Top of front axle worn from spring / inspecting used axle

[Laredo]

I just obtained a used axle to replace my original that had worn holes for the spring perch bolts. After looking at it more closely and comparing it side-by-side to my original, there are a couple issues that either will or may need addressing:

The first is the wear on the top of the axle from years of the front spring sagging and rubbing against the top of the axle. Both sides of this "new" axle have indentions from this wear. Is this something that will be a problem running like this, or does it need to be filled in with weld and ground smooth?










The other thing that will need checked and/or addressing is the straightness of it. When I put it side-by-side with my original axle, one of them has a slight bow to it, and I think it's the new one. I also laid the new one on its side and placed my old one on top of it, lining up the holes and also the machined tops of the axle. One end had the top machined surface at the king pin holes flush. The other end resulted in one axle having this machined surfaced raised almost 1/4 higher than the other one. So, I guess the question is how do I go about checking the straightness and correct angles on this new axle? I'm not blessed in my area with a lot of old school speed or machine shops like I read about so times here, so I might need a little more DIY direction, if possible.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Yes, fill it with weld and metalfinish it smooth. The damage is only aesthetical and not structural at that point.

As for straightness, we use a set of pins that go into the perch and spindle bolt holes but you can use a long straight-edge for reference. The axle will straighten cold in a small hydraulic press. Small amounts of pressure in multiple areas along the beam is all that is needed to straighten it.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

Yes, fill it with weld and metalfinish it smooth. The damage is only aesthetical and not structural at that point.

As for straightness, we use a set of pins that go into the perch and spindle bolt holes but you can use a long straight-edge for reference. The axle will straighten cold in a small hydraulic press. Small amounts of pressure in multiple areas along the beam is all that is needed to straighten it.

BTW, fellow Fordbarner and great Model-A mechanic Randall Strickland has two videos you may want to watch that addresses your questions;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veBwy3UmyeA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DD65PPwUPsU

.

[nkaminar]

Yes, the axle should be checked and straightened if needed as described.

[Laredo]

Thanks for the videos and relieving my worry of the wear being structural. Does anybody or any shop actually repair these as a business or sell good, straightened axles on an exchange? I don't really have the setup to do this myself, and it would be much easier to get one from a shop that knows what they're doing.

[Kevin in NJ]

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Some comments on what has been said.

If the axle has been heated it will lose it maleablity, that is it bends MUCH easier.

The videos are a nice start, but fail to properly check the axle. You need 4 bars and a straight edge. All the axles I have looked at were bent rear ware at the perch hole. Makes sense cause that is where most of the abuse will take the axle. I also found that during the straightening of the perch bend the twist may go away.

As for the heat issues I get a lot of negative feedback. I dont care. An axle that was heated to remove the perch bends like butter compared to one that was not heated.

If you intend to drive your car at speeds and put miles on it then do not use an axle that has been heated. I am fairly certain you will get alignment issues from axle bend at some point.

You can also use a straight edge and line up the centerlines of the 4 holes if you do not have rods. Not the best way, but it is a way. For reference I drew the line of where the axle was on a straight edge and you can see how far back the hole was before I straightened it.

I made the alignment rods using scrap computer printer rods and adapters I made fit the holes with my 9" lathe. Simple cheap and effective.

I am using a simple 10 ton press to get the axles straight. I found like 10 pumps would cause like 1/16" of movement on a good axle. Like 1/2" on one that was heated.

[Laredo]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

Some comments on what has been said.

If the axle has been heated it will lose it maleablity, that is it bends MUCH easier.

The videos are a nice start, but fail to properly check the axle. You need 4 bars and a straight edge. All the axles I have looked at were bent rear ware at the perch hole. Makes sense cause that is where most of the abuse will take the axle. I also found that during the straightening of the perch bend the twist may go away.

As for the heat issues I get a lot of negative feedback. I dont care. An axle that was heated to remove the perch bends like butter compared to one that was not heated.

If you intend to drive your car at speeds and put miles on it then do not use an axle that has been heated. I am fairly certain you will get alignment issues from axle bend at some point.

You can also use a straight edge and line up the centerlines of the 4 holes if you do not have rods. Not the best way, but it is a way. For reference I drew the line of where the axle was on a straight edge and you can see how far back the hole was before I straightened it.

I made the alignment rods using scrap computer printer rods and adapters I made fit the holes with my 9" lathe. Simple cheap and effective.

I am using a simple 10 ton press to get the axles straight. I found like 10 pumps would cause like 1/16" of movement on a good axle. Like 1/2" on one that was heated.

This may be a stupid question, but would the heat generated by welding in the wear spots on top be enough to affect the malleability that you described above?

Also, what can I source to use for centering cones? Rods won't be a problem to get, but I don't have a lathe or access to one to make any type of centering cone. Would a tapered lug nut of appropriate size work on top and bottom of the holes? Then, I could just get 4 all-threads and tighten the nuts to the axle. Any reason this wouldn't work?