Oil Filter Installation

[Randy1944]

I apologize for beating this horse to death. I want to install a drop in cartridge type filter on my motor as I put the motor back together. The motor never had a oil filter when I bought the truck. Motor is a V8 1946-1947 in my 1939 Ford pickup. Questions: My filter will mount on the motor head and has a fitting at the very bottom and then another fitting on the upper back (this fitting comes out and t's out to the left and to the right). Where should each fitting on the oil filter connect to the motor? Possibilities: left rear of motor block has the two 1/4" openings. I have bought and plan to install an oil filler tube that has a fitting on it - just to the side where the fuel pump attaches to the oil filler pipe. There is no opening on the oil pan for a fitting.
Questions: Do I need to use the "T" fitting on the upper rear of the oil filter or just a singular fitting? Where should the upper rear fitting hook to the motor and where does the bottom fitting on the oil filter connect to the motor? Sorry to be so wordy, but I want to be understood, so I can get a good solution. Thanks

[JSeery]

The top/side fitting connects to the same location as the oil pressure sender on the bellhousing area just behind the left hand cylinder head. The bottom fitting is the oil return to the engine and can connect several places: Bolt on the Fuel Pump stand, Bolt on Timing Cover, added Fitting on the Oil Pan or on the side of the Block to a factory return fitting if it is present. The Bolt locations require the hollow bolt/banjo fitting type of arrangement. The T fitting is to allow the oil pressure sender to be relocated. Some of the attached photos might give you some ideas on how it can be located and plumbed.

[Randy1944]

So, it looks as if I can go from bottom of filter canister to top of bell housing and then go from upper rear of filter canister to oil filler tube. Since my motor had no filter on it, I have to come up with two locations that were not being used when I got the motor. This way I will not need to find and use one those "banjo" bolts.
Thanks again for all of the help and pictures.

[JSeery]

I am not following you at all. The bottom of the filter is the oil return to the oil pan, why would you want to connect it to the oil pressure side? That would be backwards. Nothing connects to the oil filler tube! And it sure wouldn't be the pressure side. Did you look at the diagrams I posted? I thought they were fairly clear, the pressure side of the oil filter (the top/side fitting) connects to the oil pressure fitting at the bellhousing. The oil return (the bottom fitting) goes to the oil pan (or some location that will get it there).

The early motors did not have filters from the factory and add-on filters were available. Later years had factory filters. The banjo fittings were not add as a nicety, they were required! If you are not wanting to use the banjo fittings (and they are a pain to fabricate these days) I would suggest a return to the oil pan. I recent post had a neat setup that just required a punched hole in the pan and a screw in fitting. I will see if I can locate the reference for you.

[JSeery]

Here is a link to the Thread: https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...ght=oil+filter

The device is made by Frantz.

[JSeery]

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Another consideration if you are not familiar with the by-pass type of filter, it HAS to have the restrictor in the inlet (pressure) side to restrict oil flow. The restrictor should have a .060 hole in it. Without the restrictor you will be reducing the oil pressure to the engine, not good.

[cmbrucew]

Originally Posted by JSeery

I am not following you at all. The bottom of the filter is the oil return to the oil pan, why would you want to connect it to the oil pressure side? That would be backwards. Nothing connects to the oil filler tube! And it sure wouldn't be the pressure side. Did you look at the diagrams I posted? I thought they were fairly clear, the pressure side of the oil filter (the top/side fitting) connects to the oil pressure fitting at the bellhousing. The oil return (the bottom fitting) goes to the oil pan (or some location that will get it there).

The early motors did not have filters from the factory and add-on filters were available. Later years had factory filters. The banjo fittings were not add as a nicety, they were required! If you are not wanting to use the banjo fittings (and they are a pain to fabricate these days) I would suggest a return to the oil pan. I recent post had a neat setup that just required a punched hole in the pan and a screw in fitting. I will see if I can locate the reference for you.

Jerry
I believe he has a fitting on the oil fill/fuel pump stand tube that he wants to use as an oil return.
Bruce

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Randy1944

So, it looks as if I can go from bottom of filter canister to top of bell housing and then go from upper rear of filter canister to oil filler tube.

Bruce, what I didn't follow was the connecting of the oil return line to the oil pressure fitting and connecting the input side of the filter to the oil filler tube!

The oil filter tube will not work as a return location as it will end up blowing oil out the cap and all over the engine compartment. Ford as apparently even having a problem with this banjo bolt in the fuel pump stand. Guess you could give it a try, but don't think it will work out satisfactory for you. I guess worse case is an engine compartment clean up and redoing it.

[Randy1944]

I am not doing a very good job of communicating and will try once more. My motor has not had an oil filter setup. I have purchased a used unit. The used unit has a fitting at the very bottom and then another fitting on the rear of the canister up toward the top. This top rear one came with a brass "T" fitting coming out of the canister. This is what I have. Now, If I am to use the acquired oil filter, I must find two places in the motor to fasten the lines. On the top of the bell housing there are two fittings - one is now used by the oil pressure sending unit and the other opening is plugged off and not used. I do not at this time have a fitting on the side of the oil pan. I do have a filler tube that has an opening that is plugged now. I just bgt. it because it has this plugged hole. I will try to attach a picture of the oil filler tube.
The opening on the bellhousing is used and its line(containing un filtered oil) goes to the upper fitting on the rear of the filter canister. Now, the line from the bottom of the canister(containing filtered oil) goes where? Why can't it go into the filler tube where new oil goes? I really don't mean to upset anyone - I just want to understand how to mount my oil filter and help my engine. Thanks[IMG]Oil Filler Tube.jpg[/IMG]

[JSeery]

Magua understand English very well (a line from Last of the Mahicans) LOL

The T fitting at the filter is to connect both the oil pressure sender and the pressure (unfiltered oil).

You can move the oil pressure sender or leave it where it is.

I don't think the return to the oil filler will work, but if you want to try it go ahead.

If it was that simple Ford and a lot of other folks would have used it. But if that is what you want to try go head, worse case is oil in the engine compartment.

[Lawson Cox]

The oil return line does not go on filler tube or the base of the fuel pump housing as you have it pictured. The return line in this general location goes to one of the bolts that hold the fuel pump stand to the intake manifold, and requires a hollow bolt for the oil to return to the pan. Clear enough???

[ford38v8]

Randy, the location of return line in your picture will work, however, you should know that Ford moved it off the fill pipe due to excess oil vapor escaping in blowby. The T fitting you describe was likely a secondary oil pressure gauge, not needed. The device pictured that punctures the oil pan for the return line is worth considering, if the blowby is indeed oily wet.

Despite those who poopoo the idea, I'm definitely in the pro filter camp. The bypass filter system pushes the equivalent of 5 qts of oil through the filter every 15 minutes, the additional qt of oil contributes that much more oil cooling capacity, and a wise mechanic once said: "Pay me now or pay me later."

[Randy1944]

This is great information (well except Maqua - I liked the Mohicans). With this information, it looks as if I need to see about making a hole in the oil pan and using that, rather than use the hole in the oil fill pipe. This will also open up another thing I have in mind. I saw in a picture online, someone had fitted a mechanical oil pressure gauge(about four inches across and mounted using the bottom stem) on one of the fittings on the bellhousing and I liked the way it looked under the hood. It did not do away with the dash gauge. Maybe now, I could use a fitting off the aforementioned "T" fitting.

Before I forget, could someone point me in the direction to get the correct "Restrictor" that I need on the inlet(pressure) side to restrict oil flow.
Thanks again for all of the information.
ps It really was a great movie and I also liked "Dances With Wolfs"

[SofaKing]

Randy, after searching the threads, I melted some solder in a brass elbow and then drilled a .062 hole to make a restrictor. I did not see any mention at that time of the oil draining back through the fill/vent tube causing clouds of oil vapor, wish I had. I plumbed mine via the special bolt that it was plumbed with when I bought the engine. I have not started it yet, may be re-plumbing it. Too bad I just sold the extra oil pan with the drain fitting too, I used one that had a baffle instead.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by Randy1944

This is great information (well except Maqua - I liked the Mohicans). ps It really was a great movie and I also liked "Dances With Wolfs"

I loved that line out of the Last of the Mohicans, I use it all the time! Sounds like your on the right track. I like the gauge idea.

On the restrictor, there may be one built into the inlet. Take a look and see if its there. You can also buy them or use SofaKing's approach. If there is not one already in the inlet and you decide to purchase one we can provide a source.

[JSeery]

SofaKing, I think if it was me and had that much work into it I would give it a try and see what happens. If you keep an eye on it you should be able to see what is going on before it becomes that much of a problem. Worth a try. This was Fords first approach so I would guess it was more of a long term problem and a short term one.

[Randy1944]

JS, I do remember that when the "T" comes out of the filter body, one side of the T has a different I.D. than the other. I will have to check it out next week. I have to store my truck in a garage I have that is forty minutes drive - one way and I can't just pop outside and check things. The mechanical oil pressure gauge that I saw - looked killer and I knew I wanted to use one - again, just to be a little different.

[SofaKing]

Originally Posted by JSeery

SofaKing, I think if it was me and had that much work into it I would give it a try and see what happens. If you keep an eye on it you should be able to see what is going on before it becomes that much of a problem. Worth a try. This was Fords first approach so I would guess it was more of a long term problem and a short term one.

Thanks. The 59A that it came with had a 48" long paper and wire defroster hose from the top of the vent tube and exiting the vehicle in the rear of the LF fender under the running board. It didn't even have an oil filter. The 1936 21- stud I installed came with the filter. Bending up a new line is easy, just paying for my ignorance again is the tiresome part.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by SofaKing

Thanks. The 59A that it came with had a 48" long paper and wire defroster hose from the top of the vent tube and exiting the vehicle in the rear of the LF fender under the running board. It didn't even have an oil filter. The 1936 21- stud I installed came with the filter. Bending up a new line is easy, just paying for my ignorance again is the tiresome part.

If you do try it as-is it would be interesting to have you report back on how it worked out.

[ford38v8]

Randy, As it hasn't been mentioned as yet, you'll want to make sure that the restrictor is on the inlet side of the filter, rather than the output. If you have it reversed, you'll discover the limitations of the canister gasket in short order!