Pressurized center main bearing?

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by BRENT in 10-uh-C

I install mine into the same Cylinder Block passage as the Oil Pump end and the Oil Pump Drive Bearing slip into. I use a ²¹⁄₆₄" drill bit in a 90° right angle drill to bore the hole. Then I use a tapered reamer followed by an ⅛" pipe tap for the block fitting.





I guess I should start by saying these aren't my design. I have been purchasing these from Ron's Machine over the years. They are flared however they are not double-flared as hopefully you can see in the picture. The tubing is copper however it appears to be the same material as used in industrial instrumentation work. Although copper can vibrate and fracture over time, I think because of the short length and gentle bends, it stays pretty rigid. Because of the orientation of the fittings on each end, and the rigidity of the tube, it may not be that big of a deal if ferrules were used.


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Brent, how in the world do you get that fittings' shoulders to pass (rotate) without hitting and stopping you from threading it into (installing after threading) the block. Those surfaces, or boses, aren't they hitting the shoulder of the fitting? The throws on the crank look very close? Is this a kit you guys sell?

When you drill and tap the car, how do you do that? Do you lay the cap over a big dowell rod, or a wood fence post or something? What if you drill a smaller hole for that last little bit of the cap, so you can leave more babbit? Also, seems like a bigger bit might "snag" the babbit, whereas a 1/8" might be less likely and still provide oil. Lets face it, "a little dab will do ya". LOL