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02-25-2015, 09:56 PM | #1 |
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Rod identification
Help. Can anybody tell me if these rods are authentic nos?
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02-25-2015, 10:09 PM | #2 |
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Re: Rod identification
No. NOS refers to "New Old Stock" (original manufacturer supplied) parts. They are NORS "New Old Replacement Stock" replacement parts (non manufacturer supplied parts).
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02-25-2015, 10:28 PM | #3 |
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Re: Rod identification
They are not NOS Ford.
You need to measure them (do not trust the boxes) to see of they are undersized. If they are standard or only .010 under then they may not be of much use. You would need a NOS crank or the rare crank that would clean up at .010. You have to look close at the babbitt. Try scrapping with your finger nail. Should be pretty hard (as in finger nail does nothing), the lead based stuff is noticablely softer. You also need to weigh the ends. Hopefully they are pretty close. Ford specs would have the end a certain weight +- 1gram. If they are std size then you take the caps off and look for signs they caps have been filed. If they are flat then it might be worth having the rod re-babbitted to the size you need. |
02-25-2015, 10:50 PM | #4 |
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Re: Rod identification
Your Clawson & Bals rods came from a major parts rebuilder that was in operation back in the 1940's and 50's when such rods could be purchased at most auto parts stores or machine shops. They are as good and probably better than anything available today from the current vendors. I say run them if they fit.
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02-25-2015, 10:57 PM | #5 |
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Re: Rod identification
I have also ran onto afew rods that someone evidently removed the caps from several rods and then when they put them back on they did not end up on the same rods they came from. Since they were bored with the caps as a matched set they no longer matched on the bearing surface. Just one more thing to look at for with older reconditioned rods. Rod
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02-26-2015, 12:45 AM | #6 |
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Re: Rod identification
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I have also seen many boxs, of all kinds where the new rods were put in an engine, and the old rods may be still good, were put back in the new boxes. Also if you pull a cap and the shim goes clear around the bolt, it is a Clawson and Bals spun poured rod. You sure could use some more detailed pictures. Herm. |
02-26-2015, 12:51 AM | #7 |
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Re: Rod identification
A nos Ford rod won't have a number stamped on the rod or cap(1,2,3,4), a rebuilt rod will have the number, some rebuilders kept the cap and rod together, some mixed the caps
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02-26-2015, 12:21 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Rod identification
Quote:
But the most important is the balance of the rod now is rendard useless! Herm. |
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02-26-2015, 01:40 PM | #9 |
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Re: Rod identification
It's worth noting that it's generally obvious if the cap and rod are mismatched. I the pics below you can see the machining on the exterior of both sides of each rod end. This was the last process as it was done to balance the rods at each end. The depth and pattern varied considerably from rod to rod. When a mismatched cap is installed the pattern will not match and in many cases is dramatically different.
When you see the difference between a few rods you will understand Herm's point about destroying the balance by mixing caps.
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02-27-2015, 01:00 PM | #10 |
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Re: Rod identification
my rods have full shim packs and dont look like they are used diameter is 1.484 rod dia. and .988wrist pin hole wrist pin doesnt look like its ever been fitted to a pin and no rotation marks on the rod surface
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02-27-2015, 03:32 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Rod identification
Quote:
Sooo, if your crank is ground the way it should be, at 1.478, not counting ware,you will be working with a .004-00 thousandths egg shape, or wasted clearance right off the bat! What are the pin sizes? And again, what do the shims look like, are they horse shoe, or do they go clear around the rod bolt? Pictures would help. Herm. |
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