The Ford Barn

harleytoprock · 09-20-2014, 09:05 AM

Hello All, I'm trying to adjust my valves and just ran into a wall. I seem to have the three wrench type tappets in this B block in an A car. With the tappet all the way up there's not much of the tappet to grab with a wrench. I can't figure how the last guy was able to adjust. I would need the tappet wrench to be about .040 thick. Is this normal? I don't think a sheet metal wrench will do the trick. In the photo the tappet on the right is all the way up. The intakes range from .013" to .017". The exhaust range from .015" to .017" Is this close enough to just call it a day? I have no idea what cam is in there. Thank you for your help!

Patrick L. · 09-20-2014, 09:36 AM

I'm always making 'special tools'. It shouldn't take too much to keep the lifter from turning.
As long as you're looking inside the cover, why not just take your time and finish the job. It doesn't take too long and its fun.

Not knowing what camshaft you're using, I think I'd keep the exhausts a bit on the loose side in the .017-.018" range just in case.

Jim Brierley · 09-20-2014, 10:34 AM

the only way that i see is to measure the clearance with the valve seated, then turn the engine enough to raise the lifter enough to get a wrench on it. adjust and repeat. it will take time and patience. this is why some builders machine a little off the boss. i set my stock cams at .012" intake and .014" exhaust. if yours are at least this much, and the engine is quiet, leave them as-is.

Rex_A_Lott · 09-20-2014, 12:23 PM

I've had good success using two wrenches for a 4" grinder. You may find the right size, or you may have to modify it. Good luck.

Willie Krash · 09-20-2014, 02:54 PM

I'm trying to remember the tappet size. I think 1/2'. Pretty skinny in there. I used a flat bicycle wrench for adjusting bearings. Dirt cheap and about 1/8" thick.
I use the "9" system when I adjusted mine.
Sounds like you do need to adjust them.

tbirdtbird · 09-21-2014, 10:13 PM

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this is a common problem. in the pic he is already at the max lift per what he wrote.
I took a spare 1/2" open end and ground it down quite a bit, quenching often, till i got it thin enough.

I think this lifter type calls for 1/2, 7/16, and 3/8 wrenches. A real pain.

Even tho some of you dislike cutting the lifter bosses, everyone around here does it and has for years with no problems

KR500 · 09-21-2014, 10:22 PM

What has worked for me after being instructed by an old timer. Determine the lash you have if any, use a drop indicator and when valve is wide open, set your drop indicator to "0". If your lash is .018 and you want .012, adjust the tappet till it moves .006. When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there. I have had good success with this method. I also use Vince Falter's rule of 9's when moving from valve to valve.

tbirdtbird · 09-21-2014, 10:40 PM

"When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there."

Look at the pic. The lifter is all the way up. Precious little body is is exposed to get a purchase on. He needs a very thin wrench to hold the lifter body from turning in order to get a diff. wrench on the locknut. We run into this all the time, especially if the cam has been reground

09-20-2014, 09:05 AM	#1
harleytoprock Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Posts: 438	Adjusting valves Hello All, I'm trying to adjust my valves and just ran into a wall. I seem to have the three wrench type tappets in this B block in an A car. With the tappet all the way up there's not much of the tappet to grab with a wrench. I can't figure how the last guy was able to adjust. I would need the tappet wrench to be about .040 thick. Is this normal? I don't think a sheet metal wrench will do the trick. In the photo the tappet on the right is all the way up. The intakes range from .013" to .017". The exhaust range from .015" to .017" Is this close enough to just call it a day? I have no idea what cam is in there. Thank you for your help!

09-20-2014, 09:36 AM	#2
Patrick L. Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Largo Florida Posts: 7,225	Re: Adjusting valves I'm always making 'special tools'. It shouldn't take too much to keep the lifter from turning. As long as you're looking inside the cover, why not just take your time and finish the job. It doesn't take too long and its fun. Not knowing what camshaft you're using, I think I'd keep the exhausts a bit on the loose side in the .017-.018" range just in case.

09-20-2014, 10:34 AM	#3
Jim Brierley Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Temecula, CA Posts: 4,089	Re: Adjusting valves the only way that i see is to measure the clearance with the valve seated, then turn the engine enough to raise the lifter enough to get a wrench on it. adjust and repeat. it will take time and patience. this is why some builders machine a little off the boss. i set my stock cams at .012" intake and .014" exhaust. if yours are at least this much, and the engine is quiet, leave them as-is.

09-20-2014, 12:23 PM	#4
Rex_A_Lott Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Upstate South Carolina Posts: 794	Re: Adjusting valves I've had good success using two wrenches for a 4" grinder. You may find the right size, or you may have to modify it. Good luck.

09-20-2014, 02:54 PM	#5
Willie Krash Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: Phoenix, Oregon Posts: 661	Re: Adjusting valves I'm trying to remember the tappet size. I think 1/2'. Pretty skinny in there. I used a flat bicycle wrench for adjusting bearings. Dirt cheap and about 1/8" thick. I use the "9" system when I adjusted mine. Sounds like you do need to adjust them. __________________ Mike Stitt "A business that make nothing but money is a poor business." -Henry Ford

09-21-2014, 10:13 PM	#6
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: Adjusting valves Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) this is a common problem. in the pic he is already at the max lift per what he wrote. I took a spare 1/2" open end and ground it down quite a bit, quenching often, till i got it thin enough. I think this lifter type calls for 1/2, 7/16, and 3/8 wrenches. A real pain. Even tho some of you dislike cutting the lifter bosses, everyone around here does it and has for years with no problems __________________ '31 180A

09-21-2014, 10:22 PM	#7
KR500 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Addison,ll. Posts: 454	Re: Adjusting valves What has worked for me after being instructed by an old timer. Determine the lash you have if any, use a drop indicator and when valve is wide open, set your drop indicator to "0". If your lash is .018 and you want .012, adjust the tappet till it moves .006. When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there. I have had good success with this method. I also use Vince Falter's rule of 9's when moving from valve to valve.

09-21-2014, 10:40 PM	#8
tbirdtbird BANNED Join Date: May 2012 Location: inside your RAM Posts: 3,134	Re: Adjusting valves "When the valve is wide open, you can get any wrench made for tappets in there." Look at the pic. The lifter is all the way up. Precious little body is is exposed to get a purchase on. He needs a very thin wrench to hold the lifter body from turning in order to get a diff. wrench on the locknut. We run into this all the time, especially if the cam has been reground __________________ '31 180A Last edited by tbirdtbird; 09-22-2014 at 09:00 AM.