyway.

The cotter pins just keep the nut from rattling around in the crankcase while the loose rod cap pounds itself to pieces.

Many modern cars use a one-time stretch bolt and correct torque, with no locking system at all. To make that work, however, the fasteners are part of a designed system that includes the material of the rod and cap. I wouldn't do this on a Model A with a stack of shims between the cap and the rod.


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Old 08-05-2015, 10:55 AM   #16
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

These are 3/8's size, but they should still make the 7/16's size for Model A's.

Pioneer brand.

Any GOOD machine shop should either have them, or can order them.

Herm.
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File Type: jpg Model T Locking Connecting Rod Nuts 002.jpg (72.7 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg Model T Locking Connecting Rod Nuts 009.jpg (57.1 KB, 37 views)
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:07 AM   #17
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by m4banger View Post
1955cj5

Check out Aircraft Spruce P/N AN363- just add your dash number ie 7/16-20 is a dash 720
AN363-720 $1.39 each

Mike
Mike,

I looked at aircraft spruce but did not see the size, but I will look again.

It seems there are lots of options....the Marsden being sort of elusive..
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:11 AM   #18
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

If you want to ruin threads, use the punched nuts.

There is nothing wrong with Castall nuts, and keys. They will never come loose if done right, as long as the threads on the bolt, and nuts are in good condition.

Torque to 40 Foot Pounds, and then align Key hole if need be.



Herm.

Last edited by Kohnke Rebabbitting; 08-05-2015 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:18 AM   #19
1955cj5
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kohnke Rebabbitting View Post
If you want to ruin threads, use the punched nuts.

There is nothing wrong with Castall nuts, and keys. They will never come loose if done right, as long as the threads on the bolt, and nuts are in good condition.



Herm.
So I guess that answers the original question, castellated or lock...

I'll used the castellated........

Aircraft spruce has the others, but for 8 rod nuts and 6 main bearing plus shipping it's nearly $30...
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Old 08-05-2015, 11:32 AM   #20
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Default Re: Lock Nut or Castellated?

O'Riley's has the nuts that Herm was showing above (#16)
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