The Ford Barn

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 02:07 PM

I have no spark at the points. This the check that I have run so far:
6 volts at the battery
6 volts at the starter terminal
6 volts at both wing nuts on the terminal box
6 volts on both sides of coil
No volts at the points and no spark.
What should my next move be and what to check. Thats about the extent of my electrical knowledge.

johnbuckley · 08-14-2012, 02:49 PM

1) seperate the points with a slip of cardboard and recheck voltage at points, if still no voltage at points the fault lies between coil and points (eg possibly wire to ign switch, ign switchitself or within armoured cable ).
2)If you get a reading with the points seperated the fault may be within the distributor therefore -
3.)... remove ign cable from distributor body and rechcheck at tip of cable- ( if no voltage the fault lies in the circuit leading to the points from the coil.
4).... if you have Ok voltage at tip of armoured cable when its removed from distribuotr then the problem lies within the distributor( possibly a short under the lower plate.)

700rpm · 08-14-2012, 02:50 PM

A good next move would be to do a search for this subject on this site. If you can't find the answer there, come on back and we'll describe a diagnosis.

Franchise_24 · 08-14-2012, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 700rpm

A good next move would be to do a search for this subject on this site. If you can't find the answer there, come on back and we'll describe a diagnosis.

We will all have to remember that answer next time you ask a question.

If that's all you've got to say it'd be better to just not say anything at all.

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 03:01 PM

I'm trying to get a problem solved with a person interaction. It seems every time I ask a question here I get a few smart azz people to answer my questions. But thats another subject.
I have no volts with the points open, no volts at the tip of the armoured cable, now what do I check.

Serious answers please, streetrodding it is looking better every day.

johnbuckley · 08-14-2012, 03:07 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

No smart azzes this side of the pond I assure you, mostly grease monkeys- if no volts at tip of armoured cable with the cable removed from the distrib the fault lies in the circuit between the coil to dissy. do you have volts at pop out switch ? is the switch working good? If switch is passing the volts through OK the problem lies from switch to dissy.

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 03:33 PM

John I sent you a pm.

newshirt · 08-14-2012, 03:49 PM

FYI, This schematic below is good for tracing out shorts like this.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ight=schematic

dave in australia · 08-14-2012, 03:59 PM

If you have an aftermarket ignition switch, the outer terminal can touch the tank and give you ignition problems. Also, don't screw the armoured cable all the way in to the distributor, it will distort the contact plate on the lower distributor plate. Another thing to look at is if you have an aftermarket armoured cable, the switch end of the outer winding is a poor finish and has a pointed barb from being cut, when you wind it in to the distributor, you can cut the insulation of the power wire in the center and short it out. All three of these happened to a friends A, which I was giving a hand to, when he was trying to start it for the first time.

31Tudor · 08-14-2012, 04:13 PM

Just remember that you would not have 6 volts on the tip of the armoured cable unless the switch was turned on. Then you should have voltage to the tip of the cable. Not sure if you had the switch on or off for your check. If you dont have voltage to the tip with the switch on...then it could be the switch itself.

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 04:17 PM

Tested both ways on and off still no juice. I've got 6 volts at the red wire going into the switch, but how do you check if you have juice comeing out?

700rpm · 08-14-2012, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Franchise_24

We will all have to remember that answer next time you ask a question.

If that's all you've got to say it'd be better to just not say anything at all.

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 05:55 PM

Yes, it does. I had the same thing in the V8 forum, and my 35 Humpback goes pretty good with the GM drive train and motor. So, remember there are no such thing as dumb or bad questions, because all of us are not as stupid as the people who have smart azz answers as they know nothing at all.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-14-2012, 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fordgarage

You are not supposed to have voltage with the points open, nor at the tip of the armored cable. It is a ground path.

Maybe thin skin goes farther in street rodding.

Voltage should show all the way to the movable points contact if they are open and the key is on. If the ignition switch is on and good, and the rest of the ground side of the coil circuit is good then the entire ground side from the coil ground post to the points should show no voltage with the key on and points closed. Open any circuit whether it's the power side or ground side and you should show voltage to the open spot. Since the coil shows 6 volts on both posts we know it's not seeing a path to ground, so we know it's not shorted to ground, but rather has an open somewhere. My first guess is the ignition switch isn't working.

Vetcol · 08-14-2012, 09:54 PM

Is there an easy way to check the key switch?

28Annie · 08-15-2012, 07:15 AM

I had these exact symptoms earlier this year. After much head-scratching & poking around the issue ended up being that the wire inside the armored cable was broken inside of the housing where it screws into the side of the distributor. An experienced Model A guy told me that this happens on occasion because the cable gets unscrewed a number of times throughout the years & it twists the wire. The only way to make sure you aren't doing this is to remove the distributor & turn it into the ignition wire housing & then replace the distributor once the wire is set in place.

Good luck with tracking down the problem. There really are a lot of people on this board who genuinely are trying to help out.

Roadster62 · 08-15-2012, 07:33 AM

Has anyone ever done and PRINTED a step by step test of EVERYTHING elictrical you need to get a Model A running? EVERYTHING, bit by bit, how do you test it and with what tools? If every part was known to work, and installed correctly I would think more cars would be running. We can repair dents because we can see and feel them, electricity is somewhat like religion you have to believe in something you can't see. Bob

Steve Wastler · 08-15-2012, 07:37 AM

I don't see where Rays reply would be considered smart ass, It was a good sugestion, as there has been much written regarding this and many A issues. I think your reply to him was smart assed. It seems that people now all want an easy route, and don't want to spend time doing a search. As my neighbor says "if it was easy everybody would be doing it"......

Vetcol · 08-15-2012, 08:05 AM

Before posting I checked the search and really didn't get an answer.

IF EVERYBODY DID THE SEARCH AND ACCUALLY GOT THERE ANSWERS, WHAT WOULD WE NEED THIS FORUM FOR?

MrTube · 08-15-2012, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vetcol

Before posting I checked the search and really didn't get an answer.

IF EVERYBODY DID THE SEARCH AND ACCUALLY GOT THERE ANSWERS, WHAT WOULD WE NEED THIS FORUM FOR?

The forum not only continues new discussions, it also stores all of them for future use.

This is general forum etiquette and has been for many many years.

08-14-2012, 02:07 PM	#1
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	No Spark I have no spark at the points. This the check that I have run so far: 6 volts at the battery 6 volts at the starter terminal 6 volts at both wing nuts on the terminal box 6 volts on both sides of coil No volts at the points and no spark. What should my next move be and what to check. Thats about the extent of my electrical knowledge.

08-14-2012, 02:49 PM	#2
johnbuckley Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1,444	Re: No Spark 1) seperate the points with a slip of cardboard and recheck voltage at points, if still no voltage at points the fault lies between coil and points (eg possibly wire to ign switch, ign switchitself or within armoured cable ). 2)If you get a reading with the points seperated the fault may be within the distributor therefore - 3.)... remove ign cable from distributor body and rechcheck at tip of cable- ( if no voltage the fault lies in the circuit leading to the points from the coil. 4).... if you have Ok voltage at tip of armoured cable when its removed from distribuotr then the problem lies within the distributor( possibly a short under the lower plate.)

08-14-2012, 02:50 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: No Spark A good next move would be to do a search for this subject on this site. If you can't find the answer there, come on back and we'll describe a diagnosis. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

08-14-2012, 03:01 PM	#5
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark I'm trying to get a problem solved with a person interaction. It seems every time I ask a question here I get a few smart azz people to answer my questions. But thats another subject. I have no volts with the points open, no volts at the tip of the armoured cable, now what do I check. Serious answers please, streetrodding it is looking better every day.

08-14-2012, 03:07 PM	#6
johnbuckley Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1,444	Re: No Spark Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) No smart azzes this side of the pond I assure you, mostly grease monkeys- if no volts at tip of armoured cable with the cable removed from the distrib the fault lies in the circuit between the coil to dissy. do you have volts at pop out switch ? is the switch working good? If switch is passing the volts through OK the problem lies from switch to dissy.

08-14-2012, 03:33 PM	#7
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark John I sent you a pm.

08-14-2012, 03:49 PM	#8
newshirt Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 868	Re: No Spark FYI, This schematic below is good for tracing out shorts like this. http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...ight=schematic __________________ Ray White

08-14-2012, 03:59 PM	#9
dave in australia Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Victoria, Australia Posts: 1,177	Re: No Spark If you have an aftermarket ignition switch, the outer terminal can touch the tank and give you ignition problems. Also, don't screw the armoured cable all the way in to the distributor, it will distort the contact plate on the lower distributor plate. Another thing to look at is if you have an aftermarket armoured cable, the switch end of the outer winding is a poor finish and has a pointed barb from being cut, when you wind it in to the distributor, you can cut the insulation of the power wire in the center and short it out. All three of these happened to a friends A, which I was giving a hand to, when he was trying to start it for the first time.

08-14-2012, 04:13 PM	#10
31Tudor Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: North Carolina Posts: 611	Re: No Spark Just remember that you would not have 6 volts on the tip of the armoured cable unless the switch was turned on. Then you should have voltage to the tip of the cable. Not sure if you had the switch on or off for your check. If you dont have voltage to the tip with the switch on...then it could be the switch itself.

08-14-2012, 04:17 PM	#11
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark Tested both ways on and off still no juice. I've got 6 volts at the red wire going into the switch, but how do you check if you have juice comeing out?

08-14-2012, 05:55 PM	#13
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark Yes, it does. I had the same thing in the V8 forum, and my 35 Humpback goes pretty good with the GM drive train and motor. So, remember there are no such thing as dumb or bad questions, because all of us are not as stupid as the people who have smart azz answers as they know nothing at all.

08-14-2012, 09:54 PM	#15
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark Is there an easy way to check the key switch?

08-15-2012, 07:15 AM	#16
28Annie Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Apex, North Carolina Posts: 59	Re: No Spark I had these exact symptoms earlier this year. After much head-scratching & poking around the issue ended up being that the wire inside the armored cable was broken inside of the housing where it screws into the side of the distributor. An experienced Model A guy told me that this happens on occasion because the cable gets unscrewed a number of times throughout the years & it twists the wire. The only way to make sure you aren't doing this is to remove the distributor & turn it into the ignition wire housing & then replace the distributor once the wire is set in place. Good luck with tracking down the problem. There really are a lot of people on this board who genuinely are trying to help out.

08-15-2012, 07:33 AM	#17
Roadster62 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ridgefield, Ct Posts: 3,441	Re: No Spark Has anyone ever done and PRINTED a step by step test of EVERYTHING elictrical you need to get a Model A running? EVERYTHING, bit by bit, how do you test it and with what tools? If every part was known to work, and installed correctly I would think more cars would be running. We can repair dents because we can see and feel them, electricity is somewhat like religion you have to believe in something you can't see. Bob __________________ They don't have to run to be enjoyed. I'm here to enjoy the hobby, and enjoy the cars no matter what they look like. Most of the worlds problems are electrical.

08-15-2012, 07:37 AM	#18
Steve Wastler Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,987	Re: No Spark I don't see where Rays reply would be considered smart ass, It was a good sugestion, as there has been much written regarding this and many A issues. I think your reply to him was smart assed. It seems that people now all want an easy route, and don't want to spend time doing a search. As my neighbor says "if it was easy everybody would be doing it"......

08-15-2012, 08:05 AM	#19
Vetcol Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 62	Re: No Spark Before posting I checked the search and really didn't get an answer. IF EVERYBODY DID THE SEARCH AND ACCUALLY GOT THERE ANSWERS, WHAT WOULD WE NEED THIS FORUM FOR?