Now what do I do?

[jwilliams81]

Against my better judgement, I tried to remove a head stud.
This is what it looks like now. It broke below the surface. The yellow you see is PB blaster soaking in.

What tool can I use to get this out easily?
I don't know how to weld and don't own a welder to do the washer trick.

[Tiny]

1. Weld a nut to that stud, hope for the best and maybe it will come out
2. take it to a compitent machinist and pay to have it done right.
3. Drill it out and break an easy out off in it, then return to step 2

[jwilliams81]

the engine is still in the car.
And I don't own a welder.
Are there any other ways to get it out?

[goodoldvic]

The venders sell a jig to align a drill bit to drill and tap the stud hole. It also depends on your mechanical skill level. You could flatbed it to a competent machinist or pull the engine and have it done. Good luck

[flatford39]

I think that all you can do now since you don't have a welder is drill it out. I would start with a really small pilot bit and drill a hole all the way thru it. You need to keep it straight so you don't damage the block by wallowing out the hole.

Then I would apply heat to the stud and try an easy out. Chances are you are going to bust the drill bit off in the stud and then you are going to bust the easy out next. Is the car drivable??? If so put the head back on and drive it to someone that can weld or a machine shop.

[James Rogers]

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Originally Posted by jwilliams81

Against my better judgement, I tried to remove a head stud.
This is what it looks like now. It broke below the surface. The yellow you see is PB blaster soaking in.

What tool can I use to get this out easily?
I don't know how to weld and don't own a welder to do the washer trick.

You can try to drill it and pick it out but your percent of success is minimal. Best to take the car to a machine shop that has a mag drill and even that is a crap shoot. The welder and washer trick may be the only successful way to do this.

[figment]

I haven't tried this process . Put the cylinder head back on the block. Get a sleeve to fit in the stud hole that is broken so you can use a small drill bit to be sure it stays centered then maybe go to a slightly larger drill bit. Some have used a reverse thread and a heavy grade bolt. Others feel free to offer other opinions. Anybody try something like this? Norm

[30ccpickup]

There are welders who travel. Call a local farmer for recomendations. It looks like the stud broke down deep. I would try hammering a washer into a cone shape before welding. In addition, many of us have been in simular situations. You will get it out. These things happen. My wife says it is part of the fun and even though my stomach turns when something like this happens...she is right!

[jg61hawk]

Show 20 40 60

• BROKEN HEAD STUD DRILL OUT TOOL
  
  Part #: 8235 $140.00 /set
• click link that says broken head stud drill out tool. it ain't cheap but its not that bad. I see they show an easy out I used SPEED OUT on others things and man they grip. SPEED OUT is a form of ez out but I think better.

[Tom Wesenberg]

It can be done without damaging the threads. Go slow and be precise. Center tap the exact center of the broken bolt, then start to drill with a quality 1/8" drill bit. Just drill enough to see if you are in the exact center of the hole. If it's a little off center, then slant the dill to work it back to the exact center.

Once you are drilling down the exact center go slow and as soon as you feel the bit start to break through the end of the bolt use extra caution so the bit doesn't grab and snap. Don't drill through the head pocket. Then drill the next size larger, such as 3/16, then 1/4", etc. until you just start to see the edge of the threads.

At this point I use a very sharp narrow punch to pick away at the threads. Sometimes you can peel inward about 1/4" or so of the bolt thread, then grab it with a needle nose and turn it CCW to remove as much as possible. If you are lucky and get at least a few threads down, then you can use a tap to see if that will grab some more threads and work them loose.

The welded washer and welded nut is my first choice, but if the break is too low, then try the above method. The above method is all I used until I learned about the welded washer and nut trick about 20 years ago.

BTW, if you do manage to break a bit in the hole, then get out your Dremel and diamond bit and start grinding. It's slow but will get the bit out in the form of a powder.

Also, what's the condition of your drill? When the chuck can be moved in and out enough to feel the play, that's what can cause the bit to break. This is because the bit and chuck are pushed rearward, then when the bit cuts through the end of the broken bolt it suddenly wants to grab and quickly spin forward, which is often too much bite for the bit, and it snaps. My drill press has some play that I need to adjust out.

[62pan]

I just removed three broken studs in a B block, do like Tom says and start small and work your way larger. go as large as you can without touching the threads. Using a torch heat the remaining metal of the stud then touch it with an ordinary candle. The wax will flow behind the threads, it both loosens the stud plus acts as a lube as you remove whats left with an easy out. I never had studs come out this easy before I tried this.

[George Miller]

Tom has a good answer. The problem is it is hard to find the true center of the stud. The threads make the center of the stud to appear to be where it is not. Also be careful about running the drill to fast and work harding the bolt.Broken drills and stud removers are hard to get out. Forget the stud remover they like to break in the stud. Then you have a big problem.

Best to get the studs out with out breaking them. You have to go slow. It smoetimes takes heat, tapping on top of stud, and turning stud back and forth. But it can be done, but takes a lot of time.

[JtownJoe]

I can appreciate how you feel, I did the same thing a few years ago. I used the incrementally larger drill bit regiment, to get it out, but even though I did damage the threads I was able to repair it with a Helicoil Kit and all ended well.
So don't despair, it can still end well, but I would consider the mobile welding service as the first choice.

[Bob C]

Originally Posted by figment

I haven't tried this process . Put the cylinder head back on the block. Get a sleeve to fit in the stud hole that is broken so you can use a small drill bit to be sure it stays centered then maybe go to a slightly larger drill bit. Some have used a reverse thread and a heavy grade bolt. Others feel free to offer other opinions. Anybody try something like this? Norm

I did six broken studs on a 60hp V8 this way. I turned a sleeve on the lathe that fit in the stud hole in the head and center drilled an 1/8" hole in the sleeve. Bolt the head on put the sleeve in the broken stud hole and drill a pilot hole dead center of the broken stud.
No matter what do not use an easy out, they were invented by the same guy that invented the EDM (electrical discharge machining)

Bob

[jwilliams81]

This is really disheartening. I have only driven the car an hour. Found a leak and decided to do the head gasket. I wasn't going to replace the head studs, but everything I have read says to replace them.

[Y-Blockhead]

See if there is a machine Shop with a Mobile Metal Disintegration Service near you. They can remove the stud without damaging the block.

http://www.mobileextractor.com

[aermotor]

Let it soak a few days in Blaster then try a Ridgid pipe extractor, they will not wedge the the stud in tighter than other "easy outs" and not as critical as to centering as drilling small to larger. Can be obtained through plumbing supply stores.

John

[Tom Wesenberg]

I don't replace studs unless they are badly rust pitted.

I have welded up recessed broken studs as in the OP. I used my wire welder and kept the wire in the center of the bolt. Don't let the threads get too hot, but pile on the weld until it's level with the surface. Then let it cool and weld on a washer, let that cool a bit, then weld on a large nut. The heat and cool cycles will help break the bond of rust.

I first heard about the heat and wax method from Dave Gerold about 5 or 6 years ago, but still haven't tried it.

[tbirdtbird]

"I don't replace studs unless they are badly rust pitted."
Agree 100%
Be careful what you read; there are a lot of 'armchair' mechanics around; people who give advice but have never actually done the task themselves. Be forewarned.

As far as leaks; on an A, I would always start by re-torquing the head. Most Model A heads are under-torqued; usually because they were not torqued properly in the first place. They need to be retorqued several times after the initial installation....in some cases as many as 5 times.
If this is your first Model A, be careful of the 2 nuts/studs that hold the water outlet on. Do a search here for more info. It is worthwhile getting a good book or two on the mechanics of the A; it is nothing like a modern engine, at all. If you cut your teeth on a 302 or a 350, then none of that applies to an A

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

"I don't replace studs unless they are badly rust pitted."
Agree 100%
Be careful what you read; there are a lot of 'armchair' mechanics around; people who give advice but have never actually done the task themselves. Be forewarned.

As far as leaks; on an A, I would always start by re-torquing the head. Most Model A heads are under-torqued; usually because they were not torqued properly in the first place. They need to be retorqued several times after the initial installation....in some cases as many as 5 times.
If this is your first Model A, be careful of the 2 nuts/studs that hold the water outlet on. So a search here for more info. It is worthwhile getting a good book or two on the mechanics of the A; it is nothing like a modern engine, at all. If you cut your teeth on a 302 or a 350, then none of that applies to an A

Right on