The Ford Barn

Pete · 05-08-2024, 09:57 PM

Taking the body off of a 2 door model A is relatively easy job from the top.
From a safety standpoint, I would not recommend doing it from the bottom. (jacks and cribbing)
The first thing you will need is a SAFE point to hang a chain hoist. If you have changed engines with the hoist then you should be ok doing a body.
I used 2 padded straps rated at 1000 lb. single. I rigged through the windows. One near the windshield and one near the back of the back side windows.

(be sure to CLOSELY inspect the straps for frays, cuts and worn spots before using)

I took a short trial lift to determine the balance point, then rigged a small strap at each end to keep the big ones in place.
After clearing all of the various wires, steering and other "stuff", I picked the body up about 4 inches. I removed the bolts and wood blocks, (nuts removed previously) MARKING EACH FOR LOCATION.
I then lifted the body high enough to roll the chassis out.
I then lowered the body to sit on the floor.
I would NOT recommend trying to work under the lifted body.

If you are planning on an increase in hp, I would recommend replacing the original wood body blocks with stainless steel blocks. Get the dimensions from the marked original wood blocks. Use grade 8 or 9 bolts and Marsden nuts in any case.

05-08-2024, 09:57 PM	#8
Pete BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: Wa. Posts: 5,423	Re: Lifting 30 Tudor body Taking the body off of a 2 door model A is relatively easy job from the top. From a safety standpoint, I would not recommend doing it from the bottom. (jacks and cribbing) The first thing you will need is a SAFE point to hang a chain hoist. If you have changed engines with the hoist then you should be ok doing a body. I used 2 padded straps rated at 1000 lb. single. I rigged through the windows. One near the windshield and one near the back of the back side windows. (be sure to CLOSELY inspect the straps for frays, cuts and worn spots before using) I took a short trial lift to determine the balance point, then rigged a small strap at each end to keep the big ones in place. After clearing all of the various wires, steering and other "stuff", I picked the body up about 4 inches. I removed the bolts and wood blocks, (nuts removed previously) MARKING EACH FOR LOCATION. I then lifted the body high enough to roll the chassis out. I then lowered the body to sit on the floor. I would NOT recommend trying to work under the lifted body. If you are planning on an increase in hp, I would recommend replacing the original wood body blocks with stainless steel blocks. Get the dimensions from the marked original wood blocks. Use grade 8 or 9 bolts and Marsden nuts in any case.