What parts to swap brakes to 2pot master cylinder??

[63.5 Galaxie]

Howdy.
I am in need of new brakes on my 63.5 Galaxie, and want to upgrade the master cylinder to a later model 2 pot setup.
It is a 352/2V, 3spd/OD, manual steering, manual brakes car.

What I want to know is what master cylinder will be a direct swap, and what other parts do I need to do it?

Disc brakes are not an option for me at this time.

I also plan on adding seat belts this spring or summer, so I can take my 2 year old for a drive. Any suggestions on this?

Thanks,
63.5

[JeffB2]

The master from a '67 Mustang with drum brakes is what you want,the Autozone part # is FENCO M1485 pickup a 20" length of 3/16" brake line there too.You will need some brass fittings also, most of the counter dummies won't know which ones. I found mine at ACE Hardware you need a 3/16" X3/16" X1/8 pipe "T" for your brake sender switch and two 3/16" X 3/16" "L" fittings,eliminate the factory "T" fitting by the frame and connect the new line from the front port of the master to the "L" fitting and the existing front brake line,connect your existing brake line into the new "T" fitting with the sender and the line from the rear to the new "L" fitting and existing rear line.Make sure you bench bleed your new master before install and also give all the old fittings a good soak of PB Blaster the night before the install and make sure you have a good set of flare nut wrenches to use on the fittings.

[Ole Don]

I used three point seat belts from Julianos. They work great.

[63.5 Galaxie]

JeffB2, with that setup, I will not need anything like a distribution block? I am looking through the Dearborn Classics catalog right now, and they show pn BDB100 as being needed to install a dual bowl mc. And at 109.00, plus the rest of the parts, I am going to be getting closer to the cost of a disc kit.

Ole Don, Is your car a sedan or hardtop? I am thinking I cant do a 3 point one a hardtop due to no post to hook it too. It might even be pretty hard to do on the rear on mine too.

Thanks for the info!
Anymore ideas out there?

If I can talk the wife into it, I am hoping to go with a whole new stainless plumbing set. I am already going to be doing new brake cylinders and the rest, so might as well have it all fresh and clean.
I am kind of scared to take it apart. I have been driving it for the last 4 or 5 years around town, and have had to add fluid after a week or two of sitting. I'm not sure I want to see what I have been using to stop..
Thanks again, 63.5

[paul2748]

Originally Posted by 63.5 Galaxie

JeffB2, with that setup, I will not need anything like a distribution block? I am looking through the Dearborn Classics catalog right now, and they show pn BDB100 as being needed to install a dual bowl mc. And at 109.00, plus the rest of the parts, I am going to be getting closer to the cost of a disc kit.

Ole Don, Is your car a sedan or hardtop? I am thinking I cant do a 3 point one a hardtop due to no post to hook it too. It might even be pretty hard to do on the rear on mine too.

Thanks for the info!
Anymore ideas out there?

If I can talk the wife into it, I am hoping to go with a whole new stainless plumbing set. I am already going to be doing new brake cylinders and the rest, so might as well have it all fresh and clean.
I am kind of scared to take it apart. I have been driving it for the last 4 or 5 years around town, and have had to add fluid after a week or two of sitting. I'm not sure I want to see what I have been using to stop..
Thanks again, 63.5

I personally think stainless steel lines are a waste of money, especially in a full fendered car. The ordinary steel lines will outlast you. Many people have complained of fitting sealing problems with the stainless lines.

AS far as a master, I would suggest a full size all drum brake master off of something lke a 66 or 67 Galaxie. You can use a disc master as far as I know, but you will have to put inline residual pressure valves to both the front and back (10 LBS) brakes because a disc/drum master does not have this. Maybe the Mustang works, but the Mustang is a much smaller and lighter car and the bore size of the master may not do the job.

You don't need a distribution block if you are running 4 wheel drums and a all drum master cylinder.

[63.5 Galaxie]

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Thanks for the info Paul. Do you think just flushing out the existing lines will work, or should I go for new steel at least?
Thanks for that info on the distribution block.

Does anyone know if there are rear seat belt attachment points in the floor pan of a 63 Galaxie? I believe there are front attachment points, but have been reading that there might not be any in the rear.

Thanks again,
63.5

[JeffB2]

Since you are retaining your original drum brakes if you follow my above post you will be fine,I have had over two dozen members in my 1952-56 Ford group on the HAMB do this swap and it worked well for everyone,the new master will run you about $30 it was also used in the Mustangs of that era with the big block option,you do not need a proportioning valve or distribution block if you use the part number I gave you that would be necessary if you used the disc/drum master which is a different part number.You don't need to empty your wallet by buying from these aftermarket vendors like Dearborn when over the counter parts will do the same thing,as for the lines if you live in an area prone to rust and road salt or the car sat for a long period of time you may want to replace them.In that event you have this option, remove your stock lines and look in the yellow pages for "hydraulic fittings" these places have the tools to make your lines like OEM and the special benders to duplicate the curves,and the cost should fit your budget.

[STEVE1103]

JEEFB2, is right on, have put two in myself, 53 Merc and a 60 Chevy both work great. Had trouble will parts people about the fitting to accept the brake lite switch, other tan that a piece of cake to install!

[JeffB2]

These pics may help of the "T" fitting and brake sending unit,you could also locate the "T" at the rear port of the master cylinder,I had a pic of that but can't find it.Just some added info, your original single master cylinder has a 1" bore the Mustang dual master also has a 1" bore but the safety advantage of the dual braking system so it is more the adequete to stop your Galaxie.

[63.5 Galaxie]

I checked around today and found a 67 Mustang rebuilt master cylinder for 21 and change, plus a 10.00 core fee. The manager said he would take any master cylinder in exchange, so I should be set there.
Thanks for the pics. The Tee is just for the brake light switch then?

Now I just need to find a good source for wheel cylinders, shoes, and all new hardware. Got more shopping to do tomorrow, after I see what size my current brakes are.

Thanks again!
63.5

[Dave72dt]

Replace the brake lines and hoses. The originals will rust from the inside out and may look good on the outside but be very thin. You'll find the thin spot when you need the brakes to work their best. Be safe!

[63.5 Galaxie]

Alright, finally got all my parts in today. I went ahead and got new lines, along with everything else under the hub. It was actually more expensive to get a wheel cylinder kit than get a cylinder for some reason, so I went the quick and easy way.
Hopefully I can get going on it this week while the weather is nice.

63.5

[63.5 Galaxie]

Well, I picked up the brass tee and the ells last night on the way home. Shouldnt they be double flared and bottom out so that the tubing tightens up? The ones I have do not, and I fear will leak. Basically the tapped holes are straight through, and do not bottom out to compress the tubing.
Will take them back tonite, and try to exchange, unless someone thinks that is the correct part.
63.5

[pprather]

Regarding the tee. The brake light switch should go into it without a problem, I'd use a little teflon tape on the pipe threads.

For the openings with the flaired brake lines, yes, they need a bottom. Rather than searching for the tee that has female flare on the two sides with the third side open for the brake switch, use an adapter that is male to enter the tee and female flare for the brake line to enter.

Hope this makes sense.

[63.5 Galaxie]

Yep, I got 6 bushings to fit all my parts. They are pricey too. 6 bucks each...... and thats with my City government discount. But, they will work for what I need now.
Lets see, teflon the bushings to the block, but not the brake line to the bushing...
Now lets hope it warms up again long enough to get some work done.
Thanks all.
63.5

[63.5 Galaxie]

Well folks,
I have the brakes done finally, and have new tires on the car and have been cruising around all weekend.
I got the brakes done a week or two ago, but they were still kind of spongy. Did a good mityvac bleed job on them, sucking all of the fluid through, and they are 100% better now.
Thank you for your help!

I did it a hair different than suggested above as far as routing went.
I went with the 67 Mustang MC, and replaced all lines and brake parts.
As far as routing to the MC, I put a plug in the factory distribution block where the rear line entered it. I then ran the front lines as factory through that block to the rear of the MC, with the brake switch looped into a short piece of line right at the firewall where the factory wiring plugs can reach.

The rear was simple. I just came up to the front, rerouted the factory line to come up between the firewall and inner fender, and added a piece of tubing using a female x female coupling.

I will try to get some pics before it all gets dirty and get them posted.
Thanks again!
63.5

[63.5 Galaxie]

Here is a pic of what I did. I had a few issues of not having the right parts at the parts counter, so had to make due with the thread adapters into the mc.
It isnt the cleanest install, but isnt too bad for the first time.
Thanks for all of your help.
63.5

[JeffB2]

Got to hand it to you,you did a nice neat install, I am glad it worked for you.Tha 's why I ended up at Ace Hardware for the brass fittings the parts house guys got lost in space,I took my master and a brake line to match up the fittings,the adapters and two "L' fittings came out about $12 total I did not use the OEM sender as I adapted a GM sender inside the car when I rewired my '54 because it played nice when I added in the safety flashers.

[ken1939]

Great Job! Now you can do anything

[40cpe]

63.5, did you get your OD to lock out?