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Old 10-17-2016, 09:17 PM   #21
Bob C
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

I've used X-tractalloy to remove bolts that are broken down below the surface.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L4zohssWS7I

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Old 10-17-2016, 09:18 PM   #22
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

I have a Broken Head Stud Removal Tool Kit as in post 9. Have removed at least a dozen broken studs and every one was a 100 % success. A very well designed and built tool. Good instructions. Yes, a bit pricey for a one-time use but considering the hassle of some of the suggested options and the chance of making the situation worse by breaking a drill bit or a easy-out, it may be a good solution. When finished, sell it on Fordbarn as a used tool for half price.
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Old 10-17-2016, 09:41 PM   #23
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Using the head as a guide is a great way to center the drill in the stud. If you have a lathe it is easy to make the guides and center drill holes for different drill bit sizes. Use quality drill bits! before I drill I soak the stud with Kroil and let it soak for a few days wetting it down daily, before I started using Kroil I also had good luck with PB Blaster. Started using a bit of heat and wax after soaking for a few days many years ago and never had a situation where I couldn't remove one, just be patient. I have also had great luck using a quality Torx bit as an easy out. This is one thing that cheap tools will give you more trouble than they are worth
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:03 PM   #24
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilliams81 View Post
the engine is still in the car.
And I don't own a welder.
Are there any other ways to get it out?
Try calling one of these;

mobile welding Cincinnati OH
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:37 PM   #25
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George Miller View Post
Tom has a good answer. The problem is it is hard to find the true center of the stud. The threads make the center of the stud to appear to be where it is not. Also be careful about running the drill to fast and work hardening the bolt.Broken drills and stud removers are hard to get out. Forget the stud remover they like to break in the stud. Then you have a big problem.

Best to get the studs out with out breaking them. You have to go slow. It sometimes takes heat, tapping on top of stud, and turning stud back and forth. But it can be done, but takes a lot of time.
With the bolt broken as low as the one pictured here, I would try the full size drill bit just to locate the center and then go back to smaller bits using the indentation the first bit made as the guide.
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Old 10-18-2016, 01:08 AM   #26
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

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Agree with what Tom says and the drill guide in post 9 and what Mag indicated above.
Yes it costs a few bucks but if you haven't drilled one before it can help

I have drilled out numerous with and without a drill guide. Have been succesfull about 90 percent of the time without Helicoil. If you mess up the threads a little you can carefully helicoil them. Take your time and drill straight. It can be done. I have had both failure and success with the weld stud method. Being that one is so far down in the block by druthers would be to just drill it. If you fail you then have to drill the harder weld ( or use dremel as Tom said).

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Old 10-18-2016, 04:40 AM   #27
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

If the head gasket is leaking how flat is the deck of the block, how flat is the head if these are not correct a new head gasket will not last. As t bird said they need to be retorqued 4-5 times. A left hand twist drill can also help to break out a stud but soak it good first. A good machine shop can take the stud out with a machine that will center on the stud and disinegrate it.
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:37 AM   #28
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Forget that you ever heard of an EZ out, you already broke the stud, and its way bigger and stronger than an EZ out, and it broke because its "welded" in by rust. EZ outs have a use but this is not a good one.
I would put the head back on and use a transfer punch to try to get the center of the stud. Just mark it good and then use a real center punch to get a good start for your smaller bit, otherwise you will ruin your transfer punch.
Then proceed as Tom says with the smaller bits and work your way up.
I like the idea of making the sleeves for the smaller bit to guide in. If I had a lathe I would do it that way. You just need to be sure there is minimal slop, because the bit will tend to want to walk around on the uneven stud surface, before it finally takes a bite.
Good Luck
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Old 10-18-2016, 07:53 AM   #29
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Let us know if and how you removed it....
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:49 PM   #30
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

I will. It is a lot to digest. I wish I could rewind those 5 minutes and pretend it didn't happen.

I have made a couple calls to some mobile bolt extractors.

We'll see what prices that come back with.
The Bartton's kit in post #9 does look like the answer since I don't have welding skills.

Thanks for all the input.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:06 PM   #31
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Easy outs should be called hard outs. They work if the studs is loose, but most of the time studs are very tight.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:29 PM   #32
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

I used this I think it is called spotting drill bit ask a machinist it cuts nice without walking. I got mine off a machinist hope this helps good luck.
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Old 10-18-2016, 03:52 PM   #33
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

At work with broken off bolts we had to resort to the drill method a few times. We always used left handed bits and 7/10 times the broken off bit will start unscrewing as your drilling.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:04 AM   #34
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

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At work with broken off bolts we had to resort to the drill method a few times. We always used left handed bits and 7/10 times the broken off bit will start unscrewing as your drilling.
Bingo! Good advice. Let hand bits can do amazing things for removing broken studs.
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Old 10-19-2016, 08:42 AM   #35
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Yea, still had to pin punch a dimple to make sure you were rilling in th emiddle but as you got bigger and bigger there was more chance the bit would eventually grab and unscrew it. Or at least get it to move some then thats where the easy out came into play - best advice I received is never use an easy out unless you can get the broken bit to turn just a little, then load it up with Kroill, then be as gentle as using a tap as once it breaks your screwed haha.

I honestly dont know why ALL drill bits are left handed... makes a heck of alot more sense and if your drilling wood plastic or metal it doesn't care what way the chips fly off so why ARE drill bits right handed? Is it just because someone made the first ones that way so thats the way they are? (kinda like why are screw threads and bolt threads right handed... no logical reason why they are besides thats the way it was done a long time ago...)
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Old 10-19-2016, 09:49 AM   #36
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaSlugs View Post
At work with broken off bolts we had to resort to the drill method a few times. We always used left handed bits and 7/10 times the broken off bit will start unscrewing as your drilling.
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagle View Post
Bingo! Good advice. Let hand bits can do amazing things for removing broken studs.
I have had good luck with left-hand bits and EZ outs on bolts/studs that have been sheared off because of side load or impact, where the threads are still relatively clean.
I finally learned after several screwups that if its broken because of rust and/or heat, such as on an exhaust manifold, its best to leave the ez out in the tool box. There is no reason not to use a left-handed bit to drill your pilot hole, but you wont usually find the correct size for your tap drill....unless its a 3/8 and you think you can get by with a 5/16. Good Luck
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Old 10-21-2016, 05:01 PM   #37
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Well My two cents says , if you feel you can handle it.. get a left handed drill bit. prick punch the center of broken bolt so not to damage the sides of the hole, and give it a try. left handed drill bits actually exist. unlike head light fluid and exhaust bearings and wire stretchers. they turn counter clock wise to drill into something. and clockwise to reverse out of the hole. or if you feel safer I would vote for the machine shop.
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:11 PM   #38
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Post #10 is the way to go. Ever larger drills until you get almost to the threads ---then pick out the rest and chase the thread. I'd avoid easy outs. Peyton
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Old 10-21-2016, 06:47 PM   #39
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

Here's what works for me: This is assuming the stud hole opens into the water jacket or else can be drilled through into the water jacket. First drill a 1/4" hole through the broken stud and continue into the water jacket. Then burn the stud out with an acetylene cutting torch. Make sure the tip is clean and burning evenly. Heat the stud thoroughly red hot before hitting the oxygen lever. CAUTION! Stay on the oxygen until the stud is completely burned out! Move the tip around as you cut to burn all the stud out. The slag will blow out the hole you drilled instead of blowing back at you. A blast of air, some minor pick work, a thread chaser, and good as new!
This works because steel will not burn (you want it to burn, not melt!) until it is red hot. The rust around the stud threads insulates the cast iron block so the block threads are not affected because they don't get red hot. Cast doesn't cut well, anyway. Use sealer on the new stud or, if you're OCD, tap and plug the hole into the water jacket.
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Old 10-25-2016, 01:46 PM   #40
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Default Re: Now what do I do?

I took the advice of some and called a mobile machinist. Wow what a great choice. He came over at 7:30pm used an air powered 1/8" carbide bit and carved out the broken off stud without damaging the block threads! It took him less than an hour and it cost $110. While not "cheap", his skill and professional saved my butt from having to drill it out and put a helicoil in.

If you are within 70-100 miles of Cincinnati Ohio look up this guy and give him a call!
He will come to you.

Herb's Machine Shop and Auto Repair
Herb Boyer
4347 East Galbraith Rd
Cincinnati, OH 45236
Shop:513-793-9214
Cell: 513-703-0159
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